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Old 11-20-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by joshuabordner View Post
JUST ORDERED MINE CANT WAIT TO GET Started, cant open till Christmas
anybody have some good setups
how many kv (for a tekin)
servo
upgrades
anything really for a out door setup
Thanks Josh
This will be my first kit and first "real" RC car so I'm interested in this information as well. In particular, I don't know what servo to get or whether I need a "BEC" or not. Don't even know what a "BEC" is....

Not waiting 'till Christmas, though.
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Square Wheels View Post
This will be my first kit and first "real" RC car so I'm interested in this information as well. In particular, I don't know what servo to get or whether I need a "BEC" or not. Don't even know what a "BEC" is....

Not waiting 'till Christmas, though.
Servo: Ti gears and 200 in/ozs + of torque. speed is nice, but the most popular steering servo is probably the Hitec 7955 (333 in/oz @ 6v). Budget choices would be the Savox 1256tg (277 @ 6v) or (ahem), the Hobbico CS170 (essentially a re-badged Hitec 5955, the predecessor of the 7955). All of those servos are around .15 in speed. With the Savox, Just spend the extra 5 bucks for a glitch buster. They like their electron coctails...a whole lot.

Power: Personal experience. Castle Mamba Monster Max Esc. Not the Mamba Max Pro. The MMM is Damn near bullet proof. Tekin's RX8 is a great performer, though is not quite as reliable as the Castle MMM. I've used both, the tekin is marginally smoother of the bottom, but it switches to sensorless once rolling...

I like Tekin Motors. Make sure you purchase the cans designed for buggies and really, the 1700kv motor geared right and on 4 cells is plenty of power. Plenty.

Purchase mod1 pinions between 14 and 17t. Purchase a 44t spur. With these gears you can pretty much get your gearing right, no matter how big a track may be.

Good luck, you picked a great chassis.

*disclaimer: I'm not an expert. Not even a Professional in the field. Just research and experiment well.
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Old 11-20-2011, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Square Wheels View Post
This will be my first kit and first "real" RC car so I'm interested in this information as well. In particular, I don't know what servo to get or whether I need a "BEC" or not. Don't even know what a "BEC" is....

Not waiting 'till Christmas, though.
The BEC is the battery eliminator that's generally built into the speed control.

I had a Mamba Monster, and the only little thing I really disliked about it is the cogging if you're trying to start the car moving slowly and smoothly. If you just hammer the throttle, it worked fine. Also, if you are rolling backward, the ESC would hesitate before applying throttle. Most guys I know that use the MMM aren't bothered by those annoyances, but I was, so I went with an RX8, and I've been very happy with it. I think either one is a fine choice, but I do prefer the smoothness of the sensored start up on the RX8; however I prefer the wiring connections on the MMM.

For a servo, I think it really depends on your budget. My $70 Savox 1258TG was the best for the money. Not quite 200 in*oz of torque, but I never had any problems with it, even with a few nasty crashes. Savox is offering the $50 rebate on brushless servos, so you can get a $150 SB-2271SG Savox for $100. Too bad it doesn't have Ti gears to make it a little more lightweight, though.

Originally Posted by Farmer_John View Post
Originally Posted by HEAT View Post
Can someone post battery tray dimensions ?
Thanks
In the neighborhood of 150x50x40. It's the same box since the original RC8e limited edition and/or conversion kit of mid 2009.
I just measured the tray in my RC8Be. It's 144mm x 54mm without the padding and 139mm x 49mm with the padding.
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Farmer_John View Post

Purchase mod1 pinions between 14 and 17t. Purchase a 44t spur. With these gears you can pretty much get your gearing right, no matter how big a track may be.
get 17 through 21 pinion on the AE. AE use a 4:3 ratio and stock spur is 46.
Perfect gearing on a 1900kv was 19T or 20T pinion on the stock spur.
I am using 21T now but only because I am using a 1400kv motor. I could use 22T.
Use one of many gearing sites on the web and gear around 35mph based on the number of batt cells you plan to use and kv of motor if you race and you will compete anywhere. Smaller track, you may drop a tooth...larger track, maybe go up one but always temp your motor after 5 min and you will find the sweet spot.
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Old 11-20-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bohdi View Post
get 17 through 21 pinion on the AE.
I was thinking the same thing. I have 17T through 23T pinions, and have run most of them with a 2050kV Tekin motor on 4S.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:22 PM
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thanks for all the help with a set up.
but just another newbie question kinda, what would be the difference be between a 4s or 2' 2s battery's, and would you get a series or parallel connecter... then would you have to charge them one at a time or is their a way to charge them both at the same time? reason i ask is because it would be cool to have the same battery's for my 1/10 and 1/8 cars
thanks josh
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:26 PM
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I prefer a single 4S (or 6S) battery to simplify wiring

If you want to use two 2S batteries, you'll want to connect them in series so that you'll get 4S voltage.

It's best to charge them together so you can get all the voltages balanced together, IMO. I imagine it wouldn't hurt to charge them separately, but I wouldn't want the cells to get too far out of balance when running them.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:41 PM
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thanks
now on the motor im debating on a 1900 or 2050kv which would you prefer. idk why most people are going towards lower kv motors, couldn't you get a 2050 and if it was to fast just drop a tooth or 2 on the pinion?
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:47 PM
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My RC8Be was plenty fast on Gens Ace 4S batteries with an RX8 & 2050kV motor, almost too fast at the local track I'd visit every now and then. It was ridiculously fast on 6S. Never really a need to go that fast.

For my 8.2e, I'm going with 1400kV on 6S.
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 117 View Post
My RC8Be was plenty fast on Gens Ace 4S batteries with an RX8 & 2050kV motor, almost too fast at the local track I'd visit every now and then. It was ridiculously fast on 6S. Never really a need to go that fast.

For my 8.2e, I'm going with 1400kV on 6S.
sorry for so many questions,
but i dont understand whats better about lower kv motors? is their anything better
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:57 PM
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Generally more torque and a bit more run time on a lower kV motor. Of course, less top end too.
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Old 11-20-2011, 08:00 PM
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thanks for all the help
josh
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:16 AM
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Yes, lower kv motors are more efficient and make more torque. Your motor selection should probably be based on whether or not you're going to be racing; you'd have to check and see what batteries are allowed at the tracks you'd be running at. For example, at my track we're limited to a 4S lipo, so everybody's running motors in the 1700-2250 kv range. If this rule isn't in place and you're allowed to run a 6S, then lower kv motors would be a better choice with a 6S since they'd be just as fast but would have lower current draw, lower operating temperatures, and the potential for more run time depending on the capacity of your battery.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:21 AM
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I'm debating on picking up this chassis or the Mugen MBX6 Eco as my first 1/8 e buggy. Which do you guys suggest? Please be honest and as unbiased as possible
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:21 AM
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I am getting ready to convert my 8B with worlds towers to electric for the winter. I have a question regarding gearing. I will be running a Orion ESC/ 1750 motor on 4s. What is a good gearing combo to start with on a medium sized indoor track? I currently have the 44T stock gear in my nitro and the conversion kit comes with the 46 and 50 along wth 15 and 16 tooth pinions, I believe. I havn't purchased any more pinions yet. This will be my first run at electric in a long time as well as my first brushless buggy.
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