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My setup so far...
This is my setup so far and I am very happy with the truck:
Front: Stock Shock Spring Stock Piston Emulsion Style 35 Wt Oil 2mm front Bar 15K Diff Oil Rear: Stock Shock Spring Stock Piston Emulsion Style 30 Wt Oil 2mm Rear Bar 5K Diff Oil Motor: Team Epic 4.5 Turn 550 Motor 13T Pinion (32 Pitch) The truck is amazing, it is very hooked up and turns in well. It actually drives much like a super hooked up 2WD truck. I am very happy with this setup as it jumps and lands very well. |
Originally Posted by drtdawg
(Post 9168446)
carpet belongs in your living room..... dirt is for racing..... and asphalt is for getting there.......:cool:
I really don't understand why somebody would make a purpose-built off-road track with carpet and wooden jumps rather than dirt. At least I have something though, so I can't compplain too much. Where I am there are two indoor carpet off road tracks within 5 minutes of each other. Craig |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 9168398)
For those who have used there trucks on carpet, are the stock tires any good there?
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Originally Posted by FlyByWire
(Post 9168977)
Aside from sending a (too long) shock tower screw through the front idler gear, this has been a pretty good build. :lol: Need to sort my screws better.
Cant wait to run it. I think this truck has every size from 6 to 18mm long on it. |
Originally Posted by CraigV
(Post 9169120)
The stock tires on my SC10 2wd worked great on carpet. Excellent foreward but and loose enough to slide nicely around the corners. I could probably use better tires on the front though as it pushed a lot under power.
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9169135)
Yeah someone should have gave the R&D department a 3mmx10mm bolt and said to make it all work with this. :lol:
I think this truck has every size from 6 to 18mm long on it. |
Originally Posted by Vegatron75
(Post 9168644)
How many posts does it take to figure out the dang clicker? The manual makes it pretty clear, so I thought.
Jeez, What's next? How to remove double sided tape? |
No matter what I do, shim and sand pads use ht pads and etc.. this things slips way to much. :flaming: Its got to be a weak spring or something I'm going to pin it.
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belt tensioner
I think the instruction manual has the belt tensioner settings reversed. Says to use the middle position for the back and 2nd to the most loose for the front. With that setup the belt was touching the upper belt cover in the front. I reversed them and moved the tensioner to the 2nd loose for the rear and middle for the front and getting no rubbing from the belt cover.
Also, someone did mention way way back that there is one 3/8 nut, I found this to be true as well. |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 9170087)
No matter what I do, shim and sand pads use ht pads and etc.. this things slips way to much. :flaming: Its got to be a weak spring or something I'm going to pin it.
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 9170359)
Seems the slipper spring is almost completely compressed on mine for it not to slip much. I don't have the high torque pad yet though.
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Originally Posted by alexkenison
(Post 9168987)
has anyone tried running a tekin 540 motor with the 14mm hi torque rotor in it?
jb |
The silver thrust washer was machined wrong. For most of you having problems this is probably it. I had to shim mine to make it work.
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Originally Posted by JoeC
(Post 9170687)
The silver thrust washer was machined wrong. For most of you having problems this is probably it. I had to shim mine to make it work.
I used to crank bolt down 4mm now that its shimmed i can only crank it down 3.25 mm but its the same slipping. the shims just move everything I really think its 550power > slipper pads now i can finsih a race and place decent but i fight with it because it has no snap like the center diff trucks. and then when im done my slipper temps at 167 |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 9170663)
Yea i tightened it down all the way. it slips enough for me not to have any snap out of a corner something the center diff trucks seem to have alot of.
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