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Old 01-27-2012, 11:32 AM
  #331  
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Painted and decaled a body for my T4.1 yesterday!



Really excited to get this truck up and running, big thanks to The Big RC for set-up advice for our local track!

(Sorry about the Kyosho, everything not blue is vinyl!)
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:21 PM
  #332  
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what body is that?

I got in my FT T4.1 and it looks pretty good.

Will be selling a large lot of Yellow QC wheels with tires mounted and a nice custom body if anyone interested.

anyway, time to give it the tear down!
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Old 01-27-2012, 04:54 PM
  #333  
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It's the Proline Bulldog body. Seems to be the most popular body at our local track, so since I needed a body, I figured I'd go with that.

I lost another Tekin this week so the truck probably won't see the track until Tuesday. Really anxious to wheel a stadium truck again!
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:32 PM
  #334  
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I went with another FTW Night Fox XL. Angy bird style.

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Old 01-27-2012, 09:00 PM
  #335  
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
after hearing that you guys are only getting 1-2mm of rebound after building your shocks, I went ahead and attempted to redo mine to achieve the same result. 2 hours, some cussing, and 4 beers and I still can't get less than 4mm. I'm going to pick up the bleeder caps tonight and see if that helps.

Has anyone been able to get 1-2mm of rebound using the standard (non-bleeder) shock caps? If so, HOW?? I've followed directions to the T, and even let the shocks sit overnight before I bled them.
It's been a while since I've bled a set, before bleeder caps or V2s even. Follow all te same steps the guy gave you a couple pages back. Once you get enough oil bled out to where the shaft can be bottomed out against the shock body, that's basically about where you want to be. At this point if you just push the shaft in and release, it will come out about 4mm as you're describing. This is also about where you want to be. Run the shaft in and out rapidly by hand about 3-4 times and on the last stroke release as soon as it contacts the body. It should only come out the 2mm as everyone is saying, and you're golden. Hope that helps
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:01 AM
  #336  
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Has anyone tried this on there T-4? A friend told me about this and said it works great on the B4,

Thanks
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by moto44
Has anyone tried this on there T-4? A friend told me about this and said it works great on the B4,

Thanks
Sorry the link did not attach on the first post

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9873/
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:10 AM
  #338  
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Originally Posted by moto44
Sorry the link did not attach on the first post

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9873/
I run it on mine and it's hooked up with the 0 degree hubs! I also grind down the mount on the bulkhead so I can lower the ballstud there too.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:13 AM
  #339  
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for those interested I mounted the GPM steering setup other than the steering rack link. everything bolted up fine, no issues.

Will race tomorrow so will report back what I think.

Will be using an airtronics 94358 servo in the SC10 and a JR 9100S servo in the T4.
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by moto44
Sorry the link did not attach on the first post

http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9873/
My wife runs them on hers with the shaved u-brace as well and is quite happy.
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:34 PM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by Cain
for those interested I mounted the GPM steering setup other than the steering rack link. everything bolted up fine, no issues.

Will race tomorrow so will report back what I think.

Will be using an airtronics 94358 servo in the SC10 and a JR 9100S servo in the T4.
That was the one I posted a link for a few pages back right? Can't wait to hear what you think.

Update on my rebound issues. Bought the bleeder caps and WoW! Sooo much easier to work with. Managed 1-2mm of rebound on my first try.

I also cleaned the grease out of the diff and replaced it with 3 parts 5000wt and 1 part 2000wt. Gives me an avg of 4250wt. Diff feels quite a bit tighter but not overly tight. Anxious to give it a try.

Question, after putting the trans back together, I noticed it had some resistance, obviously this shouldn't be there. What should I check first?
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:07 PM
  #342  
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
Question, after putting the trans back together, I noticed it had some resistance, obviously this shouldn't be there. What should I check first?
First? ... check to make sure you didn't over tighten the bolts.
That's generally what it is.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:10 PM
  #343  
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any one have cav crcrc set up?
or something more up to date then what on ae site?
and what big bore springs have you guys been running
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Old 01-28-2012, 08:45 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by porkchop
any one have cav crcrc set up?
or something more up to date then what on ae site?
and what big bore springs have you guys been running
i got tlr green / white on my truck. you going to arcs tomorrow ?
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:16 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by SirKarnage
First? ... check to make sure you didn't over tighten the bolts.
That's generally what it is.
And so it was..


Just ordered a cheap exi servo from hobbypartz.com to replace the craptastic RTR servo that comes with the truck. I'm willing to take a $15 risk that this may be a great servo before I plunk down the money on a name brand one. I know I love my cheap Gens Ace batteries, it's worth another shot on a servo. Stay tuned
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