55LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
11-08-2007, 05:55 AM
#3181
Thanks much CCRISTO!
11-08-2007, 06:22 AM
#3182
Unless your a real pipe hunger the stock team axles can't be beat. I have broke way to many of the FT team blue ones. For the screw you could just cut a notch in with a dremel and use a flat head to get the screw out. Then you will be able to save your wheel.
The splines in the wheel that you are referring to are the old style rims. No different bearing is needed everything will bolt up just fine.
All of the bearings are the same between the B4 and T4.
The splines in the wheel that you are referring to are the old style rims. No different bearing is needed everything will bolt up just fine.
All of the bearings are the same between the B4 and T4.
cheers
wog
11-08-2007, 09:05 AM
#3183
11-08-2007, 09:10 AM
#3184
11-08-2007, 09:57 AM
#3185
I am getting a B4 and Novak 5.5 brushless set-up to run indoors this winter. I have been racing 8th buggies for the past 4 years exclusively. The track is 80x50ft smooth high bite clay. He converts it from oval to offroad. The hot tire set-up is slicks with firm inserts. I am looking for a good starting point for the set-up.
11-08-2007, 10:19 AM
#3186
I am getting a B4 and Novak 5.5 brushless set-up to run indoors this winter. I have been racing 8th buggies for the past 4 years exclusively. The track is 80x50ft smooth high bite clay. He converts it from oval to offroad. The hot tire set-up is slicks with firm inserts. I am looking for a good starting point for the set-up.
As for setup,
Front - 35wt., brown springs, #1 piston, -.060" limiting (unscrewed 2 turns), shocks mounted middle tower, outside arm, camber link 1-A with 1 washer, 30* castor blocks, spindles middle, 2 spindle washers, super glue the servo saver together, -1* camber, 0* toe
Rear - 30wt., Silver springs, #2 piston, .030" limiting, shocks inside-inside, camber link 1-b w/1 washer, hubs middle, 2* anti-squat, -1* camber
Don't forget the basics, batter forward or middle (cut the battery pad in 1/2), and adding the 1 1/2 oz. of weight in the rear (1 oz under u-brace in front of tranny, and 1/4 oz. in each rear triangle). Also, the JConcepts 6" HD or V wings are the best in the business. You could run those with no extra lip.
Hope that helps...
11-08-2007, 10:46 AM
#3187
Thanks speedsterblade, Racers Edge doesn't make the 1.5* anymore but I found a set at rcplanet.com. They are pricey 25.00!
11-08-2007, 10:54 AM
#3188
Ive already got the 5.5 it said on their website high traction offroad. Is that really going to be too much? I already opened it so I cant return it now. I can limit it cant I? I could get a different motor. At first I grabbed the 4.5 but after reading the website I returned it and got the 5.5.
The track is really high bite my gas truck would sometimes wheely down the straight. I'm used to driving my 1/8th buggy on the track. I see some of the faster 2wd mod guys sometimes catching wheelys but they seem to be able to control it somehow. I havent run 2wd since gas truck and that was a couple years back before they let us run our 1/8th buggies.
The track is really high bite my gas truck would sometimes wheely down the straight. I'm used to driving my 1/8th buggy on the track. I see some of the faster 2wd mod guys sometimes catching wheelys but they seem to be able to control it somehow. I havent run 2wd since gas truck and that was a couple years back before they let us run our 1/8th buggies.
11-08-2007, 10:59 AM
#3189
I have been one of the faster racers in my class at this track in previous years. Just so you know I'm not a newb racer just new to brushless and 2wd mod. Last time I raced 2wd it was stock with a JRX-2. But I do need some advice to get me started. The trinity tech talk site I usually talk to the local racers is currently down so I cant ask my locals.
11-08-2007, 11:50 AM
#3190
The 5.5 is a little too much but you can turn down your epa and exp to tune/limit the power. It would also work nicely with a 5 cell if you're running conventional batteries.
11-08-2007, 12:43 PM
#3191
I'm a big fan of exponential. I dont understand why everyone doesnt use it.
On my 1/8th buggy I bought a 3 port last winter to run in there and hated it. It wasnt near as fast as my other engines. Even though the track was small I still didnt like being down on power.
I dont have any batteries yet but plan to use nimh.
On my 1/8th buggy I bought a 3 port last winter to run in there and hated it. It wasnt near as fast as my other engines. Even though the track was small I still didnt like being down on power.
I dont have any batteries yet but plan to use nimh.
11-08-2007, 12:46 PM
#3192
I ran a 5.5 in my t4 at our newly redun indoor (100' straight)...5.5 was way too much for my track. 6.5 better but I still have to dail it down some on the radio. I can't image the 5.5 in my buggy. I ran a 6.5 on a big outdoor track in the buggy and it was about perfect. Some guys at my track are running the gearing a touch higher to help w/ the wheel spin, just keep an eye on the temps...
11-08-2007, 01:18 PM
#3193
Tech Master
You guys that want to soften up the 5.5 motor, use the throttle expo in your radio if it has that. We use as much as negative 100% depending on the track condition. It sure helps soften up the wheel spin off the corners on a slick track.
The easiest way is to go less motor like around a 7.5 if the track gets slick. Less motor will always extend those runtimes too!
The easiest way is to go less motor like around a 7.5 if the track gets slick. Less motor will always extend those runtimes too!
11-08-2007, 05:33 PM
#3195
Tech Addict
