Odin544

iTrader: (93)

Xray has posted their solutions to the issues people have had. Scroll to the bottom.
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...rade%20Package

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

I can admit I didn't grease mine and sure enough it popped out. I remember forgetting to grease it during the build. Funny how following instructions seems to solve most issues...

I bet Exotek or someone comes out with blinged out aluminum ones though.

Odin544

iTrader: (93)

I agree. I was surprised when I built the first one (a friends) that they were plastic. If a metal one comes out I think I would get them just for piece of mind. I ordered a bunch of little things for mine and am in the process of building it now. Looking forward to running it, but that wont be for a month or so.

CarlCrocco

iTrader: (92)

I use the barrels and pins from the durango dex410. The pins have a flat spot and a set screw. They won't come out.

You can also use the dex410 o rings from the big bore shocks to prevent the shocks from leaking.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the tip! I'll have to pick up some of those.

AlekB

I'll try an extra o-ring there, thanks! Nice tip, the out drives are $37 in the lhs here in Norway, so looking at 1/4 of a new car in spare parts already. Considering.....

poorboy racing

iTrader: (1)

just broke my outdrive on the rear diff ....

kman16jr

iTrader: (56)

did you have limiters in the shock retainer to decrease uptravel?

Kakenballs

iTrader: (11)

just got a tamiya trf502x & im really kicking myself for not buying the xray...... the real difference its how easy the parts are to go for the xray. both have great quality but support on parts xray is everywhere not so with the tamiya. so you maybe looking at a new xray owner very soon.

Xyzzy

iTrader: (32)

I haven't had a chance to run mine yet but I did open one of the diffs to check the oil level and it was low. I don't have a before/after weight for the gears but your assumption that they absorb oil seems possible, although it is something that seems odd.

That said, I'm going to just throw in NT1 metal gears and pins and call it a done deal. I know they will work and there won't be any weirdness with them.

I imagine there is a good reason why XRAY would go to the effort to use composite gears but after thinking about it for a real long time the little engineer in me isn't able to come up with a compelling reason.

I'm assuming "better dynamic performance" means "lighter rotating weight". If so, we are not talking about much given the weight of the drive train, wheels and tires. My only concern might be where the new weak link in the system will be. Hopefully proper adjustment of the slipper clutch will mitigate that.

PS - If anyone decides to produce heavy-duty CVD caps I'll be first in line to buy them.

Theroc

iTrader: (5)

Dont know if it will hold but Im giving it a try. Wil report after the weekend. Its a snug fit over the plastic cover. I put CA glue to help hold it in place.

Part # is on the tag.

doorz

iTrader: (2)

I did the same thing using assc collars from the 44,,then held the soldering iron on the collar for a little bit,,seems to have seated nicely,,will be trying tomorrow,,

Someone will bring out ally ones,,

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

Another method & might be less expensive I did this fix on my tamiya off road
cut some heatshrink place it over the cap I used a thicker shrink & never had an issue afterwards.
I have not had any issue so far but this is what I would of done

j0pp3

Broke the front tower today and not a single seller seem to have it in stock in my country

The car runs like a dream though (when it's not broken). Seven packs through now. Still looks new underneath since I'm running on carpet.

BentKa

I have a few brand new spare sets of front & rear towers if you want a set

PM me for a low price including shipping to you.

Bent