Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Serpent 811E Buggy Thread >

Serpent 811E Buggy Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree5Likes

Serpent 811E Buggy Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-15-2013 | 09:19 AM
  #3586  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

I just called and not yet, said they will be in sometime this week
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 11:40 AM
  #3587  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by cmenard
Not for too much longer. My E kit should be here soon Grant.
Sweet! Hurry up, I am clueless at offroad, and since Danny just puts his Kyosho down and it handles perfect, he is of no use. On the plus side, I have finished every qualifier and main, and he does not seem to. Any chance you are going to make the GCS at Dalton in 2 weeks? I'll be at Loganville this coming Sat and then Dalton the week after.

It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.

With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).

I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.

So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 11:46 AM
  #3588  
Maxxingout's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 815
Default

Sweet! Hurry up, I am clueless at offroad, and since Danny just puts his Kyosho down and it handles perfect, he is of no use. On the plus side, I have finished every qualifier and main, and he does not seem to. Any chance you are going to make the GCS at Dalton in 2 weeks? I'll be at Loganville this coming Sat and then Dalton the week after.

It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.

With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).

I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.

So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
So are you saying that your buggy IS chassis slapping from a 8'' drop? If yes, which way do you have your csi pistons facing inside the shock body?
Maxxingout is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 12:22 PM
  #3589  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Maxxingout
So are you saying that your buggy IS chassis slapping from a 8'' drop? If yes, which way do you have your csi pistons facing inside the shock body?
Rear is slapping, front is not. Front will not from 12 inches, not sure above that. I do have the DE skid plate on the rear as well if it matters.

CSI pistons are cone side down, flat side up, using blues currently. Gut feeling says the shock oil is too thin for the pistons. Rebound is 25% front and rear. Using Serpent webbed bladders.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 12:36 PM
  #3590  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

That is same oil I'm running but i have black not blue
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 12:43 PM
  #3591  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Racermac73
That is same oil I'm running but i have black not blue
Good to know. The larger 2 holes in the blues just seem huge, but seemed like a middle ground. The blacks seemed like the option for hard pack smooth clay (like is seen indoors) which is not quite what we have here. I will swap to blacks then with the same oil and see what happens.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 12:52 PM
  #3592  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

Also you have to read the info on those pistons... black is recommended if your running 50wt. or lower
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:21 PM
  #3593  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Racermac73
Also you have to read the info on those pistons... black is recommended if your running 50wt. or lower
I read it, and with the below info, guessed. You are running black with 45/35 yet they recommend 30-40. Blue is 40-50, and I ran 45/35. I guess in theory we should be running blue front, black rear, but the notes say specifically not to do that.

I will say I miss TC shocks. A bottle of 35wt would last seasons instead of 2-4 shocks. The 811 2.0 ones are huge!

I am still curious if anyone is running the Fioroni pistons and if so, what weight oils.



Piston Rates:


•CSI A (BLACK): Re- engineered to provide increased dampening forces for smoother tracks that have a high bite clay or blue groove surfaces. CSI A pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 30wt to 40wt range or 350 cSt to 500 cSt.
•CSI B (BLUE): This is CSI’s base line piston. It is engineered to provide excellent grip and more control as shaft speeds increase. The enhanced flow minimizes hydraulic lock, giving your shock progressive dampening forces, making them a perfect fit for most track conditions. CSI B pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 40wt to 50wt range or 500 cSt to 750 cSt.
•CSI C (RED): CSI engineers have re-designed this piston to provide progressive dampening forces like the A and B pistons. This piston provides the most flow and is ideal for tracks with lower grip levels. CSI C pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 50wt to 70w range or 500 cSt to 850 cSt.

NOTE: It is recommended that these pistons are installed with the tapered side facing down to improve rebound dampening. The same piston set should be used in the front and rear shocks, with changes in shock fluid weight to adjust the balance of front to rear dampening.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:25 PM
  #3594  
D.a.v.e's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 467
From: South East, Michigan
Default

Has anyone tried raising up the battery tie downs? I bought some 3 cell packs that stick up about a 1/4 inch higher then the tray. I was thinking of getting some tubing to put over the part (body mount part) where the clip goes in to raise the mount up a bit but thought I would check in here first to see if any other folks had done this?
D.a.v.e is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:36 PM
  #3595  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

My mistake, I'm running 40 in the front and 30 rear.. i thought u was also
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:39 PM
  #3596  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

I cut my battery trays up and use wmd graphite straps to hold them in. ill try to show a picture on here and u should be able to do that
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:40 PM
  #3597  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Racermac73
My mistake, I'm running 40 in the front and 30 rear.. i thought u was also
Good catch! I was going to change to that till I thought you were running heavier. I'll stick to trying 40/30 with blacks and see what happens next weekend.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 01:44 PM
  #3598  
orcadigital's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
 
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,126
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by D.a.v.e
Has anyone tried raising up the battery tie downs? I bought some 3 cell packs that stick up about a 1/4 inch higher then the tray. I was thinking of getting some tubing to put over the part (body mount part) where the clip goes in to raise the mount up a bit but thought I would check in here first to see if any other folks had done this?
Originally Posted by Racermac73
I cut my battery trays up and use wmd graphite straps to hold them in. ill try to show a picture on here and u should be able to do that
I have the WMD straps also, but not sure they will gain you 1/4". You also want to be careful of body clearance, as it is pretty close over the batteries already. You may need to do some heavier removal of the trays to make them work. Keep in mind they are like $50 to replace before you go cutting into them.

I did gain some extra room to get my Revtech batteries in with the WMD straps. More room on the wiring and the batteries are not bulging the hold downs.
orcadigital is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 02:03 PM
  #3599  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,138
From: Virginia
Default

I can't figure it out lol just click on my name and look at album
Racermac73 is offline  
Old 04-15-2013 | 06:32 PM
  #3600  
poppincoppin's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 241
From: Houston TX
Default

Just got my Serpent 811be, I'm not sure if the answer is somewhere in this thread but I need help with the batteries. I have a Tekin RX8 and 2050. I'm still a noob to E side. What batteries do I need? If y'all don't mind can you be very specific names - brands etc. some one said 4s but what else? thanks in advance for the help
poppincoppin is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.