SMC batteries are great.....

Yes on battery straps and yes on turnigy batteries

Serpent America does show 2.0 in stock and on website finally

yep ordered mine yesterday, will be here Mon!

WOOHOOO!

Very cool, setup seems weird i have on mine but it works

So my kit arrives Monday, but i have another 1.0 roller here that i just bought as well and i realized, i forgot how to build 1/8th shocks!

I have the webbed bladders, but my question is about rebound/bleeding.

Do you install the bladder into the cap first? or put the bladder on the top of the shock the put the cap on?

I have tried both ways and can't seem to get it consistent trying to hold 1/2 the shock out for rebound.

I have been running bladderless in my 1/10th for so long i really don't remember, been 10 years since my last 1/8th....

I do the bleed method.

Fill the shock, piston at bottom.

Put the bladder in the cap seated as best you can.

Screw the cap on about 50 % and then position the bleed hole up so your holding the shock on an angle with the bleed hole as the highest flat point.

Slowly rotate the shock body closed if the shock is good and full you should start to get some fluid weeping out. As soon as fluid starts to come out slowly push the piston up. More fluid should push out. Once the piston is at the top tighten the cap the rest pf the way. I try to build shock with as little rebound as possible. With a normal bladder they will even pull back in slightly when fully extended and usually have no more then 10-15% rebound tops. With the webbed bladders you wont get as much rebound.

If you get excessive rebound slowly unscrew the shock body (again while holding the bleed hole up) until you get a purge of fluid or air. If you did it right you'll only get fluid. If you nail it first time you wont need to do this step.


The other way and I'm not a fan of but a lot of people do it is to just simply put the piston at the bottom, fill the shock and push the bladder down on top of the shock body and displace the extra oil. Then just screw the cap down tight. You'll end up with a lot more rebound but some prefer that method

I recently purchased a serpent nitro buggy and converted it using the RC monster conversion...was wondering if anyone knew what bodies I would have to choose from that will clear a four cell hard case battery.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I will give that a try. Im an trying to get consistent rebound, as it is a very important tuning tool and will make a big difference at times.

Has anyone noticed the whole servo mount/radio tray flexes when turning under load? Mine flexes a lot , if I hold the wheels and turn the tray flexes quite a bit. If anyone has fixed that what did you do? Yes the three screws hold it in are tight. Endpoints are correct.

Thanks.

I've noticed the same thing and yes, my radio tray and servo are fastened down completely.

First, have you adjusted your endpoints (EPA) of your steering channel, on your radio? That can also be the major player in why you're having so much 'flex' in your radio tray. Because any extra steering throw from your servo horn, once the steering linkage/wheels is already at max angle, your servo saver should soak up any remaining steering throw, if you have your EPA adjusted accordingly. In fact, if your EPA is set correctly, your servo saver shouldn't engage at max left or max right. It should just barely start to.


From what I've seen at a few recent big events, some of the factory drivers have an upgraded or what I can tell as an aluminum and plastic radio tray, with either aluminum bracing or full aluminum in some parts of the tray assembly. More where the servo is attached at. And supposedly this is supposed to be an option part they're working on releasing sometime this next month or so (May).

I'm also working on one myself. It'll be out of machined aluminum and 2.5mm graphite. It'll change the layout of the servo, ESC, and RX by just a little bit, but offer greater strength to the mounting of the servo, as well as provide a little more room for your ESC, RX, and transponder mounting.

I'll post pictures once I've got something tangible. Lol, I work 60+ hrs a week, and often bring work home with me to finish, so my schedule is a little hectic. Hopefully Serpent will have theirs available before I have mine ready

Cheers!

Thanks for the info, good to know they are working on a fix.

My kit arrives today! WOOHOO!!!

Im going to do something i haven't really seen before with my electronics setup. Im going to run a Savox 7.4 HV brushless servo directly off of the lipos. Im going to wire them in parallel so it pulls of both packs equally, and run that directly to my servo. That way the RX8 only has to power the rx. The internal BEC in the RX8 seems to be the weakpoint in the design as i have seen numerous failures in the BEC.

I am going to have to play with it a bit to make sure i get everything wired neatly, but i feel in the long run i will be rewarded with a much faster/stronger steering servo response, as well as a much healthier RX8
http://www.savoxusa.com/Savox_SB2274...avsb2274sg.htm < this is the servo im going to use. it should be way overkill honestly, which is fine with me Nothing better than getting stuck on a tube and having the power in the servo to move the front of the buggy over without having to be marshalled. LOL i do it often in my 1/10, not sure if i will be able to do it in this car or not, but what the hell, if it's possible this servo will be able to

I have a Bitty Designs body on mine. I did have to clearance it a bit for the corner of a 4 cell, of if I stagger the 2 2cells backwards, I do not have to (outside battery is shifted to the back of the car).

Using a KO RSX Power I do not get much flex now that my EPA is set correctly. Are you possibly getting any rubbing from the servo horn? Other thing to check is that the ackerman bar screws are not too tight and binding. I did that once and the servo was fighting against that. Remove the linkage and make sure the steering is free left to right without the servo in the mix.

I'm not sure I under stand how you can do that and run them in series too. I don't think that will work. You mite think about using a small 2 cell lipo for powering you electrics.