Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg (Post 9106790)

Thanks Chris that actually answered a lot of questions I have not asked yet. :lol: I had a lot of questions about the new shocks, that seem to take care of them.

If you remove one X-ring to you need to use a spacer in its place?

Originally Posted by yappster (Post 9106801)

Guys - I dropped in 50K kyosho diff (shop didn't have 60K) just as Chris Jarosz recommends in his set up.

This is really really tight. Feels like sticky glue on my fingers.

Has anyone tried this type of weight?????

Originally Posted by tgpatrsn (Post 9106104)

I just got a sc10 and have the castle 1410 with the sidewinder. What is everyone using for pitch and gearing? I read the first page but wanted to know if anyone has tried this combo and if they smoked the esc and what gearing worked best. Thanks

Originally Posted by 1fastslash (Post 9106122)

I used the 32pitch spur with a 13 tooth slash/Emaxx 32 pitch pinion . I havent raced it yet but it drives really good just bashing around with this set up . Rick

Originally Posted by Chris Jarosz (Post 9106723)

Hey guys, here are some build and race tips that myself and some guys here at the office have come up with. Some of this stuff is in the manual and some of it isn't. If it's in the manual, we just put it in because it's extra important.

Build Tips
1. Make sure to use Factory Team thread lock, #1596, on your servo horn screw.
2. If using an XP Digital servo, use the servo horn labeled (F).
3. Make sure to apply a small amount of black grease, #6588, on the servo saver halves, page #7, before building the servo saver.
4. Use a bit of Green Slime, #1105, on the 91005 paper diff seal to help prevent fluid leakage from the differentials.
5. Be sure to add 1 ball stud washer, #9630, on each of the M3x26 and M3x24 transmission case screw, page #13.
6. The screws for the rear transmission case, #89226 (M3x26) and #89225 (M3x24), do not have to be completely tightened down. They just have to be snug enough to hold the motor plate. Over tightening can cause drag in the drive train. Be sure to use Factory Team thread lock #1596 before installing the screws as well!
7. When assembling the clicker assembly page #11, apply a drop of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to the nylon on the adjustment nut this will help to prevent the nut from backing off. Also use a small amount of black grease #6588 on the clicker teeth to keep it quiet.
8. Use a very small dab of Factory Team Tire glue, #1597, to hold the threaded ball stud inserts, #91021, into the shock towers.
9. Be extra careful to use the correct screws to hold on the front hinge pin brace! Double check that they are 10mm long ones, #25620 Page 18, and not 12mm in the rest of that part of the build. Using too long of screws can cause the front transmission to bind.
10. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596 on the inner ball studs pages 14 & 15. This will help prevent them from loosening up while running.
11. Use a very-very small drop of Factory Team tire glue #1597 on the wheel hex pins #91027 shown on page 16 & 20. This helps keep the pins in the axles when you remove the wheels or remove the hexes.
12. Make sure to apply some Factory Team thread lock #1596, to the shock piston screw. Doing so will help prevent the piston from falling off.

Race Tips
1. Remove the upper X-Ring, #91055, this will free up the shocks and takes a lot of the stiction away and the shocks will feel much smoother. Don’t forget that the shock cartridge seal tube is directional!
2. Use our high-torque slipper pad, #91170, on the outer slipper hub only; refer to page 28, when using 550 motors.
3. If you are running without shock boots, #91070, on the shocks, you must add up travel limiters to avoid damaging the bladder.
4. When running bladders, you can remove the bleeder screw to reduce the air-spring effect caused by the air being trapped above the bladder.
5. Adding thread lock, #1596, will help the wheels nuts from backing off during operation.

Originally Posted by RacerMike42 (Post 9106173)

Originally Posted by Maybell View Post
Traxxas nuts #1747R should work great in this case.

thanks for the info on the wheel nuts guys. I am headed out in a bit to my LHS to find some.

Originally Posted by Jstall7543 (Post 9106188)

I always loc-tight the FT aluminum nyloc's but the serated style bolts work better to keep the wheels on but they are heavier, the traxxas nuts were steel last time I had some. Lol, maybe 1/2g or so but it adds up!