RC10T4.1 Thread.

Old 01-25-2012, 09:35 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by IOP_Racer View Post
The difference in the tranny is the ball diff right? The truck I am looking at has Lunsford titanium turnbuckles and GH aluminum front bulkhead. He is asking 100 for the roller. I am almost positive it is the RTR. Good price?
You can score a factory team version in the classifieds for 150ish

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Check out the awesome aerial shots one of our local dirt oval club members took of the new track site. They were flying overhead when we were working on Sunday. You can get an idea of how big the new off road track will be when you compare it to the 10ft by 6ft sections of stand we have laying in front of it. Check out the ridiculously bad a$$ banked dirt oval they built right next to it. You can already see the groove forming from the air and they've only been racing 3 weeks at the new site.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/florida-...peedway-2.html

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Old 01-26-2012, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by IOP_Racer View Post
Is there a mod for a +8 chassis for the t4? I know I saw one for an AE 2wd but it could have been the buggy. How does the t4.1 compare to the 22T in durability and handling? I am thinking of getting a used t4.1 to race. Any thing I should know? Any recent worlds parts or anything? Is the factory team much better than the rtr?
The T4 is a masterpiece for racing. I've got an RCRD aluminum +4mm chassis for it. The previous owner of the truck ran it outdoors and loved it. I haven't tried it yet.
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
The T4 is a masterpiece for racing. I've got an RCRD aluminum +4mm chassis for it. The previous owner of the truck ran it outdoors and loved it. I haven't tried it yet.
pics?
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron P View Post
If you want to try bladders in your Associated shocks, you can use the ones in the VCS2 upgrade kit, but don't use those caps....use the bleeder caps, but don't put the screw in. When built properly, the bladder won't let oil by, and by leaving the bleeder screw out, the hole in the cap will relieve the pressure as the shock is compressed.

I've never noticed a performance advantage or disadvantage running the shocks this way, they're just different.
What advantage will the bleeder caps provide over the ones that come in the kit that I drilled?
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:32 AM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by ufoDziner View Post
What advantage will the bleeder caps provide over the ones that come in the kit that I drilled?
I would imagine none at all. Can't see a difference in having bleeder caps with the screw out as apposed to regular ones with a drilled hole.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinecken View Post
I would imagine none at all. Can't see a difference in having bleeder caps with the screw out as apposed to regular ones with a drilled hole.
It seems to me that the vsc2 caps have more seating area, and would be less likely to have the bladders get pulled in.

I re-bled one of the rears last night for a test. Initially I bled them similarly to the emulsion style and was happy with the results. Last night I put the shaft at ride height and then installed the bladder and cap. With this technique the shaft would lock ~1/4" prior to full compression. I think that the bladder is impacting the cap at that point. So, tonight I'm going to see if I can test the extension with a clear cap to see how far the bladder is actually stretching with my current configuration.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:40 PM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by Cummins Driver View Post
Figured id post some pictures of my T4. I havent had it long. Its a little different than most of the talk in here because I bought mine with intentions of finding a good basher that also handled well. I have been running stampede's for years and decided i wanted to try a stadium truck after my last stampede. I bought this T4 and love it so far. I have broken a couple small things, but i feel after some little upgrades it will be a really strong truck. The stampede is more durable, but the T4 out handles it by a lot and is much easier to control with brushless power. Not to mention the transmission is whisper quiet and smooth as glass

I also just bought a T4.1 and had plans to sell it, but my wife says she likes it better than her stampede she runs, so its staying too. No pictures of it yet, but here is mine:

What wheels and tires are those? and what did you do to make them fit?
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by brad1161 View Post
What wheels and tires are those? and what did you do to make them fit?
I replied to your E-Mail, but for anyone else wondering they are Losi Smasher XL 320 series wheels and tires. They come pre-mounted and bolt on with no modifications at all.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ufoDziner View Post
What advantage will the bleeder caps provide over the ones that come in the kit that I drilled?
Originally Posted by Hinecken View Post
I would imagine none at all. Can't see a difference in having bleeder caps with the screw out as apposed to regular ones with a drilled hole.
By using the standard bladder and a bleeder cap without the bleeder screw, your leaving a "vent" for air between the bladder and the actual cap itself.

If your using a bladder, and set your shocks via the same method as I outlined in a previous post - you may actually inccur negative pressure in your shock. --- Compressing the shock to "bleed" it pushes out the air, then you tighten down the screw creating a vacuum. You will know you did this when you extend the shock to full length, let go, and it sucks back into the shock body a few mm's.

Leaving the screw out, you create a vent chamber. air in, air out. the bladder will stop leakage, the shock will act slightly different (for me it seems like its "bumpy")

I have been cutting out bladders for as long as I can remember... They just feel the smoothest and most reactive.
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:54 PM
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I was reading through some set ups and noticed bump steer wahsers as a tuning aid. What do the bump steer washers due and where do they go?
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by IOP_Racer View Post
I was reading through some set ups and noticed bump steer wahsers as a tuning aid. What do the bump steer washers due and where do they go?
Click the Best link a racer could ever want <<<---

I set it to answer your question, and so many more...
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Old 01-26-2012, 07:33 PM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by SirKarnage View Post
Click the Best link a racer could ever want <<<---

I set it to answer your question, and so many more...
That site has been bookmarked on the home screen of my iPhone for quite a while now. I reference it almost every time I hit the track.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinecken View Post
That site has been bookmarked on the home screen of my iPhone for quite a while now. I reference it almost every time I hit the track.
If only so many other people did, lol
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:59 PM
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So tonight I removed the shock cap from the right rear, compressed the shock, then installed the bladder and let it extend fully under spring pressure. If I had my calipers handy I would have measured the displacement. :-/ It looks like maybe 3/16 deflection, which is less than I thought it would be. The following pics are of the bladder with the shock under full extension.

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Old 01-27-2012, 11:55 AM
  #330  
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after hearing that you guys are only getting 1-2mm of rebound after building your shocks, I went ahead and attempted to redo mine to achieve the same result. 2 hours, some cussing, and 4 beers and I still can't get less than 4mm. I'm going to pick up the bleeder caps tonight and see if that helps.

Has anyone been able to get 1-2mm of rebound using the standard (non-bleeder) shock caps? If so, HOW?? I've followed directions to the T, and even let the shocks sit overnight before I bled them.
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