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-   -   Team Associated B4.2 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/694124-team-associated-b4-2-thread.html)

Jake S 04-06-2013 01:02 PM


Originally Posted by Eli (Post 12016559)
Well the factory-one ultra shock bushings just came available and are made in the USA! http://www.factoryone-rc.com/

looks good!

http://img803.imageshack.us/img803/2...0406145408.jpg

got a better picture.

brian6674 04-06-2013 05:33 PM

I was at the track today and listened in on someone explain the “Grind and C Hub” Mod. I looked it up on this tred, found on the first page!!! I am about to start building my B4.2. Is this an all around mod, or only for certain track types? I will be racing on a medium traction clay track. Would it be recommended to do the mod during the build, or try stock first?

3srcracing 04-06-2013 05:44 PM

Man tried a 9.5 today, I'm hooked lol..

Questions, I have recently (all today) broke ball studs on the back right rear ballstud broke. Anyone else had this happen before?

shagnat 04-06-2013 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by 3srcracing (Post 12017216)
Man tried a 9.5 today, I'm hooked lol..

Questions, I have recently (all today) broke ball studs on the back right rear ballstud broke. Anyone else had this happen before?

I haven't had a ball stud break yet, and I'm a pitiful driver. I don't know if any stronger replacements except for titanium which are prohibitively expensive ($50ish)

shagnat 04-06-2013 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by brian6674 (Post 12017194)
I was at the track today and listened in on someone explain the “Grind and C Hub” Mod. I looked it up on this tred, found on the first page!!! I am about to start building my B4.2. Is this an all around mod, or only for certain track types? I will be racing on a medium traction clay track. Would it be recommended to do the mod during the build, or try stock first?

It's a toss up. Doing it before you build it would save a little time. I'd say if you're an experienced racer, then go for the mod first. If you're a weekend warrior and a novice type racer, don't bother. Just MHO.

Matt Trimmings 04-06-2013 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by brian6674 (Post 12017194)
I was at the track today and listened in on someone explain the “Grind and C Hub” Mod. I looked it up on this tred, found on the first page!!! I am about to start building my B4.2. Is this an all around mod, or only for certain track types? I will be racing on a medium traction clay track. Would it be recommended to do the mod during the build, or try stock first?

IMO it is better suited to higher bite clay tracks but I would say to try it yourself and get an opinion on it wherever you race.

Wild Cherry 04-06-2013 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by brian6674 (Post 12017194)
I was at the track today and listened in on someone explain the “Grind and C Hub” Mod. I looked it up on this tred, found on the first page!!! I am about to start building my B4.2. Is this an all around mod, or only for certain track types? I will be racing on a medium traction clay track. Would it be recommended to do the mod during the build, or try stock first?

The grind is for shaving down the .060 stump flush on the chassis U brace where the ball studs are mounted .

Recommend to do when you use the Chub ..


The part makes for less chassis roll and adds rear stability.

Not just for high traction, can be use on med or even less ....

The mod is very useful tuning tool , should try it and have in the pit box just in case .

SAGISI 04-06-2013 09:33 PM


Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me (Post 12014741)
What are you guys doing for your shocks as far as internal limiters?

3 limiter front (20.3mm of exposed shaft)

2 limiter rear (26mm of exposed shaft)

3srcracing 04-06-2013 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by Jake S (Post 12016656)

Looks good man, but you have your wing spacers on wrong, they are suppose to go underneath the wing not on top..

Jake S 04-06-2013 10:27 PM


Originally Posted by 3srcracing (Post 12017849)
Looks good man, but you have your wing spacers on wrong, they are suppose to go underneath the wing not on top..

lol.

running zero deg wing, with another wing spacer under it, top is to spread pressure of the wing bolts so wings last longer.

wing spacer angled forward (6 deg) wing spacer removed under (3 deg) wing spacer angled backwards (0 deg)

Catch22racing 04-07-2013 05:33 AM

Been slow making progress but I got the chassis tub ready for building yesterday

From the box
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...4-2/null-3.jpg

After I got done with it
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1.../B4-2/null.jpg

Cridd 04-07-2013 08:49 AM


Originally Posted by Catch22racing (Post 12018343)
Been slow making progress but I got the chassis tub ready for building yesterday

From the box
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...4-2/null-3.jpg

After I got done with it
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1.../B4-2/null.jpg

Nice clean up

Bob Barry 04-07-2013 09:55 AM

LOOOSEY LOOOOSEY!!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFnQGx5KCfE

tedstryker 04-07-2013 10:05 AM


Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 12018960)

what's tire of choice....?

Bob Barry 04-07-2013 10:49 AM


Originally Posted by tedstryker (Post 12018983)
what's tire of choice....?

hard to say just yet but M3/M4 holeshots or something near that. That track was underwater Friday... it's amazing that it looked as good as it did!

I tried Green Hybrids, AKA Impacts, and M3 holeshots but since track time was limited and conditions were drastically different each attempt, it was tough to say one was better than the other. I think Flipouts, 3D's, Tasers, etc will all work. You just have to stay on top of it because the track is totally different in the morning, noon, and evening


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