bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Okay, I just looked at your image. I thought the wrench and all the other weight was a joke but that was legit! The wrench for sure needs to go and the extra weight up on the tower is a really bad idea too. Adding boat loads of weight up that high is going to quickly overwhelm the chassis's leverage on the rear tires and result in crazy sliding around of the back of the truck and swapping ends. Lose the weight, make sure your diff is set pretty tightly, adjust your slipper so it isn't grabbing like a live axle (couple feet of slip on the track), and then tune your power delivery down to make it driveable.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Oh there's no question the 22 is faster. The time sheet tells the tale. The slash is just so much easier to drive. It's planted to the track because it's heavier and longer. I have since learned that 5oz. is not a lot of extra weight at this particular track. It's super SUPER hard pack usually with a layer of fluff on it depending on if it gets swept or not. And it's not smooth.
Ball diff is fresh and smooth. 1/2 to 3/4 turn on the hand spin as per youtube videos from the pro's. I've tried it looser but I get better corner speed on the rough track with it tighter. Diffout is problematic here.

If the driver could maintain lazer focus for 6 minutes it would be better but he struggles with that so we need a little more stability in the truck. LOL!

I'll get a setup sheet printed out this evening.
Thanks for the replys.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

From looking at all the stuff on the first page of this thread, I have some questions. First is with a conversion list given to upgrade from 1.0 to 2.0 of I think it was 228.00$ is there a massive advantage to doing the up grades, at this point I am only looking at actual 1.0-2.0 changes nothing fancy or bling above that. And second was there a huge handeling difference between the 2 and can a 1.0 still be competitive? I got a nice 1.0 on trade and was concidering keeping it as a second class if it is still worth anythng, and it can be competitive.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Competitive....yes. Are you going to beat a well prepared SC10.2, Losi 2.0, or SC-6? Not gonna happen. I felt the 1.0 was a pretty ill handling beast compared to my previous SC10. Upgrading to the 2.0 with at least the front and rear arms and associated suspension bits along with the bellcrank steering and machined shock inserts was worth while to me. You still end up replacing quite a few parts this way. If you enjoy upgrading trucks, go for it. Otherwise you are probably better off just buying the 2.0.

Braxamus

iTrader: (9)

Well I actuall traded a buggy for the truck, and then found out afterwards that it was a 1.0 I currently race a Ten SCTE 2.0 and was playing around with getting the 2WD version as a second class. It is in real nice shape and clean. At a mininimum what would I have to replace to get it close to the improved 22ste 2.0 it already has the exotec bellcrank steering and servo mounts and top support. Which is a start.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Where are we measuring ride height? Axle line?
How many posts before I can link a pic?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

I measure it under the front and rear contacting the chassis. To be honest, it doesn't really matter where you measure it, as long as you measure it the same way every time.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

With my 1.0 and 2.0 (converted everything but chassis) I had to ultimately kill steering.
There is almost nothing you can do to make this truck not steer.

My personal go to is 35 to 40w front shock oil with black springs and stiff sway bar. Kill steering then bring it back gradually.
Best change other than putting on dead front tires, meaning best tires available on the rear and your choice of worn or harder compound or whatever it takes up front to make it push.
My truck also has extreme rear toe and extreme rear camberlink angle. No spacers inside and maximum spacers on outside ball studs. That's the most rear grip I could dream up.
I'm even on a pretty high grip track.

That's mainly because I can't tame my driving,
Tip toeing a Short Course truck around just aint gonna happen for me.

I keep repeating what Frank R said to me, "your truck is broken but it works!"

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

The team guys measure the rear on the chassis behind the diff gear for reference.

osavage1

Hi lads, I need some help for my buddies TLR SCT. First up I'm a traxxas man. I've got a bit of experience tuning and driving pro2's, but the losi is a whole new kettle of fish. Enbasisingly I don't even know where to start. I'm not asking for a mirical, he just wants it for and indoor bitchaman/ asphalt track with wooden jumps. The biggest problem is the understeer. If anyone has a setup sheet as a start point, or suggestions it would be great. Thanks in advance and let's see if these losi's can smash my pro 2 lol.

claytrackstar

iTrader: (1)

Start with tires for sure. Talk to the fast guys at the track and basically run what they suggest! from there its impossible to suggest a setup until we know what setup is on the truck and how the track is. In a nutshell, start with the correct tires for sure and then everything else comes after.

claytrackstar

iTrader: (1)

Time to pick up the body from a scb or that other company that makes the other scb. Trim it to fit and then its time for some fun!

cm03

iTrader: (18)

I just bought the TLR bellcrank steering rack for my 22sct 1.0. I was wondering if I need to change to the spindles that came with the rack? I already have the 2.0 front hubs and spindles, but the spindles that came with the rack have a shorter arm on them. Also, what would the benefits be, if any, of changing these? Thanks!

Frank Root

iTrader: (25)

Yes, use the included bell cranks. They change the ackermann to work in unison with the bell crank system.

claytrackstar

iTrader: (1)

Run a little bit of drag brake and make sure you're running the right tires before anything else!