55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
03-13-2010, 07:27 PM
If you move the battery back, you move weight back. The reason that this results in more steering is because with more weight towards the rear you will overcome the rear sidebite so the car rotates more.
The statement about the jumping is impossible to quantify because it can go both ways depending on the rest of the setup and type of jumps. With more weight in the rear you can more easliy bottom the suspension on the jump faces (if they're steep) and cause nosediving for instance.
The statement about the jumping is impossible to quantify because it can go both ways depending on the rest of the setup and type of jumps. With more weight in the rear you can more easliy bottom the suspension on the jump faces (if they're steep) and cause nosediving for instance.
03-13-2010, 08:15 PM
If you move the battery back, you move weight back. The reason that this results in more steering is because with more weight towards the rear you will overcome the rear sidebite so the car rotates more.
The statement about the jumping is impossible to quantify because it can go both ways depending on the rest of the setup and type of jumps. With more weight in the rear you can more easliy bottom the suspension on the jump faces (if they're steep) and cause nosediving for instance.
The statement about the jumping is impossible to quantify because it can go both ways depending on the rest of the setup and type of jumps. With more weight in the rear you can more easliy bottom the suspension on the jump faces (if they're steep) and cause nosediving for instance.
thanks man for the response love the bunny pic too lol
03-13-2010, 08:29 PM
i just got back from a pretty big race tonight and i was running 81/23 with 3 dot timing on the new lrp sxxx stock spec (80910) the motor was warm after 6 min with the lrp x12 13.5 i can almost guaranty that if i run a 27-29 pinion with this setup the motor will fry!! i would love to see someone test this with this new speedo. its impossible to run that gearing even with a 29-28/78 i would love for someone to prove me wrong. i am very familiar with gearing and temps as well.with the lrp spx i would say yes more so than the sxx stock spec.
03-13-2010, 09:05 PM
I ran my X-12 13.5 in the 7 minute main today with 28/75 gearing, in my B4 and I can guarantee that it did not come off the track over 120*. With 78 tooth spurs, I ran a 26 tooth pinion at the same temps but I prefer the feel of the 75 tooth pinion so that is what I have been running with not one issue. I use the older Sphere Comp esc. Track is indoor high bite clay mix that is 110' x 70'.
03-14-2010, 05:03 PM
I ran a X-12 13.5 for a couple of weeks waiting for my Tekins to come in..
With 21/78 on my T4 it would come off the track at around 140-150 after 6 mins. When my Tekins came in I ran the same gearing and they come off at 100-110.... So I went up 2 teeth to 23/78 and my lap times came down .2-.3 secs and Theyre still only 130-135. So in the end I'm faster with the Tekins without doing anything else. Sold the X-12 the other night
With 21/78 on my T4 it would come off the track at around 140-150 after 6 mins. When my Tekins came in I ran the same gearing and they come off at 100-110.... So I went up 2 teeth to 23/78 and my lap times came down .2-.3 secs and Theyre still only 130-135. So in the end I'm faster with the Tekins without doing anything else. Sold the X-12 the other night
03-14-2010, 05:45 PM
I ran a X-12 13.5 for a couple of weeks waiting for my Tekins to come in..
With 21/78 on my T4 it would come off the track at around 140-150 after 6 mins. When my Tekins came in I ran the same gearing and they come off at 100-110.... So I went up 2 teeth to 23/78 and my lap times came down .2-.3 secs and Theyre still only 130-135. So in the end I'm faster with the Tekins without doing anything else. Sold the X-12 the other night
With 21/78 on my T4 it would come off the track at around 140-150 after 6 mins. When my Tekins came in I ran the same gearing and they come off at 100-110.... So I went up 2 teeth to 23/78 and my lap times came down .2-.3 secs and Theyre still only 130-135. So in the end I'm faster with the Tekins without doing anything else. Sold the X-12 the other night
thats because the x12's run hotter
03-14-2010, 05:59 PM
The air in the oils is serving the same purpose as the air separated by the bladder, to be compressible (oil isn't) and allow the displacement of the shock shaft when the shock compresses. Just two different ways of doing the same thing with two different feels. I've never tried it on the AE shocks (well, not since the 80's) but I don't know why it would be bad. Every 1/8th car on the market uses shocks with bladders.
doesnt matter. if i have my 8.5 running soo hot, i really dont care, if it starts loosing power id just throw another rotor in it and be back to normal. you need a way lower fdr, my 8.5 has a lower fdr than what you have your 13.5 at
the motors run hotter, does it matter? nope, not really. hot motors isnt always bad, its just hot.
03-14-2010, 06:23 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
I don't know what you are doing, but they are now the easiest and quickest shocks to refill on the market. First go, everytime, all the same rebound, no need to re bleed.
What are you doing to make them inconsistent? What do you mean by "the air comes into play"?
My lap times have dropped. I'm not saying that the new shock caps are going to make your car any fast, at least your shock should be the same left to right now.
03-14-2010, 06:36 PM
I don't know what you are doing, but they are now the easiest and quickest shocks to refill on the market. First go, everytime, all the same rebound, no need to re bleed.
What are you doing to make them inconsistent? What do you mean by "the air comes into play"?
My lap times have dropped. I'm not saying that the new shock caps are going to make your car any fast, at least your shock should be the same left to right now.
What are you doing to make them inconsistent? What do you mean by "the air comes into play"?
My lap times have dropped. I'm not saying that the new shock caps are going to make your car any fast, at least your shock should be the same left to right now.
03-14-2010, 06:37 PM
03-14-2010, 07:28 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
What simple adjustments can be made to get better steering on a high bite track with a T4?
03-14-2010, 07:32 PM
03-14-2010, 07:58 PM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Thanks for the tips. I snapped a ball stud on the inside position on the shock tower so I have to go with the outside for now. I will add some washers and move the camber link to the inside of the C hub. Thanks.
03-14-2010, 07:59 PM
03-14-2010, 08:27 PM
1. raise ride height in rear, lower in front.
2. add a washer under the rear inner ball stud, will free up the rear side bite slightly
3. add a degree of anti squat, same as above
4. drop one weight rear shock oil (or all 4 shocks), will make more weight transfer.
those are numbered but in no particular order.
Oh, and don't move the battery forward, that can result in more on throttle steering but almost never results in more off throttle steering.