MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Got a chance to do some tuning today with my truck! Was able to get it dialed in pretty good. I think it pretty obvious that the main issue is the spring rates and i am happy with the 22T yellow rears and TLR22 oranges in the front. piston wise i ended up with RCShox 2 stage 1.1 compression 1.2 rebound 6 hole with 475F/250R CST. I started the day with red fronts and 350 oil in the front and it was a bit of a handful, it was driveable but a bit too much on edge especially on exit and i couldnt get the rear to plant on flat landings on throttle. It also wanted to nose down while jumping unless i kept a lot of throttle in the air.
So back to the pits! I went up to 475 CST in the front to compensate for the stronger orange springs , raised the ride height 1mm in the front. For the rear i lowered the ride height 1mm and mounted the shocks on the outside of the arms. Also want to add that i turned the shock eyelets out 3 turns on front and rear shocks for additional droop, may go 4 on the rear later. On the track these changes seemed to have fixed everything and i dropped almost a full second off my times! the stiffer springs got the nose higher in the air, steering was numbed down a little which was a good thing! On power rear traction was also better but not quite as stable as i would like it to be but mounting the rear shocks outside on the arms really stabilized flat landings. Next time out i am going to play with adding weight in the rear and will also drop the center dif fluid from 7 to 5k. If the truck likes the extra rear weight i will probably come up with a dual "shorty" conversion in the future! I am also going to test out 4 or 5 hole hole 2 stage pistons next week.
Current setup:
FRONT:
13* caster blocks
-1.5* camber
RCShox kyosho BB pistons 1.1/1.2
475CST PTFluid shock oil
3 turns out on eyelets/6mm limiters
middle tower/inner arm
Losi 22 orange rear springs
0 toe
REAR:
-2* camber
RCShox Kyosho BB pistons 1.1/1.2
250CST PTfluid shock oil
3 turns out on eyelets/6mm limiters
middle tower/outer arm
losi 22t yellow rear springs

5/7/3 dif oils
BrushlessHobbies LT4 120a ESC blinky mode
Tekin Pro4 4600

mdwalsh

iTrader: (29)

guessing those are the revo ends?

i also ordered some longer turnbuckles to compensate for the shortness of even the "long" revo ends.

also.... hypothetical here.... are the front and rear shock shafts shorter or longer than the shock shafts of a 22t? the springs and pistons both fit. so im wondering if we could run them and get a bunch of droop if they are longer... of course youd have to add some uptravel spacers, but youd gain droop without making the bottom link weaker by unscrewing it.

Matt

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

My kit came with a set of stock small bore shocks, i am going to see if the rear shafts will fit the front, if not we need to find out what will work, i will measure the shafts this week when i tear the truck down.
Funny thing is i havent popped a turnbuckle yet, still going to change them though.

jbempie

I had a set of T4 V2 rear shocks laying around that I mounted up front. After some testing it seems that about 2mm of droop limit is required the keep the drive shafts from popping out when the a-arms flex. I have not had to use any up-travel limiters with this set-up. It balances the droop front to rear and calms the steering down. I am also using a saddle pack set-up that seems to settle the back end down. All it took was drilling/counter sinking 4 holes, removing the stock battery "straps", installing the posts/battery hold downs from the wheeler, and turning the plastic "t" bracket that is under the rear drive shaft around. It take less than 5 min to convert back to the stick pack.

jbempie

Here's our current set up. It's very easy to drive. It will turn inside an SC10 but is stable like a Losi.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Pix please!!

bcinntx

iTrader: (9)

Not sure of the shaft length. I am going to try the 22t pistons out today if I can get out there. Going with the #55. W/40wt/f. And 35wt/r

hyperdesigns

iTrader: (2)

Had a good weekend with my TS4!!!! other than my viper system cutting out in the main.... still gave first place a good run tho. finshed second a half lap behind first. funny i fixed the thermo problem with the system by replacing the fan and now it cuts outs once in awhile... going to send in dont have another race till aug 25th

50w front with drilled pistons middle top, inside bottom
10k front
10k center
37.5w rear stock pistons middle top, outside rear
5k rear
hubs back
rec and transponder mounted in rear

the truck was planted in a very rough whooped out track(sand)

bcinntx

iTrader: (9)

nice! Went up in the diff as well, 7-10-5, i had my rec and transponder in the back, but was able to get the rec back on the server mount and moved the transponder on the front upper brace. Have shock front in middle top / inside bottom, and rear middle top and inside bottom. Did the 2 turns on front eyelet. Can't wait to see how these changes do if i can get out to the track.

hyperdesigns

iTrader: (2)

sorry I'm out 2 turns on the front shocks also

jbempie

Here's pics of the saddle pack conversion and pics of the wheeler shocks compared to the stock ones. The wheeler shocks with limiters are 96mm the stock ones are 89mm end to end. On the saddle pack conversion I had to put spacers under the posts because the batteries are so tall.

hyperdesigns

iTrader: (2)

the saddle pack conversion looks great!!!!!!! looks like a lot of droop with the buggy rear shocks.... might be good for a rough track if your looking to get rid of steering just go up on shock oil and diff oil in front. That has really calm down the steering in my truck

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

With the stock shafts you cant really run the outside mounting position on the front arms even with the eyelets turned out, the front arms are almost parallel if you do.

jbempie

I think the picture is deceptive. The droop is equal to the rear. A friend at our track is setting his up using the stock shocks, so we will get some back to back testing in soon. It would be ideal to use the stock shocks, but I really think they are just too short. There is already 50wt oil in the front, and i will try both 7k and 10k in the front diff in the next few weeks. Our outside track is like running on concrete and seems to amplify steering, but our inside track has medium traction at best. so far this combo seems to be very drive able in both extremes.

hyperdesigns

iTrader: (2)

I do agree that front shocks are a bit short but being a factory driver i trying to tune around the parts stock in the kit. I ran with one of the top 4wd sc drivers in the area last saturday and he only got me by a 1/2 lap in the main because the esc would randomly cut out.... nothing like going down the strightway and cutting out doing a 360 and back on the throttle.....lol