That track is stunning, I'd love to have that up here in Canada

This is the current layout (due to change very soon) at the local track I race at :D

nice, but you dont have nearly enough bricks, lol. That is anything but flat.

+100 :batman:

Wildcat, we are blessed to have year round racing here in AZ. I also seem to prefer our outdoor tracks more, but since Glitch and SRS are doing rebuilds I will have to settle for COMP or W3.

Yeah, I want to check out W3. I hope to make it out this summer. What tires are you guy running out there? I heard slicks might be in the future. And yeah, but i heard glitch is almost open again. I liked racing there when it was a josh's house. It was a pretty chill group. The run what you brung buggy class was to my liking.

I just started building my new .2 kit and have found the diff halves are extremely tight... so tight that the bearing feels gritty after installing.

Is there a trick you guys are using when building this like sanding or filing a section? Any advice on this?

On an unshaved brace, I can fit 3 .030 washers next to the stand off and squeeze both the washers and stand off with my calipers and they're the same height. I could even easily slide one washer out. What I'm trying to say is it's commonly reported that the standoff is 2 washers high, but in reality, every one I've measured was 3 washers high, so I think there is some misinformation out there. I think you're running a slightly lower roll center with a unshaved brace than you realize.

Wayne

I dont fully understand the issue. The bearing are tight in the diff case? Yes, mine are very tight. never been an issue. When you screw the diff together its tight on the diff and binding? Just loosen the screw 1/4 - 1/2 turn and make sure you use locktite.

no the bearings are just extremely tight in the case like you said at first. So tight that when spinning the bearing it seems gritty on a brand new kit.

When using the C-hub & a shaved U brace use no spacers under the inside ball stud .

Some free up the rear a little and add 1 x .030 under the inside ball stud.


When using the unshaven brace ?

Most use 2 x.030 spacers under the inside ball stud & use the A hub , then they remove one spacer to free up the rear a bit if needed ...

It will be the same chill group of racers at the new places. Unfortunately he is still in the permit process. So it will be atleast a couple of months before the new one is up again. I have not been to W3 yet, but we are planning a trip 2 weekends from now.

Isn't that conflicting? With shaved you're saying to raise ball stud to free up the rear and to free up the car with A-hub/not shaved you're saying the opposite. As long as your roll center isn't way off wouldn't raising the inner link free it up on corner entry/ lock in later regardless?

weird. Make sure you didnt dent the bearing shield when installing. My bearings are so tight, then when the need replacing, I just get a new diff case, lol. Luckily the diff bearings seem to last a long time.

Daniel , yes does sound a bit confusing ..;)

Learn more about raising & lowering the roll center and it will make more sense ...
Raising the roll center will lower traction..

The C-Hub already has the roll center lowered , adding more spacers raises & makes less grip .



The A-Hub will bring more grip as you raise the inside ball stud , feels a lot like using a longer link .