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Originally Posted by RacerMike42
(Post 9103693)
I have the Pro Line protrac wheels and they have the same offset as the stock wheels
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Originally Posted by LosiSuperTruck
(Post 9105835)
What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
(Post 9105740)
I believe so, the hex adapter is on and there's still a good bit of movement. I'll need to throw a wheel on and see what happens but that just brings up another issue of having to mess with the pin every time I remove the wheels to make sure it's seated properly.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual. |
Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
(Post 9105905)
How is the fit? Someone else told me the jconcepts fit much better, the proline wheel is a little too thick. I'll try mine tonight.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut |
Originally Posted by LosiSuperTruck
(Post 9105835)
What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.
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Originally Posted by VegasHB
(Post 9105740)
I believe so, the hex adapter is on and there's still a good bit of movement. I'll need to throw a wheel on and see what happens but that just brings up another issue of having to mess with the pin every time I remove the wheels to make sure it's seated properly.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual. I posted about this about 2 days ago. Same issue, and yes my cvd pins came out. I had just put electronics I'n and was setting mesh and belt. I shimmed like crazy, but unneccesaily to fnd out. Once u put the hex's and wheels on tight, they are tight as well and o issues. However, I like mine really tight so when I have it on the bench and am working, like I was, they won't come off. So I ended up using 2 each rear 2 front. Still may add 1 n front tho. |
Originally Posted by VegasHB
(Post 9105510)
I'm a little worried about my CV joint pins on the rear coming out. The bearing is all that's holding them in and AE doesn't supply enough shims to properly keep the CV from pushing in to where the pin could come out.
Has anyone running the truck had an issue with the CV joint pins coming out? I guess I gotta find some shims to ease my mind. |
Originally Posted by RacerMike42
(Post 9105938)
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut |
Originally Posted by Keep'N It Cool
(Post 9105970)
The BLitz wheel nuts are a M4 nut as well and would probably work well on the thicker wheels since they don't use the nylon locking. They have a serrated back that keeps the nuts from backing out.
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
(Post 9105791)
You haven't "snapped" the hex all the way onto the pin. The play behind the hex to bearing should be .1-.2mm not very much at all.
If you have installed and tightened the wheels on and then remove you should see that this process will click them into place. Other wise you have to hold the driveshaft into the hub and push the hex on to snap it over the pin. :) |
Wheel Nuts for Pro-Line Wheels
Originally Posted by RacerMike42
(Post 9105938)
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut |
Originally Posted by RacerMike42
(Post 9105938)
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut |
I am running savox 1268 servo, MMP SCT system, Spektrum micro receiver, M11 with spektrum module not the pro. i know the savox is a high voltage servo. My problem is that it is glitchy and also effects the motor and esc. How do I eliminate this any help is appreciated. Also, I am running a 35C 5000mah 2S lipo.
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Sc10 4x4 motor pinion and pitch
I just got a sc10 and have the castle 1410 with the sidewinder. What is everyone using for pitch and gearing? I read the first page but wanted to know if anyone has tried this combo and if they smoked the esc and what gearing worked best. Thanks
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Originally Posted by tgpatrsn
(Post 9106104)
I just got a sc10 and have the castle 1410 with the sidewinder. What is everyone using for pitch and gearing? I read the first page but wanted to know if anyone has tried this combo and if they smoked the esc and what gearing worked best. Thanks
I used the 32pitch spur with a 13 tooth slash/Emaxx 32 pitch pinion . I havent raced it yet but it drives really good just bashing around with this set up . Rick |
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