Nope, in Perth here in Western Australia we run on a sugared track. When I saw the pics of the Cactus classic I thought...Hey that look just like our surface and from all the descriptions it sounds very similar.

We dissolve the sugar first though and then water it into the track. Penetrates the track better and you also use less of it.

This man is on the money! I run the same, and the buggy was dialed this weekend. My driving could have used a bit of help. I was stuck in 4WD mode, so 2WD suffered.

Anyone?

How are you guys liking the tapered AE pistons? I was going to try a set, but $20 at the LHS seemed a bit steep.

Still running the 1.6, or going smaller?

That sounds fine for a start. That's basically the starting setup that is recommended in the bb instructions.

The BB instructions have a starting suggestion and is very close.
Start there and tune to you liking.

What springs come in the kit? Thank you in advance.

White rears,Black fronts

So, I think i asked a few months ago, but I thought i would revisit it. When are ribbed tires needing to be replaced? I was talking to a sponsored guy and asking about proline scrubs vs ribs on out local track. The scrubs work great on my kids tlr22, so I thought my b4 might benefit. When I asked him about the tires, he asked me if my current tires were shot and suggested that any new tire might work better. So I cleaned up my groovies and took a good hard look at them. the center 2 ribs still look "squarish", the outside and inside ribs look "roundish". Our track is not really very hard on tires and we tend to get solid life out of them. Rear can last 2-3 months racing once a week. So how often do you replace your ribs? I race on a budget, so I like to get as much life out of tires as I can.

Are you happy with the steering? If so, don't worry about it. Ribs last forever compared to something like a Taper Pin/Barcode.

Well that is the thing, I am not happy with it. I have done a few things like moving the shorty around, removing ball studs in the front and trying to free the rear up, but I feel that I need more brake than I want in the 180's. It is fine in the 90's and sweepers. Mainly, I really want more from the car in the 180's. I have had this fronts for about 4 months racing once a week on wet spongy clay. A few locals say that ribs are "grabby" and thus inconsistent. I know the 22 likes the suburbs better and they really smooth out the buggy. But the 22 is not a b4. An AKA sponsored guy often runs rebars up front and impact in the rear. It seems to me that the suburb and rebar have that outside "sharp" rib to bite in. I have only ever used ribs until recently. Not overly comfortable with all these new fangled front tires, lol. I plan to pick up the suburbs for the front and run the holeshot 2.0s in the rear. Both in m3 compound. I am still undecided on the foams. Kinda wanna try the AKA reds in the rear and AKA reds / 3/4 rear open cells in the front.


@topshotta Also, I just noticed your sig, +1. Mostly in texas though, lol.

I typically run Barcodes/Tapers and cut off the rib on the outside edge. I find it makes the car less grabby, and more consistent (but I also run indoors). What are the other B4 guys running? Depending on how loamy your track is, I would think that ribbed tires would work. With ribs, the foams will die long before the tired does.

Most of the locals run rips or groovies. But the faster tire sponsored guys run rebars, suburbs and that style of tire. The track changes a lot. The tire you run in the first heat might not be the main tire. I guess I really want a main tire. For the mains, the track is normally not very loamy and traction comes way up. Most of the time 13.5 is run first, so we have a freshly watered and blown off track, so I would not say it is very loamy normally. In fact some of the losi guys switch to square fuzzies for the main because the holeshots "fold over" too much. Anyway, thanks for the info. I think I will just get the suburbs and a set of red aka front foams to try out.

try blue barcode fronts with 3/4 rear foam in them. If your track layout has mostly high speed turns, use closed cell front foam.

Never thought i liked tapered pistons before in the v2 shocks but in these big bores the AE machined tapered pistons work awesome!
On my medium bite large indoor track with about a 70% clay content i am running the green/white ae springs 32/30 ae oil 3 hole 1.4 pistons up front and the 2x1.6 in the rear. The rest of my car is pretty much identical to Steven Hartsons setup as far as i know except servo, i am running the airtronics94930 servo with my m12

I came to this conclusion of piston set-up after running first the 1.4x3hole front and rear then noting how my car felt then running the 2x1.6 front and rear and noting how it felt.

Seemed the 3 hole didnt give me enough pack for our large jumps but then the 2 hole 1.6's felt too stiff and not quite balanced in the front so i put the 3 hole pistons in the front and my car came to life, not that it was bad before but i felt more connected and had better steering since my front end dove into the corners more consistent. On a higher bite track it may not be ideal, but time will tell on that one.

Also ran green pressure points in the back with gold barcodes front a few days after running the above set-up and i was amazed how well they work and with the white sticky kicks im not getting excessive wear either. The track wasn't dry either and i usually wouldnt run a green compound unless the track was dry but i was just as fast if not faster with the green pressure points then my v1 gold barcodes. If the track was dry they may have got eaten up fast but thats the trade off.

The pressure points are very smooth and consistent, broke in pretty quickly as well. I ran a medium insert. The carcass fits tight around the foam compared to some super soft tires which most likely helps keep them feeling smooth and not edgy around the track.

Im guessing these feel similar to the Ions that everyone is raving about but not certain since i havent tried a pair.