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Old 11-09-2011 | 08:01 AM
  #10561  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Stock oil in the shocks are. 30 weight in front and 25 in rear. I would reccomend 30 upfront but going up to 27.5 in the rear. And stock diff oil is 3000 weight front and rear. Go up to 5 or 7k in the rear and 20-30k in the front diff.
Thanks for your quick reply. Can you provide some info on what changing the diff fluids to your recommendations does? I'm new to using diff fluid. I just started running a Mugen MBX6 with 7-7-5 in the diffs, so I understand a little.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 08:06 AM
  #10562  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I think it depends on when you got it. My truck came with 5K on both ends, I think. The new .pdf manual on the AE site says 20k front, 5k rear. I run 30k/5k. I have ran as high as 60K in the front, but took it out because some users reported breaking CVA's with it that heavy.

If you are going to run the topshaft unpinned, I recommend a standard pad inside the bucket, and HD pads against the slipper plate to start. Users seem to prefer overdrive on the front with the decoupled slipper, so that's something else to try.
Great info, I have been trying to keep up with this thread, but with over 10,000 posts it's difficult. Can you explain "overdrive on the front with decoupled slipper"?
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Old 11-09-2011 | 08:15 AM
  #10563  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
Great info, I have been trying to keep up with this thread, but with over 10,000 posts it's difficult. Can you explain "overdrive on the front with decoupled slipper"?
19 tooth pulley on the front is referred to as overdrive, since the front wheels turn a bit faster.

Decoupled slipper is the normal slipper, a pinned or coupled slipper is one that has the inside plate (front wheels) keyed to the topshaft like the outer plate (rear wheels).
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Old 11-09-2011 | 08:26 AM
  #10564  
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Originally Posted by Botwoon
19 tooth pulley on the front is referred to as overdrive, since the front wheels turn a bit faster.

Decoupled slipper is the normal slipper, a pinned or coupled slipper is one that has the inside plate (front wheels) keyed to the topshaft like the outer plate (rear wheels).
Thank you
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Old 11-09-2011 | 08:48 AM
  #10565  
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Finally got my truck back together. A few test launches in the back driveway verified that there was no more clicking noises from the rear end. Yea! I can't say for sure what the cure was because I replaced the belt, front and rear belt pulleys, idler gear, front clicker and shimmed the planet gear. Oh well it's fixed so thanks everyone for all your help.

Now my truck is newly pinned and I was wondering is someone could give me a basic setup for this. I have gone back 3 weeks in the posts but that's 100 pages to sift thru. Just a few questions.
1. How tight is the slipper set if running MTK clutch basket? Nut flush, etc?
2. Is the clicker set at 2mm clicker, 3mm locked or fully locked down for full 4x4?
3. What size belt pulleys 19t or 20t?
4. I do recall reading diff oil suggestion at 10k front and 5k rear. Is this correct?

Any tips to give me a good starting point would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 09:27 AM
  #10566  
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Originally Posted by jamr1130
1. How tight is the slipper set if running MTK clutch basket? Nut flush, etc?
Nut flush.

2. Is the clicker set at 2mm clicker, 3mm locked or fully locked down for full 4x4?
Fully locked down. I CA'd mine together (so it couldn't accidentally loosen) because IMO there is no place for a one way on a six pound truck on dirt where you need the brakes.

3. What size belt pulleys 19t or 20t?
19T front is overdrive (hot ticket decoupled), 20t front is standard 1:1 (hot ticket pinned). Always run the 20 in the rear.

4. I do recall reading diff oil suggestion at 10k front and 5k rear. Is this correct?
No. Run 30K in the front to start.

Any tips to give me a good starting point would be appreciated. Thanks.
I think this is a great place to start.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Nut flush.



Fully locked down. I CA'd mine together (so it couldn't accidentally loosen) because IMO there is no place for a one way on a six pound truck on dirt where you need the brakes.



19T front is overdrive (hot ticket decoupled), 20t front is standard 1:1 (hot ticket pinned). Always run the 20 in the rear.



No. Run 30K in the front to start.



I think this is a great place to start.
Thanks CraigMBA for the quick response and taking time answer my questions. I have that first post with general setup info printed out and at my work bench. This along with the AE manual is my Chilton/Hayes for this truck.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 09:52 AM
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CraigMBA I just want to verify that these setting you suggest are for pinned coupled slipper. I have already been running this truck for the past 3 month with the MTK basket and that was a huge improvement over stock. But I want to try this pinned mod.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 10:10 AM
  #10569  
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Default Diff fluids

What is the performance difference between running the stock 5K fluids and say 20k front and 5K rear?
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Old 11-09-2011 | 10:25 AM
  #10570  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
What is the performance difference between running the stock 5K fluids and say 20k front and 5K rear?
Thicker front fluid will make the truck easier to drive. Also less wheel spin. (correct me if i am wrong).
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Old 11-09-2011 | 11:26 AM
  #10571  
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Originally Posted by bohdi
Sorry already addressed.
Excuse me?
------

Heading to work. Will get on the Diff tear-out this evening for people who care.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 11:31 AM
  #10572  
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Originally Posted by jamr1130
CraigMBA I just want to verify that these setting you suggest are for pinned coupled slipper. I have already been running this truck for the past 3 month with the MTK basket and that was a huge improvement over stock. But I want to try this pinned mod.
I set it the same way (pin or no pin) to start, assuming you are using AE pads. I run 3 HD pads pinned, and would change to a standard pad inside the bucket decoupled.

By all means, feel free to experiment!
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Old 11-09-2011 | 11:38 AM
  #10573  
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My new Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mah 65c-130c saddle pack just arrived. It looks to fit just fine in the truck with the B44.1 Lipo battery hold downs and a high mounted chassis brace. It took about 3 Weeks to arrive from Hobby King.

They are rated at 10c 51amps max charge rate. (Thanks Sofa King)
Voltage looked good while balance charging for the first time. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-img_20111108_210633.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img_20111108_210416.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img_20111108_210240.jpg  

Last edited by SS LS1; 11-09-2011 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 11-09-2011 | 12:01 PM
  #10574  
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
My new Turnigy Nano-Tech 5100mah 65c-130c saddle pack just arrived. It looks to fit just fine in the truck with the B4.1 Lipo battery hold downs and a high mounted chassis brace. It took about 3 Weeks to arrive from Hobby King.

They are rated at 10 amps max charge rate. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend.
Looks good. I wonder are they really 65C?
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Old 11-09-2011 | 12:03 PM
  #10575  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I set it the same way (pin or no pin) to start, assuming you are using AE pads. I run 3 HD pads pinned, and would change to a standard pad inside the bucket decoupled.

By all means, feel free to experiment!
Thanks alot. I just needed a base to start with and will tweak to my liking from there.
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