Does anyone have any pictures of their build?

Kinda off topic but lhs owner said novak is releasing a new sct motor platform at the end of the month can anyone verify this at all?

I'm starting with a 15, but a 16 would be the equivalent to what I was running in my old scrt10 as far as an fdr goes.

They are releasing the ballistic 550's with 14mm rotors standard. Nothing really major if this is what he was referring to.

Yep they have a picture of it on the front page of their website

what lipo would you guys advise to me.
I have a hardcase zippy 2s2p 5200mah 30C and is doing great in my slash 4x4 with a MMP + novak HV 4.5T

would it be enough for my sc10 4x4 with a MMP + 1410 4 pole ?

I also have IP 5600 50C hardcase but I dont like those. I think the zippy is better quality then IP ( intellect )

what would you recommend. not to expensive please..

ps. longest mains I run are 8 minutes


http://i56.tinypic.com/2akfdx4.jpg
will this fit the battery tray because the wires come out the middle, the size is not the problem, but what about the location of the wires in the middle ??

Maybe Novak is releasing a 550 motor that does not spin the rotor magnet
on the shaft in the middle of a race? That would be a big improvement"

I've spun 3 and between all my race buddies they have spun dozens of
them and Novak says theres no problem with their motors... :rolleyes:

You would think you would learn after the first couple :lol:

Nah. Lets buy more!

Okay he really didn't know much about it after I asked..

You are 100% correct there being I run Tekin eveything in all my R/C. The
problem is the Tekin 4.5 is so smooth it does not work well in my Losi SCTE
the Novak works better ( more torque ) so now we are using Loctite 609 to
fix them better then Novak did them in the first place. The Tekin 4.5 works
great in my SC10 4x4 with it's nice smooth power delivery. ;)

I'll be running a novak 550 14mm setup . will report on how it goes.

As for batteries, I like what I have heard about the IP stuff, so I went with the 6200mah version they sell. Also got the 50C gens ace here too.

i run the exact same zippy battery ..it fits great !!

Another guy on this thread recommended the Gens Ace 5000 mAh 40C 2S hard case. I bought 3 from hobbypartz.com and they fit the tray like they were made for it. Nearly the same size as my 3600 zippy's, roar approved hard case, and came fast and perfectly balanced. The main thing I like about using those on this truck is the wire can 'straddle' the belt - plugging one terminal in on each side. And only ~$10 more than a zippy - if you can catch them in stock.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/gensace2s40c.html

Hey guys, here are some build and race tips that myself and some guys here at the office have come up with. Some of this stuff is in the manual and some of it isn't. If it's in the manual, we just put it in because it's extra important.

Build Tips
1. Make sure to use Factory Team thread lock, #1596, on your servo horn screw.
2. If using an XP Digital servo, use the servo horn labeled (F).
3. Make sure to apply a small amount of black grease, #6588, on the servo saver halves, page #7, before building the servo saver.
4. Use a bit of Green Slime, #1105, on the 91005 paper diff seal to help prevent fluid leakage from the differentials.
5. Be sure to add 1 ball stud washer, #9630, on each of the M3x26 and M3x24 transmission case screw, page #13.
6. The screws for the rear transmission case, #89226 (M3x26) and #89225 (M3x24), do not have to be completely tightened down. They just have to be snug enough to hold the motor plate. Over tightening can cause drag in the drive train. Be sure to use Factory Team thread lock #1596 before installing the screws as well!
7. When assembling the clicker assembly page #11, apply a drop of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to the nylon on the adjustment nut this will help to prevent the nut from backing off. Also use a small amount of black grease #6588 on the clicker teeth to keep it quiet.
8. Use a very small dab of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to hold the threaded ball stud inserts, #91021, into the shock towers.
9. Be extra careful to use the correct screws to hold on the front hinge pin brace! Double check that they are 10mm long ones, #25620 Page 18, and not 12mm in the rest of that part of the build. Using too long of screws can cause the front transmission to bind.
10. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596 on the inner ball studs pages 14 & 15. This will help prevent them from loosening up while running.
11. Use a very-very small drop of Factory Team tire glue #1597 on the wheel hex pins #91027 shown on page 16 & 20. This helps keep the pins in the axles when you remove the wheels or remove the hexes.
12. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596, to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off.

Race Tips
1. Remove the upper X-Ring, #91055, this will free up the shocks and takes a lot of the stiction away and the shocks will feel much smoother. Don’t forget that the shock cartridge seal tube is directional!
2. Use our high-torque slipper pad, #91170, on the outer slipper hub only; refer to page 28, when using 550 motors.
3. If you are running without shock boots, #91070, on the shocks, you must add up travel limiters to avoid damaging the bladder.
4. When running bladders, you can remove the bleeder screw to reduce the air-spring effect caused by the air being trapped above the bladder.
5. Adding thread lock, #1596, will help the wheels nuts from backing off during operation.

Thanks Chris that actually answered a lot of questions I have not asked yet. :lol: I had a lot of questions about the new shocks, that seem to take care of them.

If you remove one X-ring to you need to use a spacer in its place?

front diff weight
 

Guys - I dropped in 50K kyosho diff (shop didn't have 60K) just as Chris Jarosz recommends in his set up.

This is really really tight. Feels like sticky glue on my fingers.

Has anyone tried this type of weight?????