Originally Posted by SirKarnage

Yes, the T4 can be just as competitive as the 4.1. they are still the same truck.
The 4.1 only has update/upgrades out of the box.

First take all the "aluminum" this and thats out of the equation. These are helpful parts, not "needed" parts.
you can get the same degree of perfermance out of the plastics.

Secondly, the plastics themselves. In regards to your Plastics/Carbon/Graphite question:
Each form of part has different characteristics in certain climates/track conditions...
Plastics generally provide more flex, whereas the carbons are stiffer..less flex.
Plastics will hold up better in the cold and likewise the carbon tends to be brittle.
Which also leads me into the RPM comment... Those are aftermarket.
they tend to hold up better than stocks and have that RPM warranty (if your willing to ship them in)..
For the shocks, the V2's are hands down the best improvement on the truck in my opinion.

Originally Posted by SirKarnage

Ok, works like a charm .. poor pics via my crackberry phone, but you will get the idea. It's rather simple and inexpensive.

Parts needed:

ASC9880 - SC10 Steering block Hex
ASC9598 - CVD Axle (these are easier to cut then the CVA's or older style)
I scavenged the remaining parts from a donor B4 or parts boxes...which you could scavenge all parts easily.
ASC9608B - FT rear wheel axle spacer
Misc Axle shims - 2 axle wheel pins (actually had to buy 2 - standard ones where too small for these older style axles!!)
Misc Wheel Nuts - 2 for new front axles
Ball stud nuts - 2 (new carries take nuts in recessed underside)
Reuse same bearrings as with front wheels...

There are only 2 mods that must be done, firstly you need to cut the "ball" off of the CVD axle, leaving just enough meat on the end of the axle to hold in the steering block.
I did not take a picture during this step. but here is link to the pic on Asso Parts house.. again, I chose this axle due to the ease of cut, your choice really...



And here, it's installed, complete on the truck...


The other "mod" you need to do, is take an exacto knife and
chuck out the small thin plastic inside the steering block where the hinge pin goes.
(the b4 hex conversion axles have a groove in them to compensate for this, I'm not skilled enough with a dremel to do that to the axles)
The plastic removed is very very very small. its just enough to round out the whole so the axle does not bind, but leaves a retainer for the bearings.
If I would have had a round needle file, it would have been perfect.

Thats the gist of it.
Would be SOOO much nicer looking if Associated would make the Hex axle for the T4!!!!! and I didnt suck so bad at dremel work

I can now swap wheels from front to back, etc real easily. I can go to Hex's if I wish, or stick with the pin wheels..
And Until JConcepts makes a Rulux Hex wheel like my fav's here... I will !!

Originally Posted by SirKarnage

Yes, those will fit and work properly in a T4/4.1

Originally Posted by Hinecken

I just called Lunsford and was told no, but they do make a T4/4.1 axle, it's just not on the website.

That being said. Back before I fell out of touch with the hobby, Lunsford was a pretty reputable company. How does everyone feel about them and their products now?

Anyone have experience with their axles? Good or bad?

Originally Posted by SirKarnage

I may have not read your post correctly. Was going off of the B4/T4/SC10 interchangability that I have used for years.
(Like putting the B4 drilled axles on my T4's even though they are not **were not until recently** designated by name for it, they fit and work just fine)

As for Lunsford... I have always used their products. I just wish they were not so expensive.
I race my vehicles and put thier turnbuckles on all of them If i can.
(and their axles were on my trucks before)

Again this is only my opinion, and everyone has one.

Originally Posted by Timmahhh

Looks like it'll work well. I didn't see if you covered this, but why wouldn't the sc10rs hex setup work?

Originally Posted by Hinecken

Thanks! Anyone else have an opinion or experience with Lunsford products?

Originally Posted by SirKarnage

Yes, the T4 can be just as competitive as the 4.1. they are still the same truck.
The 4.1 only has update/upgrades out of the box.

First take all the "aluminum" this and thats out of the equation. These are helpful parts, not "needed" parts.
you can get the same degree of perfermance out of the plastics.

Secondly, the plastics themselves. In regards to your Plastics/Carbon/Graphite question:
Each form of part has different characteristics in certain climates/track conditions...
Plastics generally provide more flex, whereas the carbons are stiffer..less flex.
Plastics will hold up better in the cold and likewise the carbon tends to be brittle.
Which also leads me into the RPM comment... Those are aftermarket.
they tend to hold up better than stocks and have that RPM warranty (if your willing to ship them in)..
For the shocks, the V2's are hands down the best improvement on the truck in my opinion.

Originally Posted by racer1812

^^^ agree.

As far as racing, I'm not a big fan of RPM parts, only because they flex different than the stock parts. Making it harder to get setup info/comparisons from other racers.

I'm still running a T4, with some .1 parts. Shocks, slipper, and certain chassis parts...

Originally Posted by daverobbo5

Thank you.

In the picture of truck one(with the RPM arms) you might notice RTR style shocks without threaded cylinders.
Is this how the FT started or is this an early RTR?? (sliver/aluminium shock bodies as opposed to blue anodized aluminium)

Originally Posted by daverobbo5

Thank you.

In the picture of truck one(with the RPM arms) you might notice RTR style shocks without threaded cylinders.
Is this how the FT started or is this an early RTR?? (sliver/aluminium shock bodies as opposed to blue anodized aluminium)

Originally Posted by daverobbo5

Thanks for the reply.

It seems that most people list the shocks and slipper as an essential change to keep the T4/B4 competitive. It's not just that the V2 are easier to rebuild.

Are/do the V2's actually a better shock/provide superior dampening?

Originally Posted by Hinecken

As far as I know, factory team kits always had threaded bodies.

Originally Posted by IRM616

What's a good Tekin mod motor for a 6800 sq ft clay track. I wanna go fast. Thanks

Originally Posted by Hinecken

As far as I know, factory team kits always had threaded bodies.

Originally Posted by daverobbo5

Thank you.

In the picture of truck one(with the RPM arms) you might notice RTR style shocks without threaded cylinders.
Is this how the FT started or is this an early RTR?? (sliver/aluminium shock bodies as opposed to blue anodized aluminium)

Originally Posted by daverobbo5

Thanks for the reply.

It seems that most people list the shocks and slipper as an essential change to keep the T4/B4 competitive. It's not just that the V2 are easier to rebuild.

Are/do the V2's actually a better shock/provide superior dampening?

Originally Posted by Hinecken

As far as I know, factory team kits always had threaded bodies.