what did you break ?

Was breaking the rear diff case where the wing mounts but they fixed that.
Now once in a blue moon on a really bad landing I'll snap an a arm but it's gotta basically land sideways from a huge jump to do it. I get away with that a few times before it snaps. It's a tough buggy! I just ordered a 410 for my son. His slash 4x4 breaks every time we run so I'm hoping the 410 and my eb48 gives us a few hours of bashing instead of fixing lol.

The important parts to upgrade from the very original to the V2 for bashing would be to get the 4 extra tough arms. They were optional on the original, and the .2 came with them, making the lighter weight original arms the option instead.

The rear transmission housing I would consider an option. It straightens the driveline for less wear in the back, and gives the larger bearing, but I've never had problems with the originals and I raced them for years multiple times a week. Having a spare on hand is not bad, especially if you do a lot of wing first landings (this is one type of crash I very rarely do...though I certainly crash plenty in other ways).

In all cases, get an aluminum servo horn if your servo doesn't come with one.

Lastly, since you mentioned an SCT410 for your kid, if you're just bashing all the time, consider grabbing the M2C 17mm hex conversion for the SCT410, allowing you to run normal eBuggy tires so you can share. They're slightly larger in diameter so you may need to mount a body higher, but the M2C keeps the same offset so you should be ok otherwise. Don't use the Tekno ones for the SC, they make it wider like a buggy and then bodies won't fit as the wheels will stick out the sides.

Share your thoughts on this ... Right now I have a buggy that has fioroni pistons and X ray progressive springs on it . I had these on my old buggy and liked them so much I just carried them over to the new car . I have a great setup on the car from a local team driver with the exception of these parts. My car is unstable when the chassis gets upset, kicks up, or lands funny . It just kind of dances around until you either crash or work it out . I want to switch over to a all linear set up , and I have the springs and oils etc that were originally used in the set up I was given . I do not have the 6 x 1.5 pistons. I DO have Blue csi pistons in my et48 and thought about trying those before I went $25 lighter in the wallet just to test something . Anyone have experience comparing the blue csi pistons to the 6x1.5 tekno pistons ? Will they be so different its not really a good test ?

I would spend the money and get the proper pistons. They really make the car very stable.

6x1.5 pistons
Front:37.5 wt oil w/ pink springs
Rear: 30.0 wt oil w/ red springs
"It just works!!"

I have the csi and a team driver told me to dump them and get the 6x1.5 to get This.

I run blue csi pistons and love the way the buggy feels

Sorry for the off-topic question (it's an SCT410 question but directly related), but do you know if this is a good combo for the '410 also? Aside from the pistons (I have been using 8x1.3) the rest of the setup you mention above is shockingly close to what I use. I'm wondering what the result would be keeping my springs and oils the same and just trying the 6x1.5).

8x1.3 piston' holes area is similar to 6x1.5 piston, so basically you can use same oils, but due to smaller holes diameter 8x1.3 gives you a bit more pack, so buggy gona land a bit better but handle rough sections a bit worse.
It's a good tuning math for me now, i have one set of 8x1.3 and one set of 6x1.5, also have NB with vented caps and EB with non-vented. Now i'm trying EB with 1.3 and non-vented caps, but thinking about switching caps with NB

What battery connector do you guys prefer on this buggy? Seen some info that says a deans isn't capable of carrying the necessary amount of current flow, etc, etc.

Just curious to hear some opinions and or data. First 1/8 scale so I'm a little in the dark.

Thanks in advance!

I prefer bullet connectors directly to the battery. But I didn't have that option two years ago when I got a 4s battery that came with deans connectors. Never had a problem with the deans on it yet.

I prefer direct bullets as well, use them on all my other cars, just not a ton of battery options out there in that configuration for 1/8 scale is there?

Deans work great as long as they're genuine deans and they're not worn out. If the connection starts feeling rather warm immediately after a run, it may be time to replace the connectors. Once my current set wears out, I'll be trying out the XT90s that I got, as they show just as low a resistance on my Fluke meter and should be easier to work with on the 10g wire.

Anyone looking for a brand new Tekno lite tapered front/ctr drive shaft For Eb48 or Et48? They are 10 grams lighter than stock!
Pls msg me