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Old 04-09-2013 | 02:14 PM
  #3886  
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Originally Posted by bilster44
This is the "cat's ass" right there for sure!
Agreed!!!

Originally Posted by Cain
from what I can tell they are velvet shocks, came with the vehicle.
Well the only true way to know anything would be to take them apart and measure what you have and double check everything. because Kyosho has several shafts they use and AE has atleast 3 ava seperate from the kit. Plus the million a/m ones.

#91305 21 x 3 TiN Shock Shaft
#91306 27.5 x 3 TiN Shock Shaft
#91307 35 x 3 TiN Shock Shaft

You might have the shafts for the truck who know's. I have seen a local buggy with 2 or three different brands of shocks on it at the same time so
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Old 04-09-2013 | 03:41 PM
  #3887  
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Originally Posted by shadow76
??? what is every body buying in springs soft med or hard i know pending on track but what seems to be more universal thanks
The primary driver in the car is the rear spring. The looser the track, the softer the spring you really need, starting at AE green rears. The more traction available in the rear, the stiffer spring you can run and the more steering you can achieve, especially on power. Generally speaking, you should run greens on a track that gets very loose, whites on tracks that hold at least medium grip, and you may find yourself running gray if you're on a very high bite well maintained track. I always keep green and white rears available.

After determining how stiff of a rear spring you can get away with, you will need to pick a front spring. In my opinion, this is primarily based on which rear spring you run and how much rear traction under deceleration you need. The stiffer REAR you run, the stiffer front you will need to run to keep traction when braking or general corner entry. If I run green rears, the softest spring I will run in the front is black. If I run white rears, the softest spring I will run in the front is green. If the track has a section where the car wants to become loose under deceleration or corner entry, I will try going one spring stiffer in the front before I go softer in the rear.

My starting point is black front green rear on a loose track. If I need more traction, I go to green fronts. If the car is really hooked up and wants to push on power, I will try my medium to high grip initial setup of green front, white rear. I generally don't go stiffer than green front. I will tend to go up a half weight or whole weight in oil in the front if the green front springs cause the car to get a little twitchy / over responsive in the front.

Wayne
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Old 04-09-2013 | 03:55 PM
  #3888  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
The primary driver in the car is the rear spring. The looser the track, the softer the spring you really need, starting at AE green rears. The more traction available in the rear, the stiffer spring you can run and the more steering you can achieve, especially on power. Generally speaking, you should run greens on a track that gets very loose, whites on tracks that hold at least medium grip, and you may find yourself running gray if you're on a very high bite well maintained track. I always keep green and white rears available.

After determining how stiff of a rear spring you can get away with, you will need to pick a front spring. In my opinion, this is primarily based on which rear spring you run and how much rear traction under deceleration you need. The stiffer REAR you run, the stiffer front you will need to run to keep traction when braking or general corner entry. If I run green rears, the softest spring I will run in the front is black. If I run white rears, the softest spring I will run in the front is green. If the track has a section where the car wants to become loose under deceleration or corner entry, I will try going one spring stiffer in the front before I go softer in the rear.

My starting point is black front green rear on a loose track. If I need more traction, I go to green fronts. If the car is really hooked up and wants to push on power, I will try my medium to high grip initial setup of green front, white rear. I generally don't go stiffer than green front. I will tend to go up a half weight or whole weight in oil in the front if the green front springs cause the car to get a little twitchy / over responsive in the front.

Wayne
thanks guys for the info so ill get the soft sets of springs
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Old 04-09-2013 | 05:10 PM
  #3889  
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For those running C hub/shaved U-brace, what would you say is best to try first with a low-medium grip track? No washers? 1mm washer?

Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2013 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I might try out our indoor track for the next few weeks. Or perhaps put LED's in my buggy so I can see it for night racing...... here is a panaramic pic of the indoor layout. The run counter clockwise. Notice the lovely car shattering bricks everywhere, lol. My b4 fear this track. Maifield and some other Phoenix sponsored guys came down last weekend to race.
so let me get this right....... you have this track within driving distance and you complain about your other one? You sir have lost ALL credibility
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Old 04-09-2013 | 05:37 PM
  #3891  
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The indoor track is nice. The are other reasons I race the outdoor track. Distance is not an issue
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Old 04-09-2013 | 05:40 PM
  #3892  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I might try out our indoor track for the next few weeks. Or perhaps put LED's in my buggy so I can see it for night racing...... here is a panaramic pic of the indoor layout. The run counter clockwise. Notice the lovely car shattering bricks everywhere, lol. My b4 fear this track. Maifield and some other Phoenix sponsored guys came down last weekend to race.
I would give my left kidney for this track to be in Atlanta.
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Old 04-09-2013 | 05:43 PM
  #3893  
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Now you all are just making me feel bad lol
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Old 04-09-2013 | 06:09 PM
  #3894  
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Originally Posted by snowman_evil
For those running C hub/shaved U-brace, what would you say is best to try first with a low-medium grip track? No washers? 1mm washer?
Thanks!
It's more a preference thing in my opinion. Try them all. Start with big changes at first so you can see what effect it'll have.

Originally Posted by Bob Barry
so let me get this right....... you have this track within driving distance and you complain about your other one? You sir have lost ALL credibility
Originally Posted by Jmuck69
I would give my left kidney for this track to be in Atlanta.
These x2

I'd have a permanent pit there...
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Old 04-09-2013 | 06:43 PM
  #3895  
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Ok thanks!!

+1 that track looks unreal!!
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Old 04-09-2013 | 07:17 PM
  #3896  
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yeah, I am going to try and race there more often. That track would be great in making me a better driver. always technical and is harder than it looks. Plus a consistent surface all night for tuning.
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Old 04-09-2013 | 08:25 PM
  #3897  
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Can anyone tell me what the AKA super soft would compare to in other brands? vs Proline M4, Panther Super soft, Hot Bodies Super soft etc?

I've been told AKA and panther are made in the same factory and are very close to the same compounds.

Any info would be great! Thanks!
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Old 04-09-2013 | 09:42 PM
  #3898  
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If there was a reason to move to Tucson, Competition would be it.
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Old 04-09-2013 | 10:05 PM
  #3899  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yeah, I am going to try and race there more often. That track would be great in making me a better driver. always technical and is harder than it looks. Plus a consistent surface all night for tuning.
You only get better with practice, but also the pic you chose did make all of us envious because it does look excellent.
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Old 04-10-2013 | 04:37 AM
  #3900  
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Originally Posted by snowman_evil
For those running C hub/shaved U-brace, what would you say is best to try first with a low-medium grip track? No washers? 1mm washer?

Thanks!
I am running on a Med traction indoor track and run 3 Washers with shaved, and 1 washer with unshaved. They are both the same height.
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