I run at Newred's almost every wen and sat. Will be doing some traveling to shiverville and other tracks soon also.

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Not stupid , VTS slipper also fits the Sc10 2w drive & B4.1 .

Reason for no part # change is they no longer make the old cover & the new cover takes it place....


Just clean your pads if glazed .
If your glazing the ft drive pad prematurely you may have not assemble correctly..

Seen it happen;)

I haven't had a chance to drive the new slipper yet, I mean the one on the other side of the spur gear.
Making the new cover and dropping the old is fine and all, but not if you end up getting the old cover cause online shops still have old stock.

replaces.

I found that 1 stock washer under each (0.2mm each) had lots of wobble.
2 stock washers under each (0.4mm each) was too much and there was a lot fo parasitic drag.
1 under one side, and 2 under the other was decent (0.2mm+0.4mm) but I don't like shimming one side more than the other, just as a general practice.

the Xray shims are 0.3mm, so I can use one on each side PLUS with them being 15mm OD instead of the 11.5 that the stock washers are, there is a LOT more metal there to resist bending/wobbling.

I'm eventually going to try the bearing mod, but until these diff cases wear out, this is doing great for me.

I agree, a new part number would be better. As you said, most shops still have the old part so you won't get the new cover.
Same thing with the new rear shock tower thats beefd up for the brace. Associated said to order from them to make sure your getting the new part that has the same part number as the old one.

Thanx for posting that xray link, bookmarked and ordering on Monday.

So far so good with my rear diff, been a couple months of driving and no wobble since I limited up travel with the clips. I guess the diff mod with the extra bearing would be a benefit, but I haven't had any issues since adding clips to the shock shafts.

Any reason my diff fluid would be very dirty even after only a couple of packs of running?

I cut mine out with an 1 1/2" hole saw.

That's parts of your sun gears and planetary gears floating around in the oil...

Really? All the gears seam fine, time for a rebuild kit!

Evil, the fluid tends to look like that nearly immediately after running. Back when I ran truggy and my teammate ran buggy, we saw it first hand after rebuilding diffs between rounds at bigger races. Sometimes with only one run the fluid would turn gray. As long as your gears look good just replace the fluid.

Thanks!

Why is gluing the clicker to the pulley bad advice? Nobody ever uses the clicker, if you make it solid it's one less thing to have a problem.

I don't disagree with you that you should just lock it down; but I've seen too many of them back off and (at a minimum) wreck a guys round (most recently, last night Oasis missed his main because he had a clicker problem), while mine will never fail that way because I put a drop of CA in the area where the clicker teeth meet the pulley.

The fastener (nut) that holds it down is a nylock. If it backs off, the fastener is wasted. The whole reason to use a nylock is so you DON'T have to glue it down with Loctite. I don't think I've ever changed out a cogged belt driven pulley for wear ever. The downside to my method is you have to buy a second pulley/clicker if you want to switch to back overdrive from standard or vise versa.

Certainly users are free to disagree, but I think it's a small price to pay for the insurance it provides since mine can never back off and fail. Personally, I need all the variance reducers (parts that can't fail) I can get. I got hit head on last night while leading 2w SC on the last lap on the fastest straight because somebody got it all wrong in the infield quad. Finished second on three wheels, took the left front clean off. Second race in a row where that happened to me (last one happened on the first lap) and cost me a win.

Now that I think about it, I had a nylock fail on the front wheel of my SC10 2w the second qualifier last race, and lost a tire.

I just replaced both pulleys due to wear and it was $6. The bag with the clicker, tensioner pulleys, and gear pulleys is $12. 1 drop of loctite has worked just as well for me instead of glueing. I loctite almost everything even if it has a nylock. Old habit from desert racing open class motorcycles. I was just stating what I prefer to do since I already waste too much money on this hobby and don't want to throw away more than I have to. Glue it if you want but there are other options just as good.

I have a quick question. Are y'all screwing the clicker nut all the way down until it bottoms out and completely compresses the spring? Or,, Are y'all screwing it down 3mm like the manual says?