PLEEEASE DO!!

Alright. Tomorrow evening I will put up a:

-Full Picture tear down to get to the rear diff. (front is incredibly similar, i'm sure you'll figure it out. )
-Real time Video of a tear down 'to' the diff in around 5 minutes. (I'm not going to practice and hit the 5minutes so if someone complains it's 5:45. I'll light you on fire. )

heh. See ya tomorrow evening!

I am not running a basket it is box stock and all the covers are on . I will put some tape over the hole on the motor plate and try that like jsamarin said.

does company make a 32 pitch pinion to fit a 3mm shaft hole ? or do they only make them in 5mm ?

Traxxas and Robinson racing do.

thank you very much

Yea, that's what I was telling one of my buddies that was thinking about a 4x4 sct. Said that the AE is like a M16 and the Losi is like an AK. One is more precise and complex, the other a is more tolerant and easier to work on.

The part that takes me the longest is remembering which screw goes where, and end up having to take it back apart a few times to get the screws in the right place. I want to find some good paint that will stick to the screws and color code both the truck and screws. Any suggestions on the best kind of paint? I was thinking nail polish may work since it's supposed to be tough so it doesn't chip on your nails (or so i've heard)

I am using them, and the hard annodized idler gear. Besides the intiial problem I posed in my pictoral review 2 weeks ago, they have been great, but not perfect. There is a sight design flaw in how one half of one of the case is made. There is a recess where the sun gear shim sits. The recess is deaper than the shim is thick, and the recess/pocket is only slightyly larger than the shim. So,the sin gear rides against the inside of the case, and when it wears in the gear mesh inside changes. All you have to d is double shim that side under the sungear.

Have you read up on ackerman? It is worthwhile. Basically, ackerman adjustment determines how much both wheels turn then the stearing turns. You will notice tht this particuar truck, which has less ackerman, that the inside tire turns significantly sharper than the outside tire. This is what gives the truck so much steering, and is what also makes it twitchy. By increasing the ackerman, i.e. manits's ackerman bar(the extra holes) you can decrease the extreme turning radius of the inside tire. Which should make the truck less twitchy in the steering department. Also, if you re like most people I have seen runnin their sc10 4x4, you have your d/r set around 80%, now you will be able to get full stearing i.e. 100% d/r with out the twitchyness.

more ackerman= less steering less twitchyness
less ackerman= more steering, more twitchyness

If I am wrong in any way, plese correct me.

Sorry already addressed.

Silver sharpies FTW.

That's not exactly right, in a nutshell, more ackerman makes the car easier to drive, in short because it induces tire scrub via adding additional articulation to the inside tire.

Historically, ackerman was used on real life street cars so they were easier to parallel park. It has some utility in a race car (particularly on on super tight 'point and shoot' type tracks with a lot of switchback 180s) because it effectively makes the inside tire work harder.

Twenty years ago, I had a Losi LXT. At my local track, a guy I raced with just pwned me into the stone age with his RC10T (all tight switchbacks), won almost every race. Every time we'd go to a big race at The Ranch Pitstop (a big wide open flowing track) I would almost always qualify in the top three and he'd be in the B. The biggest difference between our trucks? Yep, ackerman, the Losi had none, the AE had a bunch. If I knew now what I knew then, I'd have put AE steering on my Losi for my local track. Irony is now that's flipped.

I think the easiest way to think about using ackerman for a tuning tool is how they handle it on indycar chassis.

If you run at a high speed track with a ton of sweeping wide open corners (ovals), you might elect to run less ackerman. If you run a slower class in a high bite situation (ie 17.5 1s spec truck on carpet), additional ackerman makes the truck easier to drive, but slows lap times because it trades off being easier to drive for tire scrub.


If you run on a track where you have to use lock to lock steering on many corners (a street course), you might want more ackerman to try to help the car pivot in the middle of the corner. Scrubing the tires actually helps you in that spot.

If you're in between, well, you got something to play with that makes an difference to driver feel.

I purchased a barely used SC10 4x4 with sway bars, slipper basket, and FT hexes. I am really happy with this truck so far. The guy I purchased from said the fluids were the stock ones in the kit. Can someone let me know what the stock diff and shock fluids are? Any recommendations on using any different fluids over stock would also be appreciated. Also any info on what slipper pads I should run with the slipper basket?

Stock oil in the shocks are. 30 weight in front and 25 in rear. I would reccomend 30 upfront but going up to 27.5 in the rear. And stock diff oil is 3000 weight front and rear. Go up to 5 or 7k in the rear and 20-30k in the front diff.

I think it depends on when you got it. My truck came with 5K on both ends, I think. The new .pdf manual on the AE site says 20k front, 5k rear. I run 30k/5k. I have ran as high as 60K in the front, but took it out because some users reported breaking CVA's with it that heavy.

If you are going to run the topshaft unpinned, I recommend a standard pad inside the bucket, and HD pads against the slipper plate to start. Users seem to prefer overdrive on the front with the decoupled slipper, so that's something else to try.