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Old 07-31-2012, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jbempie
I think the picture is deceptive. The droop is equal to the rear. A friend at our track is setting his up using the stock shocks, so we will get some back to back testing in soon. It would be ideal to use the stock shocks, but I really think they are just too short. There is already 50wt oil in the front, and i will try both 7k and 10k in the front diff in the next few weeks. Our outside track is like running on concrete and seems to amplify steering, but our inside track has medium traction at best. so far this combo seems to be very drive able in both extremes.
I am up to 50wt as well ( i wanted 45wt. But did not have enough) and 40wt in the back. The kyosho BB springs are smooth. Diffs are at 7-10-5, I think that is where I am going to stay. Shocks positionsare now at front - top/middle, bottom/inner, rear at top/middle, bottom/outer. 2 turns on both front and rear eyelets. Camber moved to outer position on hub. All has been tested except the shock oil. I will test this new set up tomorrow on our track. Everything else,"seems" to be money so far.
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Old 08-01-2012, 09:41 PM
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My captured ends revo ends, and 50 mm for the steering, 55mm for the from camber links, and 58mm for the rear

Matt
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh


My captured ends revo ends, and 50 mm for the steering, 55mm for the from camber links, and 58mm for the rear

Matt
Dialed!!!!!
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Old 08-02-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh


My captured ends revo ends, and 50 mm for the steering, 55mm for the from camber links, and 58mm for the rear

Matt

nice work, if you want to PM me or post the part number i will sticky this info on the first post so we can always refer back to it.
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Old 08-02-2012, 04:51 PM
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Default Issue with Diffs

Well, I have one issue that has cropped up a twice now. I'm guessing its my driving or something. I have managed to chew up both the front and rear diff gear. I had taken the car apart to refresh the fluids and noticed a few teeth actually chipped off. Anyone else having issues with the diffs teeth getting chipped?
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Old 08-02-2012, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bcinntx
Well, I have one issue that has cropped up a twice now. I'm guessing its my driving or something. I have managed to chew up both the front and rear diff gear. I had taken the car apart to refresh the fluids and noticed a few teeth actually chipped off. Anyone else having issues with the diffs teeth getting chipped?
Guess I need to pull my TS4 apart and look... I did chew up a front set of gears in my 4wd buggy (gear diff) a couple weeks ago but it was the pinion gear came loose off the cvd. My fault didn't use enough lock tite.
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Old 08-02-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by hyperdesigns
Guess I need to pull my TS4 apart and look... I did chew up a front set of gears in my 4wd buggy (gear diff) a couple weeks ago but it was the pinion gear came loose off the cvd. My fault didn't use enough lock tite.
Yeah, after the first one. Ckhobby suggested going to red locktite. i had used blue locktite a little thinner i think, I looked at the pinion gear. Definitely not loose or no screw backing out. One of the chips was a big chunk of a tooth. The rear had a couple spots where the teeth where chipped. Was really looking forward to running tonight and saturday to see how these changes would do. those are the breaks though. Make sure you check yours though.
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Old 08-02-2012, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bcinntx
Well, I have one issue that has cropped up a twice now. I'm guessing its my driving or something. I have managed to chew up both the front and rear diff gear. I had taken the car apart to refresh the fluids and noticed a few teeth actually chipped off. Anyone else having issues with the diffs teeth getting chipped?
I actually did this on my truck the first time out and it was because i didnt have all of the dif case screws down tight. the holes are a touch on the small side and even though they felt tight they were not down all the way and that misaligned the gear mesh. Once i made sure and got them down all the way it has been perfect.
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Old 08-03-2012, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
I actually did this on my truck the first time out and it was because i didnt have all of the dif case screws down tight. the holes are a touch on the small side and even though they felt tight they were not down all the way and that misaligned the gear mesh. Once i made sure and got them down all the way it has been perfect.
thank you sir. I will be sure to double check this again once I get the replacements. Appreciate the input
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:55 PM
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took my ts4 out today... got two batteries through it before the esc took a dump... the car is dialed... that set-up i posted earlier is pretty awesome. im loving this truck. and the captured ends worked wonders!

Matt
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Because of the weight of this truck 4 pole is not needed, i will probably go with a 2 pole 550 eventually.I used SC10+3 wheels but they are still about 4mm too narrow.
I though the hex only allow you to use slash 4x4 wheels, sc10 4x4 wheels actually fits?
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:10 PM
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The hex's are the same size , truck runs much better with the wider offset wheels for sure. The slash wheels are only about a 1/2 mm more narrow than the stock wheels so thats about as close as you can get.
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Old 08-03-2012, 06:14 PM
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BTW tried a 6.5 540 motor yesterday...........entirely too much motor! GEEESH it was yankin the wheels everytime the front would bounce up! and it got hot quick, i had a 13t on it and im not really sure that running a 10t will be enough of a drop to keep it cool. I do like the feel of it though, its really smooth.
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Old 08-03-2012, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mdwalsh
took my ts4 out today... got two batteries through it before the esc took a dump... the car is dialed... that set-up i posted earlier is pretty awesome. im loving this truck. and the captured ends worked wonders!

Matt
Yes sir! Dialed!
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:17 AM
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Really interested in this truck, love the design as soon as I saw the first real product photo. Pretty much a durango with ability for a regular battery.
*I've heard racer need two shorty instead of saddle to make the battery last a 10 mins race.



The question right now is how's the durability of it?
The part support is nowhere near as good as the AE and losi stuff.
What spare part do I need to get it with?

I've seen the gear box is holding most of the suspension, using 3 screws on one side, so maybe some dirt cheap gear boxes in case it's stripped?
is the suspension arm strong enough after some terrible jumps? (i.e. fly high and land on one wheel)
and whether the cvd is reliable? I've bent 5 sc10 4x4 cva bones already, it's much better after putting the spacers in the shocks.

BTW, the esc can only be double sided taped on the chassis. But from my experience in sc10 4x4, no tape is strong enough to hold the esc in place after a few crashes. I've even tried 3M dual lock and it failed.
The best solution is to zip tie the esc to the chassis, but TS4 doesn't seems to have the space for it.
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