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Old 11-26-2013, 05:53 AM
  #8731  
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Originally Posted by Matt M.
its his setp...I cant remember where it is from...

truck arms settle the rear end down...I did it...it made a big difference
Do the truck arms make the rear wider or narrower, if so by how much?
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:40 AM
  #8732  
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So I stole the shocks off my 22sct and put them on my xxx-sct. Now I need to replace those shocks. Can't decide if I should just piece shocks together for about $117 or buy another 22sct and upgrade those shocks to 2.0's for about $220. Then I could sell the extra 22sc parts I would have like chassis, shock towers, gearbox etc. Just thinking out loud. haha
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:12 PM
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You are taking parts from a 22SCT to put on a XXX-Sct ? I thought the 22 was a better truck?
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:24 PM
  #8734  
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Originally Posted by lorinlewis23
Do the truck arms make the rear wider or narrower, if so by how much?
truck rear arms make the truck much wider in the rear.
i think they add more then what the +1.5 wide hexes will.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:02 PM
  #8735  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
truck rear arms make the truck much wider in the rear.
i think they add more then what the +1.5 wide hexes will.
Well the MIP dogbones for the 22T are 94mm and the 22SCT are 89mm. I am not positive if you actually get the full 5mm on each side or not but I definitely agree with the above post about getting more than the +1.5mm hexes.
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:01 PM
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I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?


I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?


Thanks
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Old 11-27-2013, 08:59 AM
  #8737  
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?


I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?


Thanks
the TLR 22SCT support kit is a very good value, it includes a plethora of parts, like springs, 5* castor blocks, body posts, A-Arms front and rear.
I think the support kit, buggy yellow rear springs, and sway bars (more preference) and 2 hole pistons just about do it for track readiness.

also, I suggest picking up 0* castor blocks and the buggy pivot are good tuning options to have on hand as well as the support kit included parts.

I think you may want to build the kit with the new molded inner pivotballs/hollowballs, TLR234011. they should help keep the kit a little tighter over time since they eliminate metal on metal wear. and they are only $4 for 12, and you only need 4 in the build.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:06 AM
  #8738  
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Originally Posted by BOLISARIO
I'm thinking about getting the 22 SCT, my first ever TLR, this black Friday and would like to know which parts(hop-ups, springs, or parts from other vehicles) are a must-have that are not included in the kit?


I plan to run this truck on indoor clay with med-high bite. Do you guys recommend a RR or MM setup? Who's setup should I follow for this build?


Thanks
I would recommend getting the x-ring's, machined plastics, 1.6 & 1.5 pistons for shocks. I like the 22 2.0 steering rack too. Also would recommend getting either the plastic or aluminum front pivot for the buggy and use 25 kick plate. Most upgrade to the aluminum camber blocks front and rear. And the sway bars front and rear just to have the tuning option.

Last edited by rc-racer75; 11-27-2013 at 09:08 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rc-racer75
I would recommend getting the x-ring's, machined plastics, 1.6 & 1.5 pistons for shocks. I like the 22 2.0 steering rack too. Also would recommend getting either the plastic or aluminum front pivot for the buggy and use 25 kick plate. Most upgrade to the aluminum camber blocks front and rear. And the sway bars front and rear just to have the tuning option.
oh yeah, the x rings i just changed a few days ago *facepalm.
you have to use the X-rings and bushings together, FYI. my shocks sucked a bit of air with just the xrings and old bushings. I would suggest just playing with the plastic 25* kick, then after you have tested, you can make the investment in the aluminum pivot.
i think the aluminum front camber block is a nice option, but for the rear, I put the 10mm length ballstuds (kit is 8mm) and havent since broken a rear camber block. its like $6 for 4 ballstuds, as to much more $$ for the aluminum rear camber block.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by kmh038
Well the MIP dogbones for the 22T are 94mm and the 22SCT are 89mm. I am not positive if you actually get the full 5mm on each side or not but I definitely agree with the above post about getting more than the +1.5mm hexes.
SCT arms are approx. 95mm pin to pin and 22T are 100mm.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:23 AM
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Does that make the truck too wide for roar rules, not that my track uses them but if the truck arms help and then you get used to them and have a great setup, it would be ashame to go to a big event where they check that stuff and then be too wide.
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by WIGMAN
Does that make the truck too wide for roar rules, not that my track uses them but if the truck arms help and then you get used to them and have a great setup, it would be ashame to go to a big event where they check that stuff and then be too wide.
well, 5mm per side, thats +10mm in total width.
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
well, 5mm per side, thats +10mm in total width.
Nevermind
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:32 PM
  #8744  
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
the TLR 22SCT support kit is a very good value, it includes a plethora of parts, like springs, 5* castor blocks, body posts, A-Arms front and rear.
I think the support kit, buggy yellow rear springs, and sway bars (more preference) and 2 hole pistons just about do it for track readiness.

also, I suggest picking up 0* castor blocks and the buggy pivot are good tuning options to have on hand as well as the support kit included parts.

I think you may want to build the kit with the new molded inner pivotballs/hollowballs, TLR234011. they should help keep the kit a little tighter over time since they eliminate metal on metal wear. and they are only $4 for 12, and you only need 4 in the build.
Originally Posted by rc-racer75
I would recommend getting the x-ring's, machined plastics, 1.6 & 1.5 pistons for shocks. I like the 22 2.0 steering rack too. Also would recommend getting either the plastic or aluminum front pivot for the buggy and use 25 kick plate. Most upgrade to the aluminum camber blocks front and rear. And the sway bars front and rear just to have the tuning option.
Originally Posted by AndrewTom
oh yeah, the x rings i just changed a few days ago *facepalm.
you have to use the X-rings and bushings together, FYI. my shocks sucked a bit of air with just the xrings and old bushings. I would suggest just playing with the plastic 25* kick, then after you have tested, you can make the investment in the aluminum pivot.
i think the aluminum front camber block is a nice option, but for the rear, I put the 10mm length ballstuds (kit is 8mm) and havent since broken a rear camber block. its like $6 for 4 ballstuds, as to much more $$ for the aluminum rear camber block.


Taking notes, thanks fellas.


How about setup for indoor med-high bite clay, who's got the go-to setup?

And should I go RM or MM?
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Old 11-27-2013, 12:37 PM
  #8745  
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Originally Posted by WIGMAN
Does that make the truck too wide for roar rules, not that my track uses them but if the truck arms help and then you get used to them and have a great setup, it would be ashame to go to a big event where they check that stuff and then be too wide.
Roar max is 296mm. Stock 22sct is 295mm.
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