172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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12-10-2012, 12:43 PM
#3272
The other thing to note was the spur size. I have been running 76/21 and when I purchase my Triad I could not get the 76 so I had to go with 75. That took a little adjusting and I did not have time to get it perfect for me by the end of the night. I ended up at 76/23 but I still don't like it.
If you're not running a Triad slipper you can just use an AE/Kimbrough spur with the AE slipper pads.
12-10-2012, 12:56 PM
#3273
If you are running a 17.5 motor I would recommend gearing 69/31-32. Avid makes a 69T spur for the triad. Depending on your motor and the track layout you'll want to adjust the pinion. Smaller for more torque, which is generally better for more technical layouts with a lot of 180s and short run-ups to jumps.
If you're not running a Triad slipper you can just use an AE/Kimbrough spur with the AE slipper pads.
If you're not running a Triad slipper you can just use an AE/Kimbrough spur with the AE slipper pads.
12-10-2012, 01:10 PM
#3274
I ran my RB6 for the first time this past weekend. I thought it went well considering it was my first outing with a 2wd buggy. I did struggle with rear grip coming out of the corner (on throttle) which was a major downer. I made some setup changes to make it better but never got it to the point where the car was planted or comfortable to drive on throttle.
I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.
1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)
Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!
I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.
1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)
Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!
12-10-2012, 01:28 PM
#3275
I bought a used rb5 WC, got it tore it down and completely went through and rebuilt the hole car including the diff. I used to race 1/10 buggy but it was many years ago. I got all my electronics put in turned it on everything seemed fine on the stand. Put it on the ground and its slipping like crazy. Got the nut on the slipper cranked down all the way and it doesn't help. Where did I go wrong???
12-10-2012, 01:36 PM
#3276
I ran my RB6 for the first time this past weekend. I thought it went well considering it was my first outing with a 2wd buggy. I did struggle with rear grip coming out of the corner (on throttle) which was a major downer. I made some setup changes to make it better but never got it to the point where the car was planted or comfortable to drive on throttle.
I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.
1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)
Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!
I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.
1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)
Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!
Am I right in assuming you are using a gear diff? I would first try out the ball diff set as loose as possible without it slipping/barking. From then on tune the slipper after ball diff is to your liking.
12-10-2012, 02:29 PM
#3277
The Exotek shock stays are really nice and give consistent play...
12-10-2012, 04:24 PM
#3281
I am still considering making a switch from the B4.1 to the RB6. Aside from the quality of the car and the additional adjustment features, what can I expect from the feel/performance of the car compared to the B4.1? Given my limited skills, I am fairly comfortable with the AE.
This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too.
This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too.
About 1/2 the Expert & Sportsman Stock class drivers at WCRC are running the RB6 with great results... Feel free to ask anyone there about the buggy Rog... Everyone that now has an RB6 has either owned or raced a B4.1, 22 or DEX210 at one point or another. Everyone at the track is friendly and/or knowledgeable enough to give you good feedback!
Last edited by desertracerdad; 12-10-2012 at 04:44 PM.
12-10-2012, 05:18 PM
#3282
[QUOTE=AngryRog;11537491]I am still considering making a switch from the B4.1 to the RB6. Aside from the quality of the car and the additional adjustment features, what can I expect from the feel/performance of the car compared to the B4.1? Given my limited skills, I am fairly comfortable with the AE.
This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too.[/QUOTE
have you ever gone from buggy to stadium truck? this buggy is easy to drive like a stadium truck but as agile as any buggy ever built. a guy at my local track tried the rb6 over the weekend after racing his b4.1 and said that the 6 is just silky smooth. ive run both and he b4.1 is a very agile and able buggy but the six is on pillows. it goes where you tell it to when you tell it to it just does it smoother..I've also driven just about every class out there and more brands and models then i can remember and this car is the best RC car i have ever driven. thats not me trying to sell you on the car that is my honest opinion of the car
This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too.
[/QUOTEhave you ever gone from buggy to stadium truck? this buggy is easy to drive like a stadium truck but as agile as any buggy ever built. a guy at my local track tried the rb6 over the weekend after racing his b4.1 and said that the 6 is just silky smooth. ive run both and he b4.1 is a very agile and able buggy but the six is on pillows. it goes where you tell it to when you tell it to it just does it smoother..I've also driven just about every class out there and more brands and models then i can remember and this car is the best RC car i have ever driven. thats not me trying to sell you on the car that is my honest opinion of the car
12-10-2012, 05:22 PM
#3284
@eper
I am going to try your setup for the shorty. Why did you jump to red front directly? How did the whites feel with shorty all the way front? I do like more steering than most, whether that makes me fast or not is another matter, does make me happier with my car
. Just afraid reds will take away a lot more steering.
I have both white and red to try and thinking of going to white first.
Last week I found more speed with my current delta rc winter track running a full 300 gram lipo with pink/gold since the track is super rutted from 1/8 nitro and has fewer twisty bits than the summer tracks.
I am going to try your setup for the shorty. Why did you jump to red front directly? How did the whites feel with shorty all the way front? I do like more steering than most, whether that makes me fast or not is another matter, does make me happier with my car
. Just afraid reds will take away a lot more steering.I have both white and red to try and thinking of going to white first.
Last week I found more speed with my current delta rc winter track running a full 300 gram lipo with pink/gold since the track is super rutted from 1/8 nitro and has fewer twisty bits than the summer tracks.