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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-10-2012, 11:33 AM   #3271
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Originally Posted by x7tristan View Post
I haven't had the chance to run my RB6 yet, so I was wondering if anyone has had issues with wiring the battery connectors right over the receiver? I'm wondering if doing so will cause some interference.

Nothing should happen. Mines wired the same way. If your using analog receivers then might cause issues not with the 2.4 though. I see you are also running sweep tires, I like them the droids
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:43 PM   #3272
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
The other thing to note was the spur size. I have been running 76/21 and when I purchase my Triad I could not get the 76 so I had to go with 75. That took a little adjusting and I did not have time to get it perfect for me by the end of the night. I ended up at 76/23 but I still don't like it.
If you are running a 17.5 motor I would recommend gearing 69/31-32. Avid makes a 69T spur for the triad. Depending on your motor and the track layout you'll want to adjust the pinion. Smaller for more torque, which is generally better for more technical layouts with a lot of 180s and short run-ups to jumps.

If you're not running a Triad slipper you can just use an AE/Kimbrough spur with the AE slipper pads.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:56 PM   #3273
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Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
If you are running a 17.5 motor I would recommend gearing 69/31-32. Avid makes a 69T spur for the triad. Depending on your motor and the track layout you'll want to adjust the pinion. Smaller for more torque, which is generally better for more technical layouts with a lot of 180s and short run-ups to jumps.

If you're not running a Triad slipper you can just use an AE/Kimbrough spur with the AE slipper pads.
Running 7.5 mod (reedy) motor. I was at 21/76 with the K slipper. Couldn't get a 76 triad so had to go to 75.
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:10 PM   #3274
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I ran my RB6 for the first time this past weekend. I thought it went well considering it was my first outing with a 2wd buggy. I did struggle with rear grip coming out of the corner (on throttle) which was a major downer. I made some setup changes to make it better but never got it to the point where the car was planted or comfortable to drive on throttle.

I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.

1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)

Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:28 PM   #3275
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I bought a used rb5 WC, got it tore it down and completely went through and rebuilt the hole car including the diff. I used to race 1/10 buggy but it was many years ago. I got all my electronics put in turned it on everything seemed fine on the stand. Put it on the ground and its slipping like crazy. Got the nut on the slipper cranked down all the way and it doesn't help. Where did I go wrong???
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Old 12-10-2012, 02:36 PM   #3276
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
I ran my RB6 for the first time this past weekend. I thought it went well considering it was my first outing with a 2wd buggy. I did struggle with rear grip coming out of the corner (on throttle) which was a major downer. I made some setup changes to make it better but never got it to the point where the car was planted or comfortable to drive on throttle.

I plan on doing the following (in the order listed) to improve this area in my next outing.

1) Loosen the slipper clutch. I believe this was set to tight. The bench test, my front comes up at least 6-8 inches.
2) Run the gear diff with lighter oil (currently 2000cST, will go down to 1000cST)
3) Use the .5 degree rear hubs, move up to 1 degree (if needed)
4) Use the RF (narrow) suspension hangers.
5) Run longer wheel base (currently 1mm on both sides of the arms)
6) Run 0 degree caster
7) Move weight to the rear (Team Orion shortly LiPO to the rear position)

Initial and mid corner steering is great. I'm also happy with the on power steering. I just need to fix this snap oversteer that occurs the minute I touch the throttle. If there is anything I may have missed please let me know. BTW I'm the running 7.5T Team Orion VST motor with the R10 Pro at Throttle profile 2. Thanks guys!!!

Am I right in assuming you are using a gear diff? I would first try out the ball diff set as loose as possible without it slipping/barking. From then on tune the slipper after ball diff is to your liking.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:29 PM   #3277
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
This was covered at length earlier in the thread if you want to read more.
Yes, the balls fit loosly in the shock until you tighten up the nut and expand the ball. Use an alum. nut and tighten it to the point where the shock stays on but doesn't bind. Works fine.
The Exotek shock stays are really nice and give consistent play...
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:31 PM   #3278
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The Exotek shock stays are really nice and give consistent play...
But they are aluminum on aluminum.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:46 PM   #3279
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But they are aluminum on aluminum.
+1
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:04 PM   #3280
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But they are aluminum on aluminum.
+2

I bought a pair to try anyway. Going to hit it with a teflon spray and see what happens. Probably bad.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:24 PM   #3281
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I am still considering making a switch from the B4.1 to the RB6. Aside from the quality of the car and the additional adjustment features, what can I expect from the feel/performance of the car compared to the B4.1? Given my limited skills, I am fairly comfortable with the AE.

This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too.

About 1/2 the Expert & Sportsman Stock class drivers at WCRC are running the RB6 with great results... Feel free to ask anyone there about the buggy Rog... Everyone that now has an RB6 has either owned or raced a B4.1, 22 or DEX210 at one point or another. Everyone at the track is friendly and/or knowledgeable enough to give you good feedback!
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Last edited by desertracerdad; 12-10-2012 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:18 PM   #3282
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[QUOTE=AngryRog;11537491]I am still considering making a switch from the B4.1 to the RB6. Aside from the quality of the car and the additional adjustment features, what can I expect from the feel/performance of the car compared to the B4.1? Given my limited skills, I am fairly comfortable with the AE.

This could be a significant change for me, as my daughter races buggy as well and she'll want one too. [/QUOTE

have you ever gone from buggy to stadium truck? this buggy is easy to drive like a stadium truck but as agile as any buggy ever built. a guy at my local track tried the rb6 over the weekend after racing his b4.1 and said that the 6 is just silky smooth. ive run both and he b4.1 is a very agile and able buggy but the six is on pillows. it goes where you tell it to when you tell it to it just does it smoother..I've also driven just about every class out there and more brands and models then i can remember and this car is the best RC car i have ever driven. thats not me trying to sell you on the car that is my honest opinion of the car
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:20 PM   #3283
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+2

I bought a pair to try anyway. Going to hit it with a teflon spray and see what happens. Probably bad.
powdered graphite would work well there
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:22 PM   #3284
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@eper

I am going to try your setup for the shorty. Why did you jump to red front directly? How did the whites feel with shorty all the way front? I do like more steering than most, whether that makes me fast or not is another matter, does make me happier with my car . Just afraid reds will take away a lot more steering.

I have both white and red to try and thinking of going to white first.

Last week I found more speed with my current delta rc winter track running a full 300 gram lipo with pink/gold since the track is super rutted from 1/8 nitro and has fewer twisty bits than the summer tracks.
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:57 PM   #3285
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powdered graphite would work well there
The stuff I have turns solid. Was hoping for a buildup/layer.

Graphite lube wouldn't work where I drive. Wet outdoor dirt.
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