njc11

Could be a number of different things.... From running mine the Diff is always better slightly tighter and slipper adjustment can make a huge difference ( I run the avid set up...) I've also ditched the Yaiba racing rear mid motor bulkhead as I find this is more suited to high grip, bumpy tracks (seems to keep the rear in check by limiting flex in the rear, especially where you would have a high grip sweeper with ripples and bumps.. You can keep on the power...)

The only bling I have is the ally rear hubs for extra piece of mind and the choice of camber link positions..

I've also found running the narrow setting on the kyosho rear hinge pin holders generates a lot of initial side bite so there is also a compromise... Hence I'm now running A / A and the car instantly after running the previous D / D free'd the back end up on corner entry and gave the car more drive mid to exit.. I'm running the thinner shim under the rear block which equates to approx 1.5 anti squat I believe.. This will calm down the on power steering and give you a little more side bite.. You could try adding a shim under the forward hinge pin holder to alter your roll center as this will generate a little more roll...but remember to change the rear shim as we'll to keep anti squat the same!

Make sure your diff is nice and smooth in action.. Any little notch in the action and you have reason to doubt its state, rebuild it, as again this will make a huge difference... I wet and dry the plates etc and use tungsten carbide diff balls ( tried ceramic and you don't get the mileage out of them and they eat your plates!)

On the tracks here in the UK,shock wise I run 4 x 1.3 all round, orange front and red rear 37.5 and 25.. ( don't forget we mainly run on astro turf using spiked tyres)

I've always stuck with kit arms running 2 holes at the back using the inside hole (I've now drilled the new inside hole to try next time out..) I have tried the flat rear wishbones UM566/LA272 with the extra inside hole and it defo keeps the car flatter in the corner and is good.. But I just prefer the feel of the kit arms for overall performance.. Lots of mid to exit steering... I also tried the light weight chassis and in my mind this gave the car a lot more overall grip and felt nice balanced when driving front to rear.. Bit to lively for my older thumbs mind Since going back to kit chassis it's much more to my thumbs

Electrics... I run shorty... With the esc next to the motor and the battery next to the esc, low profile servo, rx on one side and R10 power cap and switch the other.. I have my pt on the servo..

Apologies for the long post....

If I can be of any more help drop me a pm

K_King

iTrader: (47)

Im not a fan of handlebar rears. They dont provide the best grip for me. I like broken in Deja Vus the best with a pinstripe or handlebar front.

Whats the rest of your setup?

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

i use cody kings setup from the reedy race,but i use 1.6 pistons...one thing to try 1st before changing your setup, is put the hubs allthe way forward,also taking the 2 screws out the bottom of the motor mount(gives flex)..tire sauce wd40,may sound weird but maybe using super soft compound,just because its clay indoor does not mean a car has instant tracktion.also new tires can suck.kinda hard to pinpoint your problem,but start here...,
sauce
hubs forward
screws out the bottom..
1* camber
ride height..23-24 standard
rear arm hole mod
these tips require no $

Enigma R/C

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Casey on the post.

As he was stating, when I started doing the new drilled hole my track was FAR from high bite, very dusty and loose....standing the rear shocks more straight up and down generates more forward bit.

To further back up this claim, about 2 weeks ago I had a local buddy wanna try my drilled hole setup and asked how far to drill the hole from the sway bar mount(as that is how we have been doing our measurements) and I messed up and told him 14.8 instead of the correct distant of 17.8, so needless to say his shocks were VERY straight up and down, and he went out and drove it and came back to say dude, I don't like it, my car has SOOOOO much rear bite that I can even go into the sweeper and its so locked exiting all the 180 turns that I just push to the way(he was running stock) so I drove his car and sure enough it was pretty bad, anyways a day later he looked at my setup online to see that it was actually 17.8 not 14.8 and then he went to the correct length.

So all in all, it goes to show that the more you stand them straight up and down the more rear grip you will generate.

It allows the pivot points from the inner and outer hing pins to work properly with the angle of the shock, and transfer weight in the proper fashion that it should be.

So I would at least give the new hole a try and see what you think before going all the way back to rear motor, and I would for sure ditch the saddle packs and extra weight on the car....I have tried doing exactly what you are doing to generate more traction on my car and it just made the car worse and worse.

Hope this helps and makes sense. Good luck buddy!

Eric Tomczyk

iTrader: (96)

Zack what are you running for the hinge pin inserts? I didn't see that on the setup sheet.

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

Do you have a RB6 chassis for sale/trade?

I'm looking for a RB6 chassis with the new battery stop hole (found in newer) RB6 kits or maybe someone who don't like their LW chassis. PM me pls.

Jason Snyder

iTrader: (4)

I made a front battery stop that uses the wide holes in the front of the chassis.....let me know if you want one.

Kuya_Kimo

iTrader: (90)

PM'd. What's the price?

Naxn

I can't for the life of me figure out how to adjust the diff without taking off the wheels. I've watched the video of Tebo breaking in and adjusting his and I still cannot figure it out.

Where should I stick the wrench? Is it some kind of specialty wrench? Is he spinning the spur or the tire to tighten?

Thanks!

orangutanracer

iTrader: (2)

The diff outdrive has a hole in it that you can fit a 2mm hex wrench into.
Line the slot in the diff screw up with the hole drop in the 2mm hex wrench and then turn the wheel on the spur side to adjust the tightness to your liking.

Naxn

So, the screw side of the diff should be on the opposite side of the motor plate?

The hole you're talking about- are they the holes that the manual says to put a white plastic ring to cover them up? (Page:20, Figure:20, Part: 33)

Does everyone just leave that white ring off all the time?

Thanks again.

Tom87

iTrader: (3)

1. Yes, the head of the bolt opposite the motor plate. This makes it easier to adjust the diff. No real performance difference as you turn the diff going mid motor to rear.

2. Yes

3. And yes

I use a 1.5 mm Allen key like what you get in the kit rather then a driver.

kyle3333

iTrader: (1)

It's been a while since I've built a new kit. Do the current kits ship with aluminum steering components? Basically the steering rack and crank arms.


Thanks

jmoneym

iTrader: (357)

Any pics of Zack buggy?

Naxn

The kit comes with plastic.