TLR 22SCT Thread (Check First Page for FAQ & INFO)
#8731
#8732
So I stole the shocks off my 22sct and put them on my xxx-sct. Now I need to replace those shocks. Can't decide if I should just piece shocks together for about $117 or buy another 22sct and upgrade those shocks to 2.0's for about $220. Then I could sell the extra 22sc parts I would have like chassis, shock towers, gearbox etc. Just thinking out loud. haha
#8736
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
#8737
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
I think the support kit, buggy yellow rear springs, and sway bars (more preference) and 2 hole pistons just about do it for track readiness.
also, I suggest picking up 0* castor blocks and the buggy pivot are good tuning options to have on hand as well as the support kit included parts.
I think you may want to build the kit with the new molded inner pivotballs/hollowballs, TLR234011. they should help keep the kit a little tighter over time since they eliminate metal on metal wear. and they are only $4 for 12, and you only need 4 in the build.
#8738
Tech Adept
iTrader: (27)
I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?
Thanks
Last edited by rc-racer75; 11-27-2013 at 09:08 AM. Reason: added info
#8739
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I would recommend getting the x-ring's, machined plastics, 1.6 & 1.5 pistons for shocks. I like the 22 2.0 steering rack too. Also would recommend getting either the plastic or aluminum front pivot for the buggy and use 25 kick plate. Most upgrade to the aluminum camber blocks front and rear. And the sway bars front and rear just to have the tuning option.
you have to use the X-rings and bushings together, FYI. my shocks sucked a bit of air with just the xrings and old bushings. I would suggest just playing with the plastic 25* kick, then after you have tested, you can make the investment in the aluminum pivot.
i think the aluminum front camber block is a nice option, but for the rear, I put the 10mm length ballstuds (kit is 8mm) and havent since broken a rear camber block. its like $6 for 4 ballstuds, as to much more $$ for the aluminum rear camber block.
#8740
SCT arms are approx. 95mm pin to pin and 22T are 100mm.
#8744
Tech Master
iTrader: (57)
the TLR 22SCT support kit is a very good value, it includes a plethora of parts, like springs, 5* castor blocks, body posts, A-Arms front and rear.
I think the support kit, buggy yellow rear springs, and sway bars (more preference) and 2 hole pistons just about do it for track readiness.
also, I suggest picking up 0* castor blocks and the buggy pivot are good tuning options to have on hand as well as the support kit included parts.
I think you may want to build the kit with the new molded inner pivotballs/hollowballs, TLR234011. they should help keep the kit a little tighter over time since they eliminate metal on metal wear. and they are only $4 for 12, and you only need 4 in the build.
I think the support kit, buggy yellow rear springs, and sway bars (more preference) and 2 hole pistons just about do it for track readiness.
also, I suggest picking up 0* castor blocks and the buggy pivot are good tuning options to have on hand as well as the support kit included parts.
I think you may want to build the kit with the new molded inner pivotballs/hollowballs, TLR234011. they should help keep the kit a little tighter over time since they eliminate metal on metal wear. and they are only $4 for 12, and you only need 4 in the build.
I would recommend getting the x-ring's, machined plastics, 1.6 & 1.5 pistons for shocks. I like the 22 2.0 steering rack too. Also would recommend getting either the plastic or aluminum front pivot for the buggy and use 25 kick plate. Most upgrade to the aluminum camber blocks front and rear. And the sway bars front and rear just to have the tuning option.
oh yeah, the x rings i just changed a few days ago *facepalm.
you have to use the X-rings and bushings together, FYI. my shocks sucked a bit of air with just the xrings and old bushings. I would suggest just playing with the plastic 25* kick, then after you have tested, you can make the investment in the aluminum pivot.
i think the aluminum front camber block is a nice option, but for the rear, I put the 10mm length ballstuds (kit is 8mm) and havent since broken a rear camber block. its like $6 for 4 ballstuds, as to much more $$ for the aluminum rear camber block.
you have to use the X-rings and bushings together, FYI. my shocks sucked a bit of air with just the xrings and old bushings. I would suggest just playing with the plastic 25* kick, then after you have tested, you can make the investment in the aluminum pivot.
i think the aluminum front camber block is a nice option, but for the rear, I put the 10mm length ballstuds (kit is 8mm) and havent since broken a rear camber block. its like $6 for 4 ballstuds, as to much more $$ for the aluminum rear camber block.
Taking notes, thanks fellas.
How about setup for indoor med-high bite clay, who's got the go-to setup?
And should I go RM or MM?
#8745
Roar max is 296mm. Stock 22sct is 295mm.