172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
10-26-2012, 07:44 AM
#2117
I have a slightly updated version of my setup on my site as well.
http://jasondias.com/2012/10/12/kyos...st-rc-raceway/
http://jasondias.com/2012/10/12/kyos...st-rc-raceway/
What are you running as far as the 64 pitch/locked slipper in your setup? I'm guessing something custom (perhaps a bit of CA glue/Epoxy)?
10-26-2012, 09:10 AM
#2118
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
I have been running the rb6 in mid motor at my local indoor off road track. Our track is just normal packed dirt, no clay. We run green barcodes front to rear or m4 suburbs.
Some of the changes i made to the setup:
Rear:
Softer rear springs (golds)
Im running 25 wt shock oil with stock pistons in the rear
Rear camber link as low and as short as possible
0 degree alum rear hubs
The alum wide arms mounts in the rear
Im running the rb5 wc rear arms
Rear shock position is all the way inside on tower and all the way out side on the arms.
I raised the transmission up 1 mm
Running a little a little square piece of carbon fiber under the transmission
.5 anti squat
Chassis lay out:
17.5 high rpm novak ballistic motor geared 28/69 with 45 degrees on timing on the end bell, and blinky on the esc
I am running the receiver next to the motor and the esc on the receiver mounting plate
I run a crc shorty pack 40c 4200mah
A savox 1258tg servo with transponder mounted on top of it
Front:
Running the stock springs with stock pistons and 32.5 wt shock oil
The shocks are mounted in the middle of the tower
With them on the outside of the arms
Total caster is 30 degrees
The camber link has no shims under it on the caster blocks and is all the way out side on the bulkhead with 2mm under it
I run the steering rack turned around and i have not broken the rack yet either.
Tebo's local track is the track that i work at, he said the first batch of rb6's chassis were milled down a little to low (obviously) so the next batch will be fine. You guys also gotta remember he is not running a production kit, which is why he is not having the chassis problem. He also runs the old rear a arms because it lets him drive the car harder. He said 95% of people will like the new arms vs. the old ones.
I have done a lot of testing with the mid motor and i am still changing things each day. My car is close, just needs a few more tweaks.
Also i apologize for not just posting a pdf for my setup sheet, i am in the middle of class right now on my ipad lol.
Some of the changes i made to the setup:
Rear:
Softer rear springs (golds)
Im running 25 wt shock oil with stock pistons in the rear
Rear camber link as low and as short as possible
0 degree alum rear hubs
The alum wide arms mounts in the rear
Im running the rb5 wc rear arms
Rear shock position is all the way inside on tower and all the way out side on the arms.
I raised the transmission up 1 mm
Running a little a little square piece of carbon fiber under the transmission
.5 anti squat
Chassis lay out:
17.5 high rpm novak ballistic motor geared 28/69 with 45 degrees on timing on the end bell, and blinky on the esc
I am running the receiver next to the motor and the esc on the receiver mounting plate
I run a crc shorty pack 40c 4200mah
A savox 1258tg servo with transponder mounted on top of it
Front:
Running the stock springs with stock pistons and 32.5 wt shock oil
The shocks are mounted in the middle of the tower
With them on the outside of the arms
Total caster is 30 degrees
The camber link has no shims under it on the caster blocks and is all the way out side on the bulkhead with 2mm under it
I run the steering rack turned around and i have not broken the rack yet either.
Tebo's local track is the track that i work at, he said the first batch of rb6's chassis were milled down a little to low (obviously) so the next batch will be fine. You guys also gotta remember he is not running a production kit, which is why he is not having the chassis problem. He also runs the old rear a arms because it lets him drive the car harder. He said 95% of people will like the new arms vs. the old ones.
I have done a lot of testing with the mid motor and i am still changing things each day. My car is close, just needs a few more tweaks.
Also i apologize for not just posting a pdf for my setup sheet, i am in the middle of class right now on my ipad lol.
10-26-2012, 09:18 AM
#2119
thanks.
how is the car reacting and what are you aspect of the setup are you working or trying to get the car to do better?
how is the car reacting and what are you aspect of the setup are you working or trying to get the car to do better?
Last edited by t8rtot; 10-26-2012 at 09:33 AM.
10-26-2012, 09:18 AM
#2120
There are a number of setups available for WCRC, I recommend not starting with the Tebo or the Japanese setup. Instead Cody, Drews, or my setup will be better for you to start with, all of which are or will be available on Kyosho's website.
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Factory-Setups_c_842.html
I have a slightly updated version of my setup on my site as well.
http://jasondias.com/2012/10/12/kyos...st-rc-raceway/
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Factory-Setups_c_842.html
I have a slightly updated version of my setup on my site as well.
http://jasondias.com/2012/10/12/kyos...st-rc-raceway/
10-26-2012, 10:12 AM
#2122
David Ronnefalk's mid motor set up is posted on Neobuggy
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/...CRd1_Setup.pdf
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/...CRd1_Setup.pdf
10-26-2012, 10:18 AM
#2123
what surface? and what gear diff?
10-26-2012, 11:15 AM
#2127
Moderator
iTrader: (470)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: North Carolina by way of SoCal!
Posts: 4,785
Trader Rating: 470 (100%+)
^^^lol. And mine is just my boring last name. I wasn't very creative when I joined. I never noticed what his was either until Brandon said something! Haha
10-26-2012, 01:52 PM
#2128
thanks guys. i'm tempted to run mid-motor. i had an X-factory awhile ago and liked it.
10-27-2012, 03:36 AM
#2129
Tech Regular
Considering picking up an RB6 to replace my 210, as I'm finding the 210 poor in low traction conditions (grip/balance) and in high grip the ball diff isn't up to the job (gear diff is slower!) and is inconsistent (but still quicker than gear diff!)
Looking to hear from people who have either tried both or have made the switch themselves. Did your laptimes fall and become more consistent?
Looking to hear from people who have either tried both or have made the switch themselves. Did your laptimes fall and become more consistent?
10-27-2012, 04:17 AM
#2130
Had the rango. Hated it. Got a used rb5 and even without tuning it, was way way better than the rango. the shocks itself put it a cut above the rest. Building my rb6 tomorrow but if the older ones better than the rango then for sure this woudl be too 
. Go for it.
On a side note, never had trouble with the rango ball diff esp with bfast kits.
. Go for it.On a side note, never had trouble with the rango ball diff esp with bfast kits.