TV

iTrader: (1)

10k front and 5k fear for the diffs, and 42/27 for the shocks with 1.3x3 pistons should be a good start.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

Ok fellas, getting the 15 edition ready for the approaching indoor season. Ran into a problem. The screw that secures the steel pinion gear inside the front gear box stripped out on me. Now I use quality tools. I use strictly MIP. I have tried just about everything to get it out. Even tried a speed out with no success. The opening is to small to get a dremel in the without doing major damage to the front gear box and pinion gear. Any other suggestions I can try?

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

I've used these many times all successful.

http://www.amazon.com/Alden-4507P-Gr.../dp/B000Q60UOO

punkracer24

iTrader: (13)

you need a smaller cutting wheel.

It can be done..... I know. :-)

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

I am new to 10th scale and I am looking at getting into indoor racing. I am debating between the XB4 and the D413 (leaning towards the xb4). I would be going with either Tekin RSX or Orion R10 or Viper ESC. The tracks I would be running on are med size (nothing large). What motor would you all recommend... 6.5, 7.5, 8.5?
And are there any upgrades on the XB4 I would want to do off the bat? I may buy the 2015 but maybe the 2014. with 2014 I would want to do the steel diff gears right? And I also like the idea of a CD. Do the 2015 come with the CD? or do you need to buy that separately? I hear everyone say that xray parts are more expensive compared to others like the D413. Is that a big deal? I also hear that the xb4 is tough and won't really need replacement parts very often.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

If you want to run a center diff and/or shorty pack get the 2015. The center diff doesn't come with the car and costs $60.

Yes xray parts are more expensive than almost any other car. The car is tough but commonly broken parts are arms, front shock tower and front diff case. If you keep the car long enough to wear out the outdrives and bones you'll be shocked at how expensive they are. Just fyi.

The only upgrades I would recommend are shock pistons (schelle or avid) and 1 dot rear springs. Maybe a couple different size sway bars. And the rear wing mount gets hammered so a lot of guys go with the exotek one.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

I'll take a stab at this: @slapjack

Any of those ESC's can do the job. I like Orion myself.
Depending on your skills, will dictate your motor choice. I'd say a 7.5, you could always add some boost thru the ESC if you needed more.
If you buy a 2014, steel gears are nice, but not a must have. Many have run indoors on clay and carpet with the plastic gears. Set your slipper right and you'll be good.
The CD only fits the 2015, and is available separately.
The only must have hop up I can think of are aluminum CVD cups. Search this thread otherwise for good advice.
Parts are expensive, but I have broken only a few items in the past three years. The buggy is tough.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Thanks guys. I appreciate it.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Hey, You GUYS!!!!!!!



















Are spec R cvds worth it at 30 cents to the dollar??????
Broke another front bone at the weak point . Its getting old. Xray better beef up that part where the barrel goes in. Im at the point im waiting forca 16' before i wait for a back ordered front bone.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

My spec r driveshafts lasted about 4 races and broke the axle. My spec r shock mounts broke when I installed them and dropped the car from 6 inches. Imo they're cheaper but you get what you pay for in this case.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

Before I tear down the slipper assembly, do you guys think a Schumacher spur/slipper pads will fit? (I have a ton of Schumacher spurs and only a single Xray spur is why I ask)

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

I broke all but 1 of my Spec-R front driveshafts (I bought two sets). They are just not made to handle the stress. I did not hit anything with the car, they would just snap upon landing a jump.

Spec-R did refund my money for both sets though. So kudos to their customer service dept. Would not purchase again though.

I did break two stock shafts (that's why I tried the Spec-R) but currently have a set with 50 packs through them without issue. I turned my EPA way down so there is no stress on front end when turning. Seems to help.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

I bought a set of Spec R driveshafts last summer, I broke one of the tiny CV d pins near the end of the season because I was told not to bother lubricating them, big mistake, but that's all I've broken. I make mistakes, crash and have cartwheeled off the track with them. Never sheared anything off.

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

Hmm well losi has a pair for 22$ for the 22_4 im considering buying to see if they'll work . They are also 81mm.

HSV427

iTrader: (30)

Don't waist your money the TLR ones won't fit i made the same mistake as X-ray measure there drive shafts from end to end and TLR measure from centre to centre. The TLR shaft is actually 88mm not 81.