Question:

How much harder is a Gold JC Tire Compared to a Green JC Tire?

Or are they both for completely different surfaces?

Everyone who runs Gold says they last forever, and Green guys say they dont last long

Anyway, a visual is always nice. Here are 3 pics of the same tire. worn out or not?

to me it looks like the 3rd rib from the left has lost 1 of its edges.

http://imageshack.us/a/img20/9297/tire2c.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/1162/tire3e.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img832/1256/tirej.jpg

Were the 1.6's the new machined ones from AE? Did you try the 1.3 x4 for the pack and slow speed dampening. Did you try the 1.6s up from with 30/30 oil? That would have taken away some of the pack.

I plan on running ribbed tires on the front.
I can understand they not hooking up on the indoor tracks. But I'll be outdoor.
Indoors I think front suburbs would be better, but I hear the scrubs are good too.

What do i need to put the vts clutch on my car? I have the v2 on it now.

Are most people using the stock plastic servo horn or going to aluminum? If so whats the best aluminum one to go with for a futaba horn? Thanks.

Back in the day with ribbed tires once the ribs went from "sharp" to rounded it was time to replace them. But then again it always comes down to driver descreation

a vts and maybe the clear gear cover. check the part number on the gear cover for the b4.2. But i thought the clear cover was needed.

I use the plastic one. And have yet to break it. And i crash a lot.

Hitec and Losi make good aluminum servo horns.

Gold is a lot harder and has a different feel at my track. My track is fairly unique with its mixtures of top soil and various types of clay. Some people at my track only run super soft type tires. Depending on how long the track has been in for depicts which tire i will choose. When the track is fairly new and hasn't developed a really hard and smooth surface i will run a gold tire (v1 barcode) that is freshly broken in so it can dig in and also not clog up as easily. The track is usually very very moist during this stage of the life of the layout. In about 2 weeks after the layout has been in a nice blue/black groove can be noticed in the groove, at this time i can run either a green tire for insane traction or a gold tire for about the same amount of grip but a tad free'd up in the corners. I will usually stick with a gold tire because i can usually run faster lap times with it. In this case i wanted to try these green pressure points and my track is at that 2 week mark so i decided to give them a whirl and it went really well. I was able to run the same fast lap as i was with gold barcodes. I believe the reason for this is due to the low and consistent tread design. As far as life expectancy depends on how dry my track is, the more dry the greater the tire wear. On average i will guess i can get a gold tire to last probably 5-10 times longer (i know thats a huge window). I will take a guess that i will get about 7-8 race days out of these green barcodes judging on how much wear they have with 3 full packs on them maybe even longer. Lately the track conditions and prep has been the best it has ever been since OCRC has let us use their track building equipment. (Thank you Robert Black). We had an out of towner come race last wednesday and he ran panther slicks in our 2nd qualifier i heard and i think he ran a real good time with them but im pretty sure he did not run them in the main. The groove at sdrc is pretty wide since we have a lot of 4x4sc's and 8th scales run on the track and they use a lot of the track to get around
So to answer your question, green imo would typically be ran on a track that doesn't have a very very high clay content and/or if it is ran on the dry side, the blue compound (soft) could also maybe be a option in these conditions.
In my case with our clay content both compounds work well and the super softs are usually easier to get to work if your set-up isn't as perfect.
Golds will last a very long time unless you are using a real potent sauce during a dry-moist track condition.


Ya its lost some edge, not sure if i would say its worn out unless your car really pushes bad but i would run it if it were a club race.

yes the 1.6's were machined. Didn't have the 1.3x4 pistons. the only machined pistons i have are the ae 2x1.6 tapered, the ae 3x1.4 tapered and the avid 1.5x1.1 two plus two flat pistons. I tried the 1.4x3 pistons with 30 up front and it was too soft and with my findings with the 1.4x3's i skipped trying the 30 oil up front. I heard after my findings that with the tapered pistons 32/30 front and rear should be about right. I thought about trying 30/30 with the 1.6's but wanted to try the 3 hole with 32 since i had a feel for it already and i had a good feeling about them and i made the switch during my 2nd heat during one of my last club races.

Keep in mind the losi is threaded for 3mm and the b4 used 4-40.

I assume the machined 1.6's felt much better than the stock 1.6s? I also think for my track the tapered piston would be very good. The track is not super smooth and with the weather, it can get a little lumpy. not a big deal at lower speeds, but it can be hard to keep up high speeds and keep the rear planted.

man they aren't even broken in yet

lol, those ribs have gone through 2 sets of rear so far, lol. but yeah I think they were gone per say. I have been chasing steering, so thought that might be the cause.