here is what I would do. Use the kit tires up front for now. Pick up some greem compound DD's or some AKA enduros for the rear. The truck has a lot of steering and most people new to the truck will use a less aggressive tire up front to clam it down. I did this for my kid while she learns to drive. She runs worn DD's front and new AKA enduros rear. When you set your ride height, set the front to be slightly higher than the rear, run your battery back. Have fun.

I ran the softest throttle profile and most drag break (10%) at first to try and keep the rear end more under control. Also ran a 22 pinion with a heat sink on the motor.

Be prepared for the stock servo to take a crap. Mine lasted 2-3 track days, and 2 of my buddies had theres last about the same. Also listen for the diff to start making noise in about the same time frame.

Get the factory team solid axle pins

anyone here been using the new 12mm bigbore shocks on their rig with good results? how are they and what springs are you using?

xDirtyx speaks the truth. The stock servo on my SC10RS died a few weeks ago. Thankfully, one of the staff at the local track had a spare JR9100T servo that he sold me (yes, I am aware that 300+oz of torque is overkill for a 2wd short course). I've also been through about 5 of the rolled axle pins in about 1 month. I just purchased some STRC aluminum hexes and MIP axle pins to see if that resolves the problem. Unfortunately, I was only able to run them for 2 runs before the stock Reedy 3300kv motor decided that it wanted to end this world and leave in a puff of smoke before the triple.

Last night, the stock servo in my SC10 4x4 failed in the same manner and in the same place as the stock servo in my SC10RS. Medium jump before a sweeper to the left. Picked up a Savox 1256 from the local Hobbytown on my way back home.

Has anyone run 22 buggy rear springs in White or yellow and been able to acheive rear ride height ok? with the V2 small bore shocks.
I dont like how the softer 22T springs bow/buckle really bad and wanted to try the buggy springs but they look shorter

I believe yellow rears are used. white might be too soft. For the fronts, its losi green truck fronts.

yeah, the rtr electronics are not up to par. IMO there really is no need for rtr with the better/cheaper Chinese stuff. If I bought an RTR, I would ebay the electronics and buy what I wanted.

Got my RS RTR Combo upgraded for electronics. Went with a BH 80A ESC, Revtech Maxilla 17.5 (running blinky only in this truck) and Savox 1258. So I'm good on electronics now. Time to move on. I will be ordering the B4 Rear Hub Carriers and required bearing and crush tub.

Wondering about the CVA's. I noticed last night when I added my Avid clamp on hexes that the rear CVA's slid in/out to the point that the outer bearing come close to coming out of the hub carrier. Is that normal? Or will that be fixed with the B4 hub?

Second question is on the shocks. The RS comes with the V2 Coil Over shocks. Should I look to upgrade those or are people having luck with them? If upgrade, are people running the new AE BB's? Can I use the Avid springs on the stock shocks, or do I need AE springs? Shock and Shock Setups are still foggy to me. I havent' completely grasped the shock thing yet.

you need to 'pull' the axle out while 'pushing' the clamping hub toward the bearing and then clamp it on. there should be very little to no play in the axle.

umm, are you sure you want the AE alum hubs? they really do suck. They are all loose and floppy. What toe are you looking for on the hubs? Also, exotek release some pretty sexy hubs for the sc10/t4/b4. vertical ball studs are sexy.

http://www.exotekracing.com/b4-b44-s...-rear-hub-set/

ok, on the shock. If you are a new driver then use the blues until you get better. If you are an experience racer, I would get the BB shocks and AE springs. If you are new and rich and have money to throw away, same as above, get BB shocks and AE springs.

If the rtr shocks are like new, run them till they wear out and ge the BB shocks. Honestly, if your new to racing, you wont even be able to fell the difference. Your better off buying tires and spending time at the track.

+1 once the hex is tightened, you should NOT be able to move the axle in and out. I use the avid hexes and they are very good. Pretty too.

The clamps were pushed on till they hit the pins. I'll post up a video tonight to illustrate. It will be much easier that way.

I'm just looking for 0* for now. Wish I would have seen those. I just placed an order over the weekend for the saddle conversion for the sc1044 chassis.

maybe using the wrong hex then, there are 4 different ones available. B4 front / rear and sc10 front / rear.