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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-27-2012, 02:51 PM
  #2146  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
When I had my DEX210, first thing I did was put a B-Fast diff in it (stock diff was horrible, one chirp and it was gone). Never rebuilt it in the whole 5 months I had the car. Very nice kit, for a very sub par rear motor car.
The durango diff is horrible if your wrenching skills are horrible. As sub par as the durango is at least it doesn't end up with a vented chassis or a missed mortgage payment due to its ridiculous cost.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:25 AM
  #2147  
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Originally Posted by jnslprd
The durango diff is horrible if your wrenching skills are horrible. As sub par as the durango is at least it doesn't end up with a vented chassis or a missed mortgage payment due to its ridiculous cost.
What does this post even mean?
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:51 AM
  #2148  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
What does this post even mean?
It means that he should have a sit down and think about his life if he's missing mortgage payments to buy a toy car...
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:54 AM
  #2149  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
What does this post even mean?
Got me.
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Old 10-28-2012, 04:05 AM
  #2150  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The RB6 is considerably better than the 210 in all areas of measurement, except for one... and that is the ball diff. The dex210 is the worst car, with absolutely the best ball diff on the 1/10th market. (I would place the kyosho ball diff in a distant second).

Regardless, the RB6 is a better car all around. Just find somebody that has one dialed in to your track, and ask to drive it.
On low-medium traction tracks, the ball diff is ok. But on high traction tracks I find it becomes inconsistent and will slip (circlip?) or will not be consistent from corner to corner.

What's wrong the ball diff in the RB6, wearing out too quick? I have owned a cougar before the 210 and the diff in that was terrible, if with ceramic balls!
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:20 AM
  #2151  
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Originally Posted by Chris-s
On low-medium traction tracks, the ball diff is ok. But on high traction tracks I find it becomes inconsistent and will slip (circlip?) or will not be consistent from corner to corner.

What's wrong the ball diff in the RB6, wearing out too quick? I have owned a cougar before the 210 and the diff in that was terrible, if with ceramic balls!
Kyosho diffs last a long time. I am on the same build for a month now on my 6, and it's still smooth as butter and very little wear on the outdrives.
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Old 10-28-2012, 06:44 AM
  #2152  
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I always though the Scumacher diffs and Kyosho diffs were great. My ranking:

-Schumacher (never dealt with Durango's ball diffs)
-Kyosho
-AE



-Losi
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:05 PM
  #2153  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Kyosho diffs last a long time. I am on the same build for a month now on my 6, and it's still smooth as butter and very little wear on the outdrives.
same here. I was really happy to hear that they didn't change the transmission from the rb5 serious. It works great and, if built properly, ;lasts a long time.
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:08 PM
  #2154  
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the diff before the wc kit never seemed to last to long for me so i ran the bfast which is a great diff. but to be honest the diff in my 6 is super smooth and seems to be lasting a while. I also like the new x gear grease that comes with the kit on my old diffs i ran ae grease which worked good but the new stuff seems to work great and its not ae which makes it even better
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:11 PM
  #2155  
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So its been a while since I have posted on here, but I figured I would help out my sponsors and show off my RB6 build and what they have helped me with. Just a disclaimer, I built it the way I wanted it to look and hopefully perform to my best abilities. And in no way state that you have to do what I did. We are all adults, well most of us, and you can do whatever you like to your toys.... Period...

So with that said, enjoy, comment, flame and ask questions....

















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Old 10-28-2012, 09:33 PM
  #2156  
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Black chassis looks good.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:01 PM
  #2157  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
Black chassis looks good.
+1 chassis looks really good. Is it tape or anodized? I can't tell in the picture. Where did you get the CF strap and tower?
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:21 PM
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Anodized here, just wait until he scratches it allllllllll up :P

Diggity Designs did the CF parts.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:34 PM
  #2159  
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
Black chassis looks good.
Thank you sir....

Originally Posted by Entr0phy
+1 chassis looks really good. Is it tape or anodized? I can't tell in the picture. Where did you get the CF strap and tower?
As Kevin said, I had pretty much everything anodized except the shock bodies and cartridges....

All the CF parts, http://www.diggitydesigns.com/


Originally Posted by K_King
Anodized here, just wait until he scratches it allllllllll up :P

Diggity Designs did the CF parts.

Don't be hating so soon.... Scratches are just part of the game...
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:40 PM
  #2160  
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Looks good Jayson..
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