JAE

iTrader: (30)

Only thing i'm worried about is in a spec 13.5t class, is if this is going to create drag and slow the buggy down.

Pville Stig

iTrader: (4)

There was no noticeable change in straight line speed or any performance drop off when i changed from the slipper to the gear diff. The car is so good out of the box that it takes alot of guys that are not very skilled and makes them faster quickly (Me).

If you haven't driven one of these yet you are in for a very pleasant surprise compared to the XB2. Steering and grip for days.....

JAE

iTrader: (30)

I've used this car a handful of times on race days as a second class just to have something to do between heats. Never changed the setup until recently. I used to have more grip with my laydown xb2, before medium parts, plus the 2x2 pistion with shock rebound setup. Now, I'm about on par, so look forward to the adjustments.

BiLL77

iTrader: (4)

Just ordered my XB4 cant wait to race this car.

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

you can use the graphite ones, or the hardened alum, right now im using graphite, but im ordering the hardened alum.

yeah, but honestly the xb4 requires less than the xb2 IMO. Here's what I have for the xb4...

- center diff
- steel diff gears
- hardened alum diff pins
- floating servo mount
- alum steering plate
- alum servo horn
- alum rear hubs
- alum drive cups
- 12* alum front c hubs
- TLR wingy


thats literally all you could ever need for the XB4. my xb2 has way more hops ups like all the alum roll centers and everything i have above plus more.

Djchow85

iTrader: (4)

many pages back you mentioned centre spur screws running against the motor mount, did you get it sorted? I ordered official screws for those areas and hoping that's the fix

I did notice in photos and in the manual that xray screws have a lower profile with their button heads.

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

yeah the xray screws seems a tad flatter but mine still rubbed!

i fixed it by switching out 1 of the screws that was rubbing worse, then i addedd a .2mm shim infront of the bearing to give me just a hair of room.

it doesn't rub any longer but its super close. they should have designed the motor mount with a flush mount screw to avoid that issue...but its not a big deal and theres multiple ways to fix it.

EJ2civic

Hey gang, Im new to the 4wd buggy class and would like to pick some of ya'lls brains if ya dont mind. Im getting ready to finish a '15 XB4 project Ive been working on. I race indoor carpet and would like to know what size pinion gear would be good to start with. The buggy is set up with the slipper clutch, 81T spur, rear motor and shorty pack. I have the factory basic carpet setup sheet so I just need a good start point on the pinion gear. Since I will be in Mod 4wd buggy, I have a Thunder Power 6.5T with a HW 120a V2.1 esc.

Thanx in advance...

JAE

iTrader: (30)

I'd like to know gearing for 13.5 as well. That should cover gearing ranges for 2 motors most use. thx all for the help!

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

17-20. i run 18 usually but i have a 5.5t motor

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

I replied to your original question a couple months ago...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14555867-post11075.html

...but have since changed my gearing to something more suitable for my particular 13.5T and track. I'm now running 27/81T for a 7.5:1 FDR. Some of the guys locally are running up to a 8:1 FDR. I'd play around with gearing anywhere from 7:1 to 8.5:1 FDR to see what suites you and your track the best.

Djchow85

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone ran without the top decks and also without the lower chassis braces at the same time

I'm guessing it would make the chassis flex too much?

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

there is no top decks on the 16' model. unless you mean the carbon braces that go on the plastic lower braces?

but yeah you wouldn't want to run no braces, that would be like driving a noodle around the track.

you can get medium flex lower braces if you desire more flex. i personally run the hard, with the front carbon brace on clay, and both carbon braces on carpet.

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

I run on small/medium sized outdoor tracks with:
Blinky:
13.5 - 26/75 (Adjust Motor Timing for track)
Mod:
5.5 - 18-19/81
6.5 - 21/81
7.5 - 22-23/81

All three motors can be tuned via esc timing for a specific track. For example, on a high bite indoor track that I sometimes visit, the 5.5 w/ 10-15 boost no turbo is wicked fast, and is very quick to spool up. On the medium sized outdoor/low traction tracks, the 6.5 or 7.5 has a more smoother bottom end, but with timing, is a missile on the straights.

I don't run the 6.5 much anymore for the tracks I have in my area.
High Traction - 5.5 is the best
Low/Medium Traction - 7.5 is the best.

IMHO, your testing may vary!

lyons238

iTrader: (15)

i find the same but i just run a 5.5t everywhere and adjust gearing/timing if necessary. i find its the best overall motor, for me anyway.