I have the 2010 durango which uses a 10mm+/- hex up front, so that's why I asked.

I run a Tekin RS Pro/Orion 7.5 currently. Perfectly happy with the ESC (Tekin's customer service is second to none), and ehhh about the motor. It's VERY smooth, but has no low end, the trade off is that I've yet to destroy a ring/pinion gear, but they all wear out eventually.

I really like the LRP stuff, but I would stay far away from anything Version 2. Allegedly the new Flow solves the problems, but it hasn't been released to the public yet, so who knows...

Speed Passions' stuff runs well, but I had an 2.0 Pro melt down on me after plugging the battery in. I understand that stuff happens, but their customer service dept. told me to pound sand. Decent ESC, but even at <$80, I'd stay away.

The Orions are good and smooth, but many have setup/programming issues. I've heard both good and bad about their customer svc., so the jury is still out on that one.

I run a Tekin RX8/Pro4 4600kv in my SCTE and I like it. I'm new to buggies and want to try and buy a proven esc/motor combo.

Any brand can have issues, we all know that. I've seen very few, almost no issues with Orion stuff. I have 2 V2 LRP's that I've had no issues with as well.

If I was in the market for a new set up I would buy another Orion..IMO

Tekin works, I just don't like the "feel" they have..again IMO

^ agreed. Poke around in the pits at your local track on a practice night. I'm sure plenty of people will let you turn a few laps with their rides.

It seems my local track likes Tekin. It's probably due in part to the fact that one of the best buggy drivers there is Tekin sponsored.

So getting past Brands, do you recommend 5.5/6.5/7.5 or 8.5

Large track use a 6.5 minimum but 5.5 would be better. Medium to small tracks a 6.5 is good but 7.5 will work fine. Small tracks use a 7.5 and an 8.5 you can add boost or timing or whatever they do. LoL.

I run a 6.5 almost everywhere but have not been to a 'large' track with 1/10 vehicles. Largest track for our travels is 150'x85'.

Tekin is very popular right now. I think it is largely due to their small form factor for 1/10 scale racing. They are also a good esc, which never hurts. Viper is good and small, but seems to be less known by a majority of club racers.

My 7.5 gets it done everywhere I've ever been, and even with it being gutless, it's a good amount of motor. I see no need to ever go lower than 6.5, that's just going into ludicrous speed territory.

If your longest straight is ~100' or less, than a 7.5 is all you need. I've never wanted more top end, just more punch on the bottom.

Had a chance to see a few b44.2s run at my track here and was wondering if the ball cups popping is a issue? The guys at my track were popping ball cups left and right anytime they had a bad tumble.

thats ae ball cups, i broke one this weekend, an replaced the hole car with rpm's

Same ballcups as every other AE buggy.

Link pls :-)

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Ends-Black-12

Got out on Sat for the first 4wd race since getting rid of my 44.1 last month.

Kit setup. 6.5 sonic, SXX TC2 with updated mod/stock board, no fan, no boost, no auto brakes.

Stock diffs broke in great.

No issues with stock ball cups while tumbling a few times during a full day of break in, practice, quals and racing.

I msitakenly did not install rear limiters. Thought I could hear the dogbone ends in the rear during the air. Then, During a crash while practicing a cva came out. Quick fix: just set the rear shock lowers to the outside. Will be installing one limiter in the rear shocks.

No ballast needed(for me.)

I also mistakenly installed 1.6 pistons in the rear. Going to 1.7 rear pistons asap.

Never liked sticker style chassis protectors , but AE's version is super tough(like lexan) and scratch free on our smooooth new layout.

Batteries forward with padding(servo tape, one side not exposed) on sides and top straps.

Put a drilled v2 slipper plate in the front of my slipper during build. Slipper never over-slipped(heated up) in the 6 min main and I had it pretty loose to protect my new diffs on a loose indoor track.

Petitrc has this:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...mSetup2012.pdf

That setup Corrects my rear shock setup but no mention of ballast.

Over all first impression:
Over the past 3 years I've fallen in love the 44 layout. It's taught me the importance of a meticulous build and routine maintenance.Pitch control during flight is simple. Never heard chassis slap the entire night with the big bores.
Turns sooo steady but way more fun to catch an over steer and dart straight out.

Will go with the standard setup from here out until the pros have spoken.

For me, it's so good that the 44.2 is worth savoring for races. Because of dis-assembly required for diffs, maintenance, and breakages; my 2wd will continue to be my training vehicle for practice days.