MiG77

Interesting what gets broken with different people. I have original 2013 (upgraded mostly to 2014 standard with some 2015 parts) and drive shafts have never been broken. Still have original ones. On other hand I have broken two front diff boxes (V2 boxes) in short time after I changed to 2015 thicker front shock tower (and my friend have broken 2 boxes aswell from 2015 car in same track). It could be that thicker shock tower don't flex as much and stress goes more to diff box. Might try to go back thinner tower.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Thanks for the heads up on the tlr 81mm deal.
It is interesting on what diff ppl break. I break front dog bones and im running a hack motor 10.5. My bud broke 2 front center chassis braces. Shock towers. Ive also had mine in 13 on n upgraded what i could. I love my kit but im tired o breaking the expensive metal stuff. Plus im finding the shocks are just garbage compared to other companies. Is this luxury or what???

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Wow this hasn't been my experience at all. Car drives like a beast, is durable like no other and is one of the easiest vehicles I've ever worked on. Sure parts can be expensive and yes non machined pistons are a head scratcher on a "luxury" kit but without a doubt it's probably the nicest kit out there in my opinion. Nothing is unbreakable though.

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

I've been lucky as well in 12 months of hard racing every week, i have only broken one front drive shaft, replaced it with a spec-r and never looked back, my car is super dialled and just does everything right, i love XRAY i have so many off there kits its not funny but the one thing i am sick of is the 14t steel bevel gears in the diffs, its such poor quality I've changed out at least 10 off them, i got so fed up off them failing i changed to composite one problem solved, i just hate when they no there is a problem with a particular part like front drive shafts and bevel gears and all they do is try to ignore it and try to blame it on the drivers just like they tried to do with the off centred rear hanger and the only reason they fixed that was they got pounded with bad reviews everywhere.

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

I do believe Xray had a bad batch for the front driveshafts. I broke two 6mo ago without hitting anything and that's why I tried the Spec-r. After breaking those I purchased new front Xray driveshafts. I've been on those for last couple of months without issue.

I also agree with the steel gears. They wear fast. I've gone to the composite as well and have had no issues (and I check them after every weekend). Nicest thing about the composites is it makes the car so quiet.

likea45

iTrader: (2)

Man I must have got a brand new everything kit, neither my '14 nor my '15 have had any drive shaft issues and the steel gears in my difs on the '15 are still going strong after nearly a year of weekly racing.

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

I haven't had the car long enough to speak on the drive shaft issue but nothing yet. I will definitely say this car is genuinely fun to work on. I don't have to disassemble half of it to get to the diffs and can tear down and rebuild the whole thing in under an two hours.


on another note, Does anyone have experience running the rear shock tower/shocks on the back of the gear box, instead of on the front? What did you feel it did?

Jamison R

iTrader: (66)

What is a good starting pinion with 6.5t motor? 2015 car with center diff.

GregerL

iTrader: (1)

Depends a lot on which brand of motor and your track, but I would start out with a 20 or 21.

/G.

GrandeGixxer

iTrader: (21)

I am running a 21t pinion with a 6.5. That is with gear diff and stock spur(I think 84 tooth?).

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

I am running a Trinity D4 6.5 with 18/84. The trinity motors are pretty powerful though, so my 6.5 is equivalent to a 5.5.

When I step down to a 7.5 I will only go one tooth to a 19.

BigInJapan

iTrader: (18)

i laugh when i see your posts, always something broken, always bagging out some thing on it or other. then you're happy to keep driving them, lol.
re: shocks - the Avid pistons are great, make a difference you can actually feel, and cost - wait for it - $16, the rest of the shocks are all good.

I ran the 14 on high grip carpet with a 6.5 then a 4.5 turn for over a year, so high speed rolls and crashes were a fact, yet my total breakages were 5 arms in total, 1 gearbox case, 1 cracked front tower, didnt even bend a hinge pin.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

I had the same question about pinion. I am going to be running tekin Rsx and start with the g2 redline 8.5 (just starting racing so wanted to get the hang of the car) what pinion should I use with the 8.5? I also have a lrp 6.5t I will be using.
Also wondering what is a good servo to go with? I've always had 8th scale so I don't know what kinda servo specs are good for 10th scale.

Uga

I see a lot of talk about AVID pistons, which ones would you suggest for a small twisty high grip carpet track with very small jumps? I see that they make only 2+2 pistons for Xray, do the 2 hole pistons for other models fit as well?

hugin_q3

Use the smallest config of the 2+2 pistons Avid has, They should will work great. I think that is 1.5 + 1.1 and the other is 1.6 + 1.1. I use the 1.5 BTW.

Or go for a small 2 hole config, I am sure that is enough if the track is pretty flat with small jumps only.

2 hole pistons work for all cars assume the pistons are the same diameter. Simple as that.

EDIT: As rcgod said after me, the shaft diameter needs to be correct. When I said diameter I guess that can be misinterpreted as outer diameter and not the shaft diameter. I did mean shaft diameter off course. And the outer diameter is self explanatory, that need to be the same. Sorry for that.