Sounds like its normal to be really tight... seems wierd that would be desired but I have a spare so Ill just move on :)

Do you guys clean your bearings before installing in offroad or just run them the way they came?

Thanks!

I had the same issue when I first built the transmission. It was tight and binding when I tried to spin the outdrives by hand. I just had to rebuild it. Found out a few things weren't aligned and fully seated. Just follow the directions exactly and make sure everything (bearing, shafts, etc.) is aligned and in place.

Make sure the spur gear side top shaft bearing seats all the way. That sucker will cause some headaches if you fail to seat it fully.

I just put them in and run them. When they get gritty, I just replace. At $1 per bearing, it is really not worth the effort to remove the shields, clean them and relube/grease. I recently had a gritty bearing. And the LHS didnt have any in stock. So i pulled off the shield, cleaned the bearing and lubed it. After a couple runs it was gritty again. In my experience, once the bearing is gritty, just replace it. unless you can t replace it, like what happened to me.

Cool thanks!

No, it is NOT normal for the gear boxes to be tight or bound up after assembly. The "anal ones" will blow the grease out of the inner bearings before installing them...I used to do this myself...trying to ditch all that "analniss" though these days.

I think there is some mis information here

The A hub and C hub have the same hole pattern, difference is the C hub is 2 mm lower, at the ball stud mounting location, then the a, this is why you have to shave the rear brace 2 mm to get the links flat, unless you raise the inside ball studs with washers.

This is why avid makes the carbon piece that carries the and c in the same piece.

Common starting point with a c hub is 1mm washer under the inside ball stud

[QUOTE=gguertin145;12030935

Do you guys clean your bearings before installing in offroad or just run them the way they came?

Thanks![/QUOTE]

I clean my bearings , and check if bad . Can get much longer life if you do .
I have been using the same Avid bearings for almost a year now & they are smooth as new ...

Adding spacers to the inner link lowers roll center. Period. Please stop spreading misinformation and over-generalizing. Not to mention putting people down when they disagree with you. Jackass.

Only trying to share how to use , not bad info ....

I will ignore you now ...TY

Not normal.

I was thinking the same

Wipe and install

/agreed

/agree

I would just start over. Empty the case wipe everything down and start over because I just built mine last night and its butter. But I am super careful when building, I take my time because it saves you time at the track.

Lol! Take that Jack!

Daniel, how did you do at your race over the weekend with the b4?

The buggy felt good, but am going back to the traditional electronics layout. Inline setup looks dialed but is less consistent on the looser tracks. Will be messing with the machined pistons this weekend ;)

Edit: his ignore list must be endless.

lol, I mounted my centerline high. And my body hit the caps on the esc, so I was like, screw that. And put it back to its normal spot. My buggy actually felt really good. We went to night racing so the track was more consistent and I could work on my line and less on fighting the car. Now if only I could see my car....... lol. I am trying a Flo paint job this week. I am also going to ask the RD if we can put white stripes on the top of some of the further jumps. I was just guessing where the jumps were, lol. But the car felt great. I was on the verge of selling it, but I think I will keep it. I like the way the car handles. I think I have just been fighting the track for the last 3 months.

With all of my experience lowering the inside ball stud frees the car up in the corners by letting it not lean as far since the roll center was raised.

I prefer what i am running which is A hubs (exotek atm) in the B hole and #1 hole on a un-shaved brace with 2mm spacing. I run on a medium and sometimes medium to high bite track and unless i do a inline electronic layout with the esc up high then i will try the c hubs, but for now i cant be more happier with the hartson/numan set-up with the K springs.

Edit: The only difference between Hartsons set-up and mine is i am running green JC tires, pressure point rear, barcode front and i am running the AE machined tapered pistons, 2x1.6 rear and 3x1.4 front with 32.5w all around, everything else is the same as far as i know, maybe a very slight battery placement difference.