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Old 03-28-2013 | 02:02 PM
  #3421  
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I've got two weeks before outdoor season starts so I've got my fingers crossed.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 04:14 PM
  #3422  
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So are you guys telling me there is,going to be B5? Just order a B4.2
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Old 03-28-2013 | 04:23 PM
  #3423  
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Originally Posted by MrGidi123
So are you guys telling me there is,going to be B5? Just order a B4.2
We where just screwing around
The short shocks placed in the front tower, fiberglass shock towers and gold aluminum chassis was the original RC10
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Old 03-28-2013 | 04:25 PM
  #3424  
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Uh-oh...
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Old 03-28-2013 | 04:27 PM
  #3425  
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Oh lol oops,


Anyway i have quick question
I'm building the B4.2 the question is should i do the shaved u-brace? What will be the difference?
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Old 03-28-2013 | 05:16 PM
  #3426  
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Originally Posted by Eli
I seem to bother you for some reason. Everyone was talking about transponders and it was off topic, im sure there is a thread about these concerns.

I guess there isnt much to talk about these days.

I really like the new ae machined pistons.

The gold x gear spring i find IS softer then an ae white. I know there was a question about that earlier.
Sorry man, you don't bother me at all. I just didn't know what was wrong with the topic we were on, but I do agree that there are better places for transponder discussions

I have both the AE 1.4 tapered pistons and the Avid 2x1.6 / 2x1.1 that I will be trying tomorrow. Ill report my findings
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Old 03-28-2013 | 05:18 PM
  #3427  
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Got my Yaiba stuff tonight, man it's so sexy

Definetly recommend, will let u know how it performs on the track later this weekend.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 05:29 PM
  #3428  
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing
Got my Yaiba stuff tonight, man it's so sexy

Definetly recommend, will let u know how it performs on the track later this weekend.
This post is worthless without pics
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Old 03-28-2013 | 06:53 PM
  #3429  
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Originally Posted by dominick i.
the reedy wolfpack batteries are excellent. i use em in both 17.5 and mod.

no issues
17.5 Really? you don't miss the 60C punch with 17.5?

-kyri
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:01 PM
  #3430  
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Hey guys, I'm currently in the middle of my build and I'm to the step where I've just installed the rear ballast weight. My question is: Do i stick this down somehow? Or will it get secured somehow when I put the transmission piece in?
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:03 PM
  #3431  
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Originally Posted by beradical
Hey guys, I'm currently in the middle of my build and I'm to the step where I've just installed the rear ballast weight. My question is: Do i stick this down somehow? Or will it get secured somehow when I put the transmission piece in?
It'll stay in there with no tape, etc.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:12 PM
  #3432  
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Originally Posted by beradical
Hey guys, I'm currently in the middle of my build and I'm to the step where I've just installed the rear ballast weight. My question is: Do i stick this down somehow? Or will it get secured somehow when I put the transmission piece in?
it wont go anywhere as long as the tranny and hinge pin mount are in place.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:14 PM
  #3433  
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Thanks for the quick responses, folks.

Moving on!
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:19 PM
  #3434  
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are the 3x1.4's more pack than the 1.6's? I know they have more low speed dampening, but I am concerned with pack on my track.
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Old 03-28-2013 | 07:32 PM
  #3435  
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Originally Posted by Tradin Paint
Sorry man, you don't bother me at all. I just didn't know what was wrong with the topic we were on, but I do agree that there are better places for transponder discussions

I have both the AE 1.4 tapered pistons and the Avid 2x1.6 / 2x1.1 that I will be trying tomorrow. Ill report my findings
Ok cool, its just between this forum and another forum i frequent all i have been hearing about is transponder talk due to different updates and this and that and i don't blame anyone for asking i would want to know as well but it seems every 2-3 pages it gets brought up where a little bit of searching would answer everyones questions.

Anyhow for your piston testing, if you have time i would try each one front and rear with different oils assuming you have your springs to your liking and take note of what does what then maybe try the 2+2 in the front with the 3 hole in the rear depending on your track. My track has large jumps and is lower bite then say wcrc or ocrc and i always find my front shock package requires less low speed dampening to get the weight to transfer up front for the amount of steering i want and ended up originally with the 1.4x3 tapered up front with 32 and the 2x1.6 tapered in the rear with 30 with the green/white springs. I tried going up even higher to get a different feel 35/32, but then the front wouldn't hardly dive into a few of our sharp turns resulting in a push but then i liked how the rear felt so i ended at 32/32 but since then i ended up changing to a super soft barcode with closed cell foam compared to my usual gold barcode front with a 3/4 rear open cell and i liked the kyosho pink up front to get the car to transfer even more with the harder foam (i didnt try an AE black, i may do that next). I've been running green pressure points in the rear and heard the green barcodes have great steering so started dabbling with those since i go back and forth with gold and green rear tires. I know that may seem weird to run a super soft tire where a clay tire can work but my track isnt 100% clay, more like 65% if i were to guess. I can get both tires to work but im a lot more locked in with the super soft tires just i have to sauce my front tires as well as saucing my rear tires to overcome the amount of rear bite they generate. Sorry for the ramble but feel its important to describe the track and conditions with tires when giving my results on shock packages.
Note: when running super soft tires at my track (sdrc in san diego) it feels like the track is a med-high bite instead of a medium to medium low-bite with clay tires and inconsistent unless you use knarly sauce but i try not to do that because it seems it ends up changing the tires to super softs eventually and you end up with a tire that took a while to get where it is and can be different from run to run where i can just glue up a set of green barcodes or pressure points and within two battery packs on the track they are ready to go and consistent.

Im basically running hartsons set-up with the above mentioned oil/spring/piston set-up and green pressure points and barcodes. It was good enough to TQ and win last night with great consistency around the whole track.
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