Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#3587
Sweet! Hurry up, I am clueless at offroad, and since Danny just puts his Kyosho down and it handles perfect, he is of no use. On the plus side, I have finished every qualifier and main, and he does not seem to. Any chance you are going to make the GCS at Dalton in 2 weeks? I'll be at Loganville this coming Sat and then Dalton the week after.
It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.
With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).
I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.
So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.
With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).
I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.
So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
#3588
Sweet! Hurry up, I am clueless at offroad, and since Danny just puts his Kyosho down and it handles perfect, he is of no use. On the plus side, I have finished every qualifier and main, and he does not seem to. Any chance you are going to make the GCS at Dalton in 2 weeks? I'll be at Loganville this coming Sat and then Dalton the week after.
It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.
With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).
I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.
So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
It ran pretty well this weekend, though it did feel a little inconsistent. I was craving a little more on power steering, and it felt like I had the rear end popping up on some jumps (particularly the triple in the center). The top of the jump was a little iffy and depending on which side you launched from made a huge difference on if you made the landing. Running 45wt front with blue springs and blue csi pistons, rear 35wt yellow springs, same blue pistons. I changed the rear springs softer to greens hoping it might help without much change. Just felt like at times the rear was planted and other times it wanted to come around. It may be due mostly to track conditions and my inability to stay on the line as well. Track was blown off only after the second qualifier.
With the yellows and also with the greens, if I drop the buggy from 8 inches it will tail slap. Makes me think maybe I need thicker rear oil (or black pistons) but that seems counter to the rear hop I was getting (unless it was chassis slapping when taking off instead of shock rebound).
I did go from 2 front 2 rear camber to 2 and 3, and never rolled, even when doing stupid things like turning while landing.
So other then my rambling here, I do have a question. I assume it should not chassis slap (front or rear) from an 8 inch drop? I am currently planning on changing to the black CSI pistons and trying 40 front 30 rear and see if that helps? Cone side down on the pistons? Also will try at the track switching from the Opt 2 rack to the Opt 3 just for some more on power steering. I can rotate the back end through the tighter corners but feels like I am scrubbing off more speed then I need to be.
#3589
CSI pistons are cone side down, flat side up, using blues currently. Gut feeling says the shock oil is too thin for the pistons. Rebound is 25% front and rear. Using Serpent webbed bladders.
#3591
Good to know. The larger 2 holes in the blues just seem huge, but seemed like a middle ground. The blacks seemed like the option for hard pack smooth clay (like is seen indoors) which is not quite what we have here. I will swap to blacks then with the same oil and see what happens.
#3593
I will say I miss TC shocks. A bottle of 35wt would last seasons instead of 2-4 shocks. The 811 2.0 ones are huge!
I am still curious if anyone is running the Fioroni pistons and if so, what weight oils.
Piston Rates:
•CSI A (BLACK): Re- engineered to provide increased dampening forces for smoother tracks that have a high bite clay or blue groove surfaces. CSI A pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 30wt to 40wt range or 350 cSt to 500 cSt.
•CSI B (BLUE): This is CSI’s base line piston. It is engineered to provide excellent grip and more control as shaft speeds increase. The enhanced flow minimizes hydraulic lock, giving your shock progressive dampening forces, making them a perfect fit for most track conditions. CSI B pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 40wt to 50wt range or 500 cSt to 750 cSt.
•CSI C (RED): CSI engineers have re-designed this piston to provide progressive dampening forces like the A and B pistons. This piston provides the most flow and is ideal for tracks with lower grip levels. CSI C pistons should be used with oil viscosity in the 50wt to 70w range or 500 cSt to 850 cSt.
NOTE: It is recommended that these pistons are installed with the tapered side facing down to improve rebound dampening. The same piston set should be used in the front and rear shocks, with changes in shock fluid weight to adjust the balance of front to rear dampening.
#3594
Has anyone tried raising up the battery tie downs? I bought some 3 cell packs that stick up about a 1/4 inch higher then the tray. I was thinking of getting some tubing to put over the part (body mount part) where the clip goes in to raise the mount up a bit but thought I would check in here first to see if any other folks had done this?
#3597
#3598
Has anyone tried raising up the battery tie downs? I bought some 3 cell packs that stick up about a 1/4 inch higher then the tray. I was thinking of getting some tubing to put over the part (body mount part) where the clip goes in to raise the mount up a bit but thought I would check in here first to see if any other folks had done this?
I did gain some extra room to get my Revtech batteries in with the WMD straps. More room on the wiring and the batteries are not bulging the hold downs.
#3600
Just got my Serpent 811be, I'm not sure if the answer is somewhere in this thread but I need help with the batteries. I have a Tekin RX8 and 2050. I'm still a noob to E side. What batteries do I need? If y'all don't mind can you be very specific names - brands etc. some one said 4s but what else? thanks in advance for the help



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