I got my eb48 tonight, and am looking for a good starting point for the setup. Here is a pic of the track, it is medium to high bite low to mid 30sec laps and stays fairly smooth.

Did what cain recommended and put 2K in the rear diff. Has a ton of grip, no sliding at all, and still has plenty of steering (a little too much). On my hardpacked, loose, bumpy outdoor track, my car was hooked up. Really liked it, and i think i'll set my front toe out to zero, instead of the .5 it's at now to get a little less rotation.

Yea, but if JC hasn't released any pics or info yet its kind of hard for Tower to publish. It's a Finnisher body, just go look at all the other 1/8 Finnisher bodies and you will get somewhat of an idea. Very Cab forward.....

My bad.

Bortzilla, I am shocked. We have seen a dramatic decline in broken front arms since releasing the heavy duty arms. What conditions are you running in? Is it extremely cold? Are you hitting a lot of obstacles?

Man Bort, you must be pretty rough on them.

I beat on my car like a rented mule and the only time I've broken anything was from hitting the end of a pipe off landing a triple.

HAHAHAHA thats awesome!

But pretty much sums up the way I treat mine, and I'm still on my kit set of arms.

The key is a good ole 10 minute boil

My fault

Impact with immovable objects...

Just messing with ya! I haven't tried the HD arms I'm still on my original kits from a year ago as well. Seems like an odd number of failures in your case.

This is the dark side of utlra-light buggies. The same problem exists on the ECO. Everyone wants light weight, but that usually means more brittle.

This car is far from brittle, but people will find a way to break anything. Of course their own driving, or lack thereof is never the culprit.

So even the new kits have the v1 a-arms?

Glad it helped! I was reaching for anything at the time when I was at the track as the conditions were so slick the vehicle was just too squirelly. When I finally made that change, I couldn't believe how much MORE traction I had.

I think 2K Rear is going to be my starting setting for both my SCT410 and EB48.

What did you settle on for Front and Center diff fluids?

From what I recall last time talking to them they were going to continue with the V1 a-arms. Personally I hope they change there mind not so much from the position of beefier arms, but the different shock mounting locations on them.

This might have been answered elsewhere in the thread but I don't remember seeing it:
Why are the Tekno rear springs so light compared to the other manufacture's rears??? The stiffest Tekno rear (red) is 2.93 and the Kyosho's start at 2.95 and go up. I'm trying to decide what spring package to use to tune.

Also, are the Associated Rc8 8 hole tapered 1.3's (ASC89459) very different from the Kyosho white 8 1.3's ? I haven't seen anyone mention this as a viable alternative to the Kyosho's. Why?
Love this buggy!!! Went to huge tri-state race (50 E bugies) and a lot of fast guys there and qualified 6th in the A. Almost all of the A main drivers were sponsored drivers.

All the weight on the EB48 is up front or in the middle (ESC, battery, motor) compare to the others have more weight on the back of the buggy.