Did you drive it with the stock setup?
Try putting the rear shock one hole towards the inside, and dropping the rear camber links one hole on the tower.

Overall the stock setup makes the buggy feel a little like a monster truck. the front and specially the rear shocks are too soft oil wise.

You can try lengthening the rear camber link and/or swapping sway bars front/rear.

No, i am not using the stock setup. I picked the buggy up in a trade lightly used and just ran it as is to since I'm in a bind for time to be ready for this weekend. The shocks seem good to me. Running the fironi pistons with 37.5f/30r, yellow springs.

I need to get your whole setup next time I see you to try out as well.

I will lengthen the camber links and am going to drop the rear tower link to the middle inside hole instead of the top one since that seems common among setups. I am running on a loose outdoor track this weekend so I better just try it out first as is to see what it is like before making the changes though as I have never raced on a track like that.

Thanks for the help.

Without knowing your complete setup, and answering you question as to a "quick fix", 3 ways to gain rear stability (I assume you mean traction) is to lower the rear Roll Center and shorten the wheel base at the rear and raise the front Roll Center.

LOWERING REAR ROLL CENTER
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To lower the rear Roll Center to its lowest position with the suspension geometry, place the rear camber link in the following positions:

1.) On the Shock Tower: Inner, Upper Hole
2.) On the Wheel Hub: Outer Most Hole

Some of us have lowered the Roll Center even more using the LRC inserts made by one of our members here on RCTech (Protc3). If you do not have those, the above rear camber link settings is the most you can adjust the geometry to lower the rear Roll Center.


SHORTENING THE WHEEL BASE
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For the shortest wheel base, place ALL of the rear hub spacers BEHIND the hub on the hinge pin, making the wheel base as short as can be set.


RAISING FRONT ROLL CENTER
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To raise the front Roll Center to its highest position with the suspension geometry, place the front camber link in the following positions:

1.) On the Shock Tower: Lower, Outer Hole
2.) On the Wheel Hub: Inner Most Hole

Depending on your other settings, and just how close they are to being correct for your driving style, this should actually cause your buggy to push, or be sluggish in the turns (possibly solving your problem of rear end instability "too good"). If you start with these 3 extreme adjustments, you can back some of them out (just do 1 or 2 of the 3), or learn more about the ability to relocate the camber link mounting positions to fine tune your Roll Centers, front and rear.

Jim

Thanks. I should have enough time to try a few of those things out tomorrow.

Are you running at flowood? There are 4-5 guys running there successfully and we all run a little different setups.

Normally I am at FRC, but I'll be going out of town to race this weekend for something different. When I get back I plan on trying some of the local setups.

If you dont have them get the lrc inserts from protc3 on this forum. Thoes lock in the rear end on exit under power alot.

Hey guys just thought I'd post this up. Tekno has some new diff shims in. Around here there have been a few guys with issues with the silver ones becoming concave and messing up diffs. Here's a link
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5145b...-6pcs-revised/

Icero try lighter fluid in center diff, as it seems to be on power first place i would look at is diffs.

You're coming up to MX Wildflower, right? I'll be there early tomorrow morning with my EB48.2. I'm going to start with mine setup exactly per the manual. I don't know about the new track layout, of course, but I thought it was running pretty decent out there on the last layout, stock.

I'm slow and inexperienced but I would be glad to compare notes and see if we can find something that works well. Looks like we have a Tekno sponsored driver coming who has offered to help as well. I'll have an ET48 and a EB48.2, both orange on top and blue on the bottom with white wheels.

-Chris

Diff case #5 and 4th carbon tower. This was a new kit a lil over a month ago. Getting old...

Wow! How in the world did that happen? If you keep breaking carbon towers, it's probably time to just stick with the aluminum towers!

Are you landing on the back of the wing a lot, or have people love to full speed into it when you slow to take a turn at the end of the straight? Only time I've ever seen something like that is when Blair landed square on the back wing from about 2.5 stories in the air as part of a big air contest.

Slim IMO keep the aluminum tower on it, theres a lot of leverage stressing that area when it lands on the wing, and no room for error when crashing or getting hit. Knock on wood I never have broke one with the aluminum tower. Inside or outside.