K_King

iTrader: (47)

Well the trick is to use a hand drill and dont force anything. Its not terribly hard. People get into trouble trying to force the thing through.

Tom87

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys for the shock piston suggestions. I'll have a look around and see what I can find.

CanyonCarverR1

iTrader: (13)

Somebody suggested a little grease and some Durango boots. Has anybody actually tried this?

ChadBlanton

iTrader: (1)

Is there some other thread I should have asked this question in?

underway

iTrader: (56)

GMK Hole Thing sold at amain is what I use to hand drill pistons. Works like a charm...

steam

iTrader: (10)

sounds like a good start, maybe even try .5 degree hubs

t8rtot

iTrader: (14)

Try moving the pack back and/or going +4 caster inerts

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Not having the rest of your setup, I would say running your battery that far up is adding a lot of front weight and not enough rear weight.

Weazsel

iTrader: (70)

Hey Chad, in my opinion it's not easy answering setup questions unless you're actually at the track with the person. For starters the obvious change to make is to move the battery back. I run mine all the way back but that's my track. A description of what kind of surface you are running on, tires you're running, what setup you have on the car now are all necessary to give you a decent answer. For now, with only the information you provided my answer is to move the battery back.

I apologize if I missed a post where you provided details.

ChadBlanton

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help guys. I was too vague. Details are clay indoor track. Super soft rebars front and rear. Pink front gold rear springs. 0 castor inserts. All else is stock.
Now if a diff is too tight, both wheels will break loose together. If the diff is loose, the outside wheel will spin too easily??

evolution03

iTrader: (8)

which rear hub carriers are stock .5 or 0 or 1 ? I was thinking about getting the metal ones

Troy Mckune

iTrader: (51)

I would not focus on the diff at all. Get it tight enough so that is smooth but does not slip ever. Also is your slipper to tight?

Tires are almost everything in offroad. Are the tires you are running what all the fast guys are running? Are the fronts giving you too much steering into a corner as well? You can spend all day trying another shim here 1 less there, more camber or less camber, different hubs, etc. If your tires are not hooked up you well never be as fast as someone that is.

On an indoor clay track I would think you would be running worn in gold barcodes or maybe blue, MC Suburbs, pink BK bars, or any of the bar type tires in indoor soft or clay compounds. I use super soft Rebars on outdoor dusty tracks. Not to say they wont work but just consider options. The front Rebars may be to aggressive as well.

Just my .02

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Stock is 0.

Ostach24

iTrader: (104)

some pics of the wiring hate yellow wheels and body isnt painted yet

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Rebars need to be pretty worn as well before they actually hook up. Even on my track which isnt 100% clay we need to burn them in pretty good before they start to hook up. I run nearly bald front SS as well, or you get a wicked push loose condition.