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Old 12-29-2011, 05:43 PM
  #13456  
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Originally Posted by Graphite07
front right shock leaking bad. i called associated he said take the shock apart and spray motor cleaner on the shock Cartridge that did nothing still leaks.
One of mine was like that and it turned out to be my fault. I over tightened it when i was replacing the fluid. Seems they dont like being semi-stripped Take the shock tools and see if you can spin the leaking one without it getting tight. If so there ya go. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-29-2011, 05:45 PM
  #13457  
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Unfortunately that's not the case, I also just replaced the whole bottom cap to no avail. I am going to call AE tomorrow and see what they say.
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Old 12-29-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife


I'm eating my Nutritious BK Lounge Dinner EGR, then i'll tear into my truck and show a 1415 guide.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:05 PM
  #13459  
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Originally Posted by sandsurfer
If they are factory team shocks I found that they have some type of coating on the threads that was causing mine to leak. Took me alot of time with an awl to get it removed. Now no leaking. If they are stockers I never had a problem with leakage.
What is the advantage of the FT bodies? Is it really worth it?
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
What is the advantage of the FT bodies? Is it really worth it?
It's a polished hardened Alum. It doesn't rub the smooth coating off the shock like the blues. If you could look into your blues, the smooth coating is into the silver alum causing friction.

New Stock to New FT? Not a huge difference.
Old Stock to Old FT? The coating will still be on the FT far into the life of the truck.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:11 PM
  #13461  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
What is the advantage of the FT bodies? Is it really worth it?
They are so worth it. The shocks are much smoother, even compared to factory fresh stockers, and the coating lasts so much longer like coyote said. Its one of the worth wile upgrades for this truck in my mind.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:15 PM
  #13462  
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another question about exotek chassis.

Is anybody using the B44 battery setup ?
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:02 PM
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Default Castle 1415 Install Guide


58t Spur / 22t Pinion: This gearing allows this 1415 motor which is designed for 3S and 4S to be ran on a 2S happily. There are other spurs from a RC10GT that are smaller that can help with gearing on this Motor. (thanks T-bird)


These red areas do not allow the Big ass motor to sit flat.


I'm sorry for the shitty Dremeling. I did this the night I got the Truck so long ago (7 months?) and haven't bought a new chassis to do this grind cleanly.







And there you have it. 1415 Absurd power on 2S I keep up with Losi Mamba Monsters and run ice cold. I 'adore' this motor. It's so hard to even think about getting another sensored upgrade motor.

(If you quote this, Try to break the links first so we don't Rape the Thread with so many images. )
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:23 PM
  #13464  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
58t Spur / 22t Pinion: This gearing allows this 1415 motor which is designed for 3S and 4S to be ran on a 2S happily. There are other spurs from a RC10GT that are smaller that can help with gearing on this Motor. (thanks T-bird)


These red areas do not allow the Big ass motor to sit flat.


I'm sorry for the shitty Dremeling. I did this the night I got the Truck so long ago (7 months?) and haven't bought a new chassis to do this grind cleanly.






And there you have it. 1415 Absurd power on 2S I keep up with Losi Mamba Monsters and run ice cold. I 'adore' this motor. It's so hard to even think about getting another sensored upgrade motor.

(If you quote this, Try to break the links first so we don't Rape the Thread with so many images. )
Yup that is the same thing I did. But I got to happy with the dremel and made the chassis so thin that a pencil could poke through the chassis. Nothing a little CA cant fix

I see you are running the top deck how do you like it? Did you notice any changes in how the truck handled?

Last edited by Chad Smith; 12-29-2011 at 08:30 PM. Reason: Took the pics out.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:23 PM
  #13465  
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Oh. And Coyotetech Chassis Braces are a little delayed everyone. I ran out of Carbon tube at the shop and I'm ordering more. Will all be out Monday morning! I promise!
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:39 PM
  #13466  
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Hey guys,
I'm thinking of buying myself one of these trucks. I'm fairly inexperienced with these and AE products and have a couple questions.

1. What is the most common motor size/Kv used? I'd prefer Tekin..
2. Are there any immediate upgrades needed?
3. Will an MMP work fine?
4. Are there different sizes of front and rear wheels?
5. How is the build.. Any things to look out for?

Thanks in advance!


Thanks Evil Genuis jr!

Anyone else have advice? Which kv Tekin should I get?
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:46 PM
  #13467  
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Originally Posted by tom2tone
Thanks Evil Genuis jr!

Anyone else have advice? Which kv Tekin should I get?
If you are going to go with the tekin 4 pole get the 4000kv. I have never ran a pro 4 but run tekins 5.5 2 pole motor and love it. Many people have said that this truck is to light for the powerfull 4600kv so the 4000 is a happy meduim.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:50 PM
  #13468  
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my trucks in the mail . iam going to read the frist page and thats all
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vito
my trucks in the mail . iam going to read the frist page and thats all
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:05 PM
  #13470  
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i have the 4 Pole 3800 Kv castle in my sc10 4x4 i hope it does well at the track aginst a bunch of LOSI SCTE with huge mamba systems. where do i get that carbon fibe chassis brace from and how much>?
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