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How has balance been when you run heavy packs?

Right now, I want to kind of wait and see how things go for next years battery selection, but, I do have promatchs 7200mah packs in 2S config, I figure if an event comes up that I need some batts, I can just that nice adapter male to male plug they have and run those.

That or the other way around. The .2's shock bodies have a larger whole in the piece that separates the shock fluid from the o-ring area. If that hole is smaller, then you have a .1 shock body and the updated .2 insert isn't going to fit.

The parts tree still has the .1 inserts you can use, but the updated insert is better.

Yeah, the .2 parts fit around your shaft tighter.

yea but whats the minimum # of screws per type?

anyone know where to get a list of all the screws in the eb and sct?

its in your manual

OK, thanks... I think was misunderstanding how the pivot ball and the washers were.

How important is that part in red, and what is its effect?

I did the other mods, but I still have 2 washers on top and bottom both at the hubs and the ackerman plate.

It's important if you want the full bump in effect. I kept 1 under on the hub side.

The point is to get a setting above and beyond what can be reached with just moving the washers. The while point to the washers is to give adjustability to the link settings.

As for the effects heres the notes from Hudy:
Bump steer is a front suspension tuning option commonly used in off-road RC racing to change steering characteristics over rough and loose terrain. Bump steer occurs when a car’s front toe angle changes as the suspension compresses or rebounds, which affects how parallel the front wheels are.

More bump steer(wheels more parallel under compression)
- Increases steering in mid-corner
- Steering may become “twitchy”
- Easier to control on smooth tracks

Less bump steer (wheels open more under compression)
- Decreases steering in mid-corner
- Smoother steering response
- Better on rough or bumpy tracks

HOW TO ADJUST:
More bump steer = Steering rod becomes more angled (away from horizontal)
Less bump steer = Steering rod becomes more horizontal

Here's a quick question on rear camber link, cause I think I confused my self... LOL

The backend washes out sometimes when i get on power from exiting a corner. I'm wondering if it's cause I have too light of a 4s Lipo (13oz) and my typical 4s is 17oz.

My first thought is to maybe try without the Rear Chassis Brace.

To help plant it a little better, would I lower the rear camber link on tower to the lower inside hole.... or raise one hole on tower??

I currently have the rear hub sitting in the middle of arm.
Camber link sitting Middle Inside on tower and "C" on Hub, Lower hub hinge pin is outer hole.
DIFFs are 7-7-4
Track is smooth hard pack clay

When you raise the link it will squat the rear in a turn..
When you make the link long it will give more traction on acceleration and turning by keeping the wheels camber from changing as much..

do you guys recommend the +2 or +1mm hexes for 48.2 buggy?
im placing an order and remember reading something about it
I mainly run on
loose to medium traction tracks

Hi
If you want more bump steer my suggestion would be to flip the pillow ball on ankerman side aswell low side touching ankerman plate with 4 washers under high side of pillow ball
This will increase the angle of steering link futher again with the mod on the hub side aswell

I'm almost done with my eb48.2 build...I'm getting stoked to kick my buddies mp9e off the track!