ronzo

iTrader: (32)

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

The center hole is not needed, a chassis stiffener.

The motor mount plate looks tight to the other holes. Mine is a touch farther forward, the counter sinks dont touch. I drilled the MM first, bolted it in and then set up the plastic diff bearing carrier and checked it from the plastic side for bearing spacing and axle fitment.

Mine isn't exactly perfect, but the full center plate bolted right in and I have 20 packs in it so far. No issues.

ronzo

iTrader: (32)

thanks for the info and do you have a starting setup?

MaricopaAgent

iTrader: (28)

I Didn't change much from where I was.

Had to lower the ride height back to 19 after loosing the weight, including rear brass.

Dont forget to turn the diffs around.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Have you tried going thicker in the diffs? Maybe even putting the thicker shim on the bottom for axle height?

Boz

iTrader: (23)

I moved the front axle shim around for the first time the other night. A the end of the race meet on Wednesday I have a quick 5 min practice in which I made two adjustments. First was the shim, this had a minimal effect in the 180deg corner, but it did feel better the keyhole section which was interesting. Then I moved the link up and that improved it a little bit move.

Diff. I'm a little stuck here. The club did track maintenance last weekend and now we have a half sugared and half natural track. Its a bit of a compromise setup at the moment. I'm currently running 7f/5r. Increase the rear back up to 7?

3 of the 4 180's are on the natural surface.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

Do you have 6 degree hubs yet? Also what are you looking for with the diffs? Freeing up the rear?

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

I'd say no, don't got up in rear diff oil, expecially if your 180's are 3/4 on natural surface - it'll make the rear get squirrly when you get on power. Have you tried 7f, 3r? I try to keep my diff oil 5000wt apart.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

(maybe hes looking for the extra rotation?)

branover

iTrader: (29)

Got mine finished up today and ran a half a battery through it. So far so good.
Anyone know which 25t aluminum servo horn will fit it?

Landscaper

iTrader: (4)

Looking at picking one of these up for the winter indoor season, What are some extra parts if any I would need to get. Thanks

Boz

iTrader: (23)

Yeah, I would probably describe it at a rotation issue.


I'll try 3 in the rear. In the past my chassis has performed best on no split 7/7.


I'll post a full setup on the Xray forum later today. Running on a multi traction track sucks. Oh well, such is life.

joeymdz

iTrader: (13)

going lower in the rear will give you more rear traction. You want to go thicker to help it rotate (but theres a sweet spot)

John Myall

I've got a Durango one on mine, use the lower of the two holes & it's the same as stock.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

I was wondering about this, was afraid of diffing out. May have to pick up sone 3K today. With the local track as slippery as it is, dropping the rear may give me back the traction I had with my old car used in winter when conditions were better. I put the 6 degree caster blocks on, but have yet to run the car. Getting hammered with work in school.