|
Originally Posted by Manatarms25
(Post 9629625)
Cool Thanks guys, I do plan on sticking with 540 motors so maybe I will try 48 pitch 1st. Since I have all the pinions already.
I have a couple different motor options to try :lol: Hopefully I do not have to take the 550 plunge, most tracks here I will run on are indoor and a tighter layout. Do you guys carry extra belts with you at the track ? I will order up a clicker assembly and maybe the basics. |
Got my new Hazard wheels from JC today. I can't wait to get them out on the track. I need to do a little body trim on the front. Back wheel sits right at fender now instead of being tucked inside.
|
Originally Posted by Manatarms25
(Post 9628732)
Been reading the thread for the last couple nights Great Front page BTW :)
I just picked up a used sc10 4x4 and will be installing a new Xerun 2.1 120a with either a 5.5 (540) tekin or a 1410 castle motor. Would you guys recommend 32 pitch for indoor clay or is the 48 pitch ok ? With the 1410 at least Also what spares are common to keep in your pit box.. I got to get a Amain order coming :D Thanks everyone 14/62 32p to start with on the 1410's gearing, go from there. If it runs cool, gear up. if it runs hot, gear down. |
Originally Posted by ITS ME DAVID
(Post 9629420)
Then your gear mesh wasn't correct I'm usig the 3800 cc sct and 21/93 48p and have about 60 laps maybe more and my clutch and spur are in great shape I check then after every race or practice day.
|
Originally Posted by Sq0nk
(Post 9629538)
In reviewing the chassis setup posts here I started to wonder how temperature comes into play when it comes to shock oil. Here in Phoenix it's pretty common to run in 100+ (many nights over 110). I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the heat and what kind of weights they run.
For example would an 80 degree setup of 35/30 f/r need something like 40/35 or even higher for 100+ temps? Obviously an overly simplified scenario in this case. Perhaps temps do not have much of an impact on the oil...I really don't know. |
Then something is a problem then maybe slipper to tight and too much shock which is causing the stripped spur I mean I'm good after 60+ laps but I'm not a heavy driver.
|
Originally Posted by Aoh
(Post 9630032)
20 years in this hobby, im pretty sure i can set my mesh.
|
I don't have any issues with 48 pitch gears. :cool:
|
Problems?
Other than scuffing and or replacing slipper pads and tightening the clicker, taking care of this truck is a no brainer. The only parts that have actually broken was a front CVA and that was catastrophic. Even then, I just rebuilt it. Set it up right the first time. Do the maintenance, make adjustments as needed. Tuesday night, the difference between not having or having rear traction was a 1 degree change in rear camber. No problems. |
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals? 2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'... |
Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
(Post 9631851)
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals? 2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'... 1: try using LESS oil in the diff. 2: Take brake out. example: I run 35% brake. |
Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
(Post 9631851)
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals? 2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'... |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 9628133)
I think alot of trucks would be loose with that motor!
my packs are down the middle and im adding weight on the back of the packs. which would be the front of your packs. 1.5oz to be exact. |
Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
(Post 9632053)
1: try using LESS oil in the diff.
2: Take brake out. example: I run 35% brake. 2. I'm at 85% so less could be the answer, but now I don't even use the brakes just let it coast after the front straight let the drag brake do the work. I think the jumps are causing the poppin'... too much chassis flex. |
my front belt twisted yesterday after an awkward landing off of some big doubles so a chassis brace is needed for sure.
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:46 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.