RC10B4/T4 Forum
#3167
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
so raced my new FT RC10T4 for the first time this weekend with panther switch 2.0 clays in the rear and losi pink directionals up fornt and it was ok but way loose at the end of the straight and in long sweeping corners. I am running 30 wt. up front with #3 pis. and 25 wt. #1 pistons in the rear. Stock springs, Silver in the front green in the rear. I was having trouble with the rear being loose until a fellow racer told me to put a .030 shim under the rear inner ball stud and boy was this truck alot better. I am thinking of moving the rear hub to the middle position to lenghten the wheelbase to give it less or smoother turning in those sweeping corners. All and all I dont regret buying this over the XXX-T CR in fact i think it might be a better buy cause it only cost me 190.00.
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
#3168
Tech Champion
iTrader: (221)
so raced my new FT RC10T4 for the first time this weekend with panther switch 2.0 clays in the rear and losi pink directionals up fornt and it was ok but way loose at the end of the straight and in long sweeping corners. I am running 30 wt. up front with #3 pis. and 25 wt. #1 pistons in the rear. Stock springs, Silver in the front green in the rear. I was having trouble with the rear being loose until a fellow racer told me to put a .030 shim under the rear inner ball stud and boy was this truck alot better. I am thinking of moving the rear hub to the middle position to lenghten the wheelbase to give it less or smoother turning in those sweeping corners. All and all I dont regret buying this over the XXX-T CR in fact i think it might be a better buy cause it only cost me 190.00.
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
#3172
Don`t even have to use the heat sink with the Lrp.....
#3173
so raced my new FT RC10T4 for the first time this weekend with panther switch 2.0 clays in the rear and losi pink directionals up fornt and it was ok but way loose at the end of the straight and in long sweeping corners. I am running 30 wt. up front with #3 pis. and 25 wt. #1 pistons in the rear. Stock springs, Silver in the front green in the rear. I was having trouble with the rear being loose until a fellow racer told me to put a .030 shim under the rear inner ball stud and boy was this truck alot better. I am thinking of moving the rear hub to the middle position to lenghten the wheelbase to give it less or smoother turning in those sweeping corners. All and all I dont regret buying this over the XXX-T CR in fact i think it might be a better buy cause it only cost me 190.00.
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
Any suggestions to try other things ?
I hope i made sense LOl
I had a simlar problem. Way loose on entry into our sweeper....if I didn't have the throttle in the sweet spot during turn in, I would spin....unlike my b4 which is similar on setup.. except wheel base. I found I had the longest wheelbase setting on the t4 (I lengthened it for an outdoor track and left it)...I moved it to the shortest wheelbase setting (just like the buggy) and I got my side bite back. So for me the shorter wheel base provide more side bite..and more forward bite. I'm going to check the washers on the rear cmber links and see if I can get some more side bite out of it.
#3174
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I had a simlar problem. Way loose on entry into our sweeper....if I didn't have the throttle in the sweet spot during turn in, I would spin....unlike my b4 which is similar on setup.. except wheel base. I found I had the longest wheelbase setting on the t4 (I lengthened it for an outdoor track and left it)...I moved it to the shortest wheelbase setting (just like the buggy) and I got my side bite back. So for me the shorter wheel base provide more side bite..and more forward bite. I'm going to check the washers on the rear cmber links and see if I can get some more side bite out of it.
#3176
hey all,
i bought a B4 last week (team factory) and the wheel screws for the front are stripped...and i cant get them out, obviously....i am about to order the alloy set with the titanium shaft off rcmart....but i have a set of spare rims and they have like splines on the inside of the hole (where the shaft goes through) just wondering about that....does the bearing have a special shape to go with this or is it just a standard type of bearing?
also can i use the T4 bearing set that rcmart offers, for the B4...iam guessing the only real diff between the 2 is the suspenion..and drivetrain stuff..
cheers
wog
i bought a B4 last week (team factory) and the wheel screws for the front are stripped...and i cant get them out, obviously....i am about to order the alloy set with the titanium shaft off rcmart....but i have a set of spare rims and they have like splines on the inside of the hole (where the shaft goes through) just wondering about that....does the bearing have a special shape to go with this or is it just a standard type of bearing?
also can i use the T4 bearing set that rcmart offers, for the B4...iam guessing the only real diff between the 2 is the suspenion..and drivetrain stuff..
cheers
wog
#3177
Does anyone make a set of 1.5 degree rear hub carriers for the T4. Racers Edge used to but doesn't anymore.
#3179
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
hey all,
i bought a B4 last week (team factory) and the wheel screws for the front are stripped...and i cant get them out, obviously....i am about to order the alloy set with the titanium shaft off rcmart....but i have a set of spare rims and they have like splines on the inside of the hole (where the shaft goes through) just wondering about that....does the bearing have a special shape to go with this or is it just a standard type of bearing?
also can i use the T4 bearing set that rcmart offers, for the B4...iam guessing the only real diff between the 2 is the suspenion..and drivetrain stuff..
cheers
wog
i bought a B4 last week (team factory) and the wheel screws for the front are stripped...and i cant get them out, obviously....i am about to order the alloy set with the titanium shaft off rcmart....but i have a set of spare rims and they have like splines on the inside of the hole (where the shaft goes through) just wondering about that....does the bearing have a special shape to go with this or is it just a standard type of bearing?
also can i use the T4 bearing set that rcmart offers, for the B4...iam guessing the only real diff between the 2 is the suspenion..and drivetrain stuff..
cheers
wog
The splines in the wheel that you are referring to are the old style rims. No different bearing is needed everything will bolt up just fine.
All of the bearings are the same between the B4 and T4.