Thanks to all you fellas for your encouragement and kind words..I am still just salivating while staring at the box..It's the calm b/f the storm and I quite enjoy it.:nod:

Stop bein' sappy and build the bloody thing already:lol:

You got your motor, speedo, receiver, and servo?

steering binding
 

Thanks to all for the helpful tips. So far so good. Were the shocks properly filled?

Yup I do!!:DI know and soon will..I feel as if the truck is talking to me through Al Pacino's voice, testing me to concede to it's vanity..This clip is actually pumping up for the build.:lol:It actually may be team asociated's Sc10 4wd sct's time to shine!!:cool:

Classic:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8KTFQ23CWY

Sc
 

Where can I get sway bar and springs for this track ?

I made some for mine.

Costs about 80 cents for 2mm music wire. The hardware can be expensive though. I used some old 1/8th scale hardware I had, but my friend bought a revo mounting kit for the hardware only. i think it was over $20. With some slight mods to the hardware, they're not to difficult to make.

I forgot to ask is the clicker locked or loose. The rear end gets squirly when on breaks whin the clicker decoupled. Try tightening it down ,then brake a high speed. If It moves straight, then it was just from the cicker.

Started building mine yesterday. Just wanted to say thanks for all the tips in this thread. One of my differentials was empty. Went and bought a skil driver to build it with and I couldn't imagine doing it without it. Had to get standard allen bits, but they work. I wish associated would give you a screw size chart, measuring each screw for length is a headache, since some are only like 1-2mm longer than others.

Has anyone tried using the Power strokes yet? I have a set from my last 4wd and even bought the mounting hardware when I picked up my sc10. Thought was to try in case springs took a while. Honestly though ive been tuning so much the last week I hate to throw I'n another variable, but it may help...Ive got about 3-4 mm. Left on my front spring before i am at the top of the body, and not too much more on the rear. The truck is jumping like crazy...flies like a dang jet, w a little nose up I'n air. Am clearing the table by 6 feet, so much further than my ol slash... For those of you having the tail sweep out I'n corners, vie got great news....the sway bars and tightening the clicker fixed this for me entirely...I'm still running the clicker, just not as much as at first...Amazing truck...couldn't be happier....
Setup and temps....RX-8/Tekin SC4X 4.5/Savox 1256. Temps Esc-98 / Motor-133 after running an entire pack...lol. Gearing 15/62. Perfect speed and torque for my style....won't change a thing....
Am anxious to hear if anyone has tried thie power strokes tho... May be a remedy to our spring issue for the time being?

When I read the manual from the start, I noticed on the third page at the notes it says... There is a 1:1 hardware foldout page in the back of the manual!

It was quite helpfull and a HUGE life saver if you ask me!

I WISH HAD FOUND THE 1:1 hardware page !!!
 

Boy it would have been alot easier to build had I seen that chart .. Why isn't it in the front of the book ... Or how about a small box in the corner of each step/page showing the screws for that step/page ?? Oh well I could built one in an hour now :) .. And fwiw I love my truck

just finishing mine up.although i have ran 2 of my friends sc10 4x4.

to get these to hook up like my scte we need to lock down the slipper and the clicker.then the sc10 pulls just like scte.

sc10 jumps better IMO and drives much lighter.the rear end rotates great with f/r locked up.

i do agree that the back end does get loose,locking up the f/r helps this.

Please get a video of the truck with the 2650 kv in, that thing must flip on its lid under acceleration.

Does this come up with the diff wt gear lubes for front and rear? Or it it 3k for both?

You would think since these are so easy to make ourselves, AE would have released something by now.

This isn't a big issue however I noticed at full droop (truck lifted off it's wheels with suspension fully exteded) that the steering spindle (#91026) rubs the front arms (#91025) when turning left and right. This doesn't happen when the vehicle is on the ground with the suspension at ride hight or fully compressed.

Anyone else noticed this?

I can see it putting a bit of stress on the servo or servo horn when I turn it side to side. However there wouldn't be much pressure on them when driving it since the truck would be in the air to get this rubbing effect (plus how often do you turn the wheels when your flying in the air off a jump!)