Think of springs and oil this way. Springs control how far it will dive, squat, and roll. Oil will control how fast this happens.

I still can not figure out though, how droop has any effect on ride height, unless you are setting ride height with the droop screw and I wouldn't think this is the case?

Anyone use a droop guage like Xrays to measure droop. I don't feel like measing from center of shock ends is that accurate. Not to mention in order to get the correct droop setting that someone else is running, you have to move your shocks to their locations to get the measurement correct. Seams like a PITA. I move my shocks on the tower depending on jumps, whoops, and track bite. I'd like to have something more standardized like Xray does it. Anyone else feel this way?

Trying 40 AE 8 X 1.4 Green Front / 32.5 AE 8 X 1.4 Orange Rear this weekend. I also just put in the Tekin PRO4 HD 4300, and Oh yeah this thing RIPS! I'm loving the extra grunt on the bottom that the 4 pole provides. Anyone running this motor with a 17 tooth pinion on a medium to large track?

IMO the only way to set droop,and the easiest. :nod:

Yea I really like the 4300 too. I'm using 16t right now, but it could do 17 no problem. Seems like the best setup is to gear to whatever you need for top speed, then use the current limiter to keep temps down.

Droop has no affect on static ride height.

Correct, guess I'm misunderstanding the previous post some how.

I guess in an EXTEME case your could lower your car with the droop screws.. but I cant imagine that would handle very well.

True. Too bad nothing is static in Rc racing.

Dropping the car 6" and checking ride ht will not get an accurate reading using a high pack damper setup.

More droop gives the shocks and suspension more travel to absorb hits. Droop will effect your ride ht., if you set ride ht. by the 6" drop test.

Generally, I literally drive up and down the straight with my head as close to the ground as possible to double check what my cars height looks like, and what it's weight transfer looks like. I've set my car wrong many times.

Most of the time I count turns of preload. I add or remove preload based on how the car drives. Then I record turns of shock preload, not mm ground clearance. If the car needs lowered, I lower it. I don't bother measuring.

I will have to disagree on that one. Your shocks should come back to the same place every time no matter how high you drop the car or how much droop you have in the car.

Lol, no disrespect intended but now all I can see is Will riding the fork truck looking for the red neck monitor. :D

Ok, so I got my hotlapsrc air dams in. First impression is wow!! These things are durable, flexible and a great fit.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4872-image.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4873-image.jpg

He's even gone as far to make them a tad wider so they go over the chassis just a bit to make them a lil more ridged, not like this material needs it. I wanted to show you how to install them with ease. I place it on then start the 4 screws closest to chassis, only screwing in about 3 turns or so, then the outer 2. Don't be alarmed as some screws might be at an angle. That's why we just get them started as shown.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4874-image.jpg
Then I tighten the 2 inside ones first, then the 2 outside inner ones, then the 2 outside outer ones on the nerd bars. It's a good idea to thread them in 95% of they way, then go back and tighten them the rest of the way. This way if needs to me moved its not locked in, and has some wiggle room. DO NOT CRANK DOWN, no need for that

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4875-image.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4876-image.jpg

It's pretty easy. Just work them equally. I've heard people I having trouble, and its because they tighten one, then go to the next. Take your time and avoid a headache. After your done you'll have awesome, durable air dams they look sweet!!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4877-image.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...4878-image.jpg
Enjoy.

Sorry bout the huge pics. Did this on my iPad

Droop affects turns and many other aspects of handling but for the turning that was being referanced...
Going into a right hand turn with full droop the right side's suspension will extend further allowing the chassis to roll further than if droop were limited.
If limited, the wheels will want to stay on the ground (unless you have rolled) so the inside not being able to extend as far reduces the roll angle.
Bump handling is sacrificed for turning.

Front to rear, limiting front will reduce weight transfer to the rear accelerating and reducing droop in the rear reduces dive under braking.

Sorry, what I'm saying is, when you increase droop, your ride height will change a bit due to your arms hitting the ground sooner now, starting to slow down the car as it settles to its ride height. If you take out droop the cassis will be closer to the ground when the wheels hit so the car can settle a little lower. i notice this after i adjust droop and reset my ride height. Hope I'm making sense. Lol......and FYI I do not adjust ride height with droop lol. I do adjust my droop with hudy blocks and guage, and always set ride height after

i should of read this before I wrote. This is what I'm trying to say. Sorry for the confusion and droop debate I started hahahaha