qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

So what's the theory behind Serpent drivers going with the thicker diff and shock fluids? These numbers are a lot different than stock. What are you tuning for that the stock setup doesn't give you?

I'm running 10/15/7 and I actually do like this. Thought about going to 10 in the rear, but I'm afraid I'll loose some of my turn in/turn radius.

I'm running 6x1.2 tapered pistons and front blue/500, rear red/400 (just for 2 weeks) and it handled better than stock, but still not quite there yet. I'm going to try 8x1.2 tapered first and then maybe square with the same springs. Don't know what oil I'm going to run yet.

The track I run on is slightly bumpy, has a couple of big jumps and also has a rumble strip like section (not whoops) going into a turn. It's killing me. If I take it fast, the shocks work good, but then I can't stop in time to make a tight turn. If I go through it slower, the car bounces around. I'm hoping the 8 hole pistons will help make take this section better, but I'm struggling with what oil to try. Needs to be thick enough for the big jumps yet soft enough for the rumble strip.

Long story short, some info on why the serpent drivers are making certain changes will help understand their changes and help me determine if it is something that might help me.

Mbone706

iTrader: (4)

Can you post your whole set up?

The 8hole taper Pistons will definitely help in your "whoops" section.

ForzaVeloce

If you have the old diffs (as I had in my 2.0 since they came with them in the first batch) then you can go with the lighter oils in the diffs and your setup is in the ballpark.
If you have the new diffs with the smaller planetary gears then you need to run a bit heavier oils. Depending on the track you can go as high as 30-30-15 and still have a driveable car that turns good. For me 20-20-10 with the smaller gears gives a nice car for my tracks.

For the shocks it's all about matching the pistons to the springs and adding oils working with them. So you just can't say that someones running lighter or heavier oils as you have to consider the rest of the shock setup. But as a simple rule you can say that running softer springs you need to run lighter oils. Harder springs need heavier oil. Same with pistons. More or bigger holes need heavier oils to get the same amount of damping.

With the problem you have with your car above, it looks like you have to soft springs rear, pistons with too small holes and too heavy oil. The car packs the suspension to much (too weak springs for the piston/oil) and it hasn't time between the bumps to return to it's starting point and this makes the car sit to low and give you no travel to work with. That's why the car bounces around.

A rather good setup for me that works with almost every track I visit, is the pink V2 springs front and back (saves money on springs! ) with 8x1,3 squared pistons (drilled the blanks in the kit. Saves more money!) with Ass 60wt (800cst) in the front and Ass 45wt (550cst) in the back. The Ass oils are rather thin so you might run 650-700cst in front and 450-500cst in the rear if you use another supplier of oils.

As for the tapered pistons you only need them if you feel like you have to differentiate the compression and the rebound damping. So if you're happy with the compression but needs less rebound you put the taper down. If you're happy with the rebound but needs less compression you put the taper up.
If you want to try tapered pistons I would suggest you put the taper up. You almost always need more rebound than compression to get the car to handle well.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the two responses above. I'll prob go with the 8x1.2 square or tapered pistons for now (don't have a tap yet). Would love to try 8x1.3. Will order a tap. I was thinking if the tapered side was down, rebound would be faster. Is that not correct?

I'll increase the rear shock spring (springs are v2) to pink, I think. When I look at setups, it seems the front springs are about as stiff a they can be and the rear springs are about as soft as they can be. That confuses me.

Just installed two of the 3 diffs last night. I do have v2 gears. I kind of like the way the diffs are, but I did like that center increase from 12 to 15 so I might take them apart. Idk. Other than the rear, it's close to what the team drivers run.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

16 or 17 tooth pinion with 1900kv mtr? Was running 16 with 2050. Using 46T spur.

IOP_Racer

iTrader: (14)

I ran a 17 tooth pinion with my Tekin 1900 for a long time, but with the summer temperatures I had to gear down to a 16 tooth. 16 tooth is the safe starting point.

J.Elliott

iTrader: (22)

I don't know if anyone has done this, or if it is really needed. Back when I had the nitro truggy v1, we put either the aluminum steering knuckles, possibly from the v2 nitro buggy, on the truggy and had to replace the axle end and bearing to give the truggy more steering. Would the same effect happen with the 2.0 ebuggy? Would I just need to get the aluminum steering knuckle, or would I have to replace other parts?

IOP_Racer

iTrader: (14)

On my ebuggy I have to dial back the EPA so that the tires dont touch the arm at full lock. I do have the aluminum spindles and castor blocks, but I think it is the same story with the stock pieces.

J.Elliott

iTrader: (22)

I do the same thing with my vehicles, but for some reason, putting the aluminum knuckles on the old truggy gave it more steering into a corner, and I had to take more dual rate out as it made the tires respond quicker. I was kind of looking for the same thing with the ebuggy.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

Are u running any timing with the 16T pinion? What are your summer time outside temps? Thanks.

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

Anybody running the webbed bladders? If so, how tight am I supposed to screw on the shock cap...all the way down or just until its nice and snug?

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Just snug.

On the 16t pinion I run 0-10 deg depending on the track.

IOP_Racer

iTrader: (14)

I dont run any timing. My summer temps are 80-high 90s.

jaysonHENDERSON

iTrader: (5)

What's the easiest way to tell if you have the V1 or v2 diffs? I know the v2's planetary gears are smaller but is there a measurement or any other tell tale sign? I bought a 2.0 used but I'm not sure what version the riffs are. Thanks!

J.Elliott

iTrader: (22)

The V1 diffs have a washer that goes in between the planetary gear and the diff housing. The V2 diffs do not.