dont worry jeremy I told you already go with LRP and you will be fine...lol

LOL. Oh I think I found my solution for today B! A little thread lock dropped I'n ur tranny's should slow u down enough for me to catch you!!! You did leave your truck here ya know...:lol::ha:

lol that would be bad.... oh do me a favor please i can find my soldering iron tips, please check in my block box in the top section and see if they are there.

Thread moves fast....

Any shock positioning tips and fluids tips to stop truck from swaying.

Guys, if you haven't played with the clickers, I would highly recommend it. For me at least, it seems that when you lock it into full time 4WD config, it is more stable, less likely to spin out, but it would understeer, and more likely to traction roll.

Unclicking it will give it better turning at speed, as well as allowing me to take turns at higher speed without going into traction roll, at the expense of spin out. So I kept playing with it until I get the desired turn without the instability, and now the truck is awesome! Give it a try. It's much easier than changing diff oils or adding swaybars. It also makes this truck extremely tunable at the track on race days.

Guys, I havent gotten my SC10 4x4 yet, but is there any concensus on "weak points" that need to be addressed?

Also, could someone explain this "clicker" thing? Pics possibly too? :nod:

the clicker is a 1 way diff. on power u have 4wd, and off power u have 2wd and a clicking sound. make the truck turn as tight as a 2wd in the corners off power. most peaple have tightend them up to full 4wd cuz the truck turns great to begin with.

the only thing i notice when I had the clicker loose was it levels out in the air slower like a 2wd. but, the truck jumps alot flater than the other 4x4's out there so it don't take much.
I will be play with setups more tomarow and post what I find

Ouch... Shock shock
 

First club race at Carolina RC Complex in Easley SC last night (Hobby Connection).
First, my setup:
Diffs - 50k front, 3k rear
JR 9000s servo
Novak Havoc Pro SC ESC and Ballistic 550 4.5
Gens Ace 2S 5000mah 40C
JConcepts Bar Codes, gold front
Proline M3 Holeshots rear
Ran the clicker for practice pack and the two qualifiers, switched to 4wd for the main
All other settings on the truck were as per the manual.
I ran with an SC10 RTR body while I figure out paint.

The track is a red clay, a little bumpy, no big jumps, and stayed damp all night as we had humidity and stayed flirting with rain all night.

The SC10 4x4 ran very nicely.
As configured, with all electronics, battery, tires, body...ready-to-race - 6lb 2.2oz. I could definitely trim some weight by shortening wires, but I'm typically not that picky about it.

I put the Holeshots in the rear with the bar codes up front to help smooth out the steering for my driving style. I used to race 4wd buggy a bit and I loved to run with a front oneway, so I wanted to drive the SC that way.

I ran a solid second place through the qualifiers and the main, with my fast lap about a half second behind the local fast guy in his Losi.
I'm very happy with the setup so far and will continue to switch tires and fluids for more fine tuning.
The Novak ESC was 94* and the motor was 118* with ambient temperature of about 75* and humid, after the 7 minute main. Using the manual-recommended 12t pinion.

Now the bad news...
I did every modification and double-check available in this thread, except the shock piston screw. During the main, the screw backed out of the front left shock, the shaft popped out and busted off the bottom cap of the cartridge. It's part of the 91054 list and I don't see anywhere I can actually get that part for a few weeks...all on back/pre order until the end of May. Stupid mistake on my part for knowing about it and not checking, but it still sucks that these parts came preassembled for convenience and it's turning out LESS convenient as we have to disassemble them to reassemble them properly. Bah :)

So...if anyone knows where I can get 91054, that would be great :)

so it sounds like really thick fluid is needed in the front diff?

What ranges are people seeing work? Sounds like 50 - 60K?

looking for diff advise for those running on a loose track with 1/8 jumps.

my truck is amazing besides the horrible shock build :(
had to rebuild em all they where leakin :confused: wish they would have just gave a bag of parts and let us build em

truck jumps an drives like my 2wd ...its Awesome ... hoping the rain holds off for sundays race ...

Rob Landers

no kidding,i cant believe the wide spread of diff fluids being used.
i see that most set up sheets are running 10k (f) and 5k (r).

i havent got mine together as of yet.but did drive a friends with 5k (f) and 1k (r).
this truck is awesome.drives just like a 2wd with traction.

was gonna keep my 2 scte's.but now there for sale.

We have quite the field of Sc 4x4 attending this weekends N/w Gold Cup at TRCR .

Will give a report how the Ae 4x4 do .....

Think there is maybe 6 to 8 Ae's ready to battle....:cool:

How are the 540 can motors holding up? I plan on dropping a 4.5 novak velociti in with a havoc pro esc. I ordered 12-15 pinion gears. I called novak and they said" it will probably work, just check the heat every 2-3 laps and run 12t pinion until I see if it works or not, but the 550 is what they reccomend." I don't see why a 540 isn't enough, but my truck will be here tuesday and I will find out I guess.

Spareparts
 

What are the essential spare parts to have in the pit box guys? All I've ordered yet are the high torque slipper pads and steering/caster block set. I'm guessing at least:

• Arms front
• Arms rear
• Drive belt

Tips please?

If I'd stop reading this infernal thread, I'd prolly be able to build MY OWN...:D